662 JUr. R A 
ned by three Forts. We faw here, among other Things, 
the Colle6lion of Rarities of an Apothecary, one Md~ 
"pheus Cufanus, confifting of many Idols, pe- 
trified Shells, Coins and Medals, and among the laii, 
a Maximilian and Dioclefian, with this Infcriptioh on the 
Reverfe, Verona Amphitheatrum. 
Another we faw of Mufcardo, a Gentleman of Ve- 
rona, who had Abundance of Lachrymal Urns and 
Lamps, Shells and Fruits petrified, Ores and Gems, 
but efpecially of Roman Medals, among which he 
Ihewed us an Otho of Gold, telling us at the fame Time, 
that thofe of Brafs were all fpurious. But a Defcrip- 
tion of this Colledion being already publiihed in Itali- 
an, I will not infift upon the further Particulars thereof, 
or of the Mufaum of Mario Sala, an Apothecary here, 
which contains only certain Remnants of the Colledion 
of Calceolarius, publiihed long ago. 
The Amphitheatre of Verona is a Stru6lure worth a 
curious Traveller’s Obfervation, being both (lately and 
fpacious, and in outward Appearance, not inferior for 
Beauty or Capacioufnefs to that of Hitus at Rome. Of 
the outward Wall is left only a fmall Piece, from whence 
you may make an Eftimate of the whole. But the Re- 
mainder of the other Buildings is kept in very good 
Repair *, the Arena being thirty four Perches (each of 
which is fomething more than fix Foot) long, and twen- 
ty two and an half broad, furrounded by forty two 
Rows of Stones Benches, raifed above one another in 
the Nature of Steps, capable of containing twenty three 
thoufand Perfons. For the more am.ple Defcription of 
which, I will refer my felf to Schottus, Horellus Saraina, 
and Lipfms. This City, as well as Padua and Vicenza, 
after many Changes of Government, was at laft forced 
to fubmit to the Venetians. Here are excellent White- 
wines, efpecially that they call Garganico. The Air 
is very ferene and healthy, but (harp in the Winter, 
from the Vicinity of the Mountains, among which Bal- 
dus, has got the greateft Reputation, not lb much for 
the Variety of the Simples that grow there (for the 
Alps are not inferior in that Pointj but chiefly by the 
Induftry of the Paduan Herbalills, who, but efpecially 
John Pona, an Apothecary here, have, in Refpeft to 
them, obliged the World with a perfeft Catalogue. 
Near Verona is the Lake Lago di Garda, [Lacus Bena- 
cus) which affords great (^amities of Filh, but ef- 
pecially Trouts, fome of which were a Foot long. 
9. We travelled from Verona to Mantua, February 
the 9th, being twenty four Miles, through feveral good 
Villages, but not any Towns of Note. Six Miles 
on this Side of Mantua, we faw the Duke’s Palace 
at Marmirola, a neat Stru6lure, and well furnifhed 
with Pidlures, and adorned with Statues : This 
City it felf is very ancient, and llrong by Situa- 
ation, being feated in the Middle of a Lake, and well 
fortified. It is about four Miles in Extent, but not 
populous in Proportion, containing fcarce fifty 
thoufand Souls *, it has no lefs than eight Gates. A 
little Way from this City is a Country Seat belonging 
to the Duke called Pelazzo del Te, wherein you fee a 
fquare Room, the Roof arched in the Nature of a 
Cupola, called the Gyants-hall, in which, if two Per- 
fons ftand in the oppofite Corners, one having his Ear 
to the Wall, may hear what the other whifpers, with 
his Face to the Corner ; which he that Hands in the 
Middle, or in the Corner of the fame Side of the Room, 
fliall not. They told us the Duke of Parma had fuch 
another Contrivance in his Palace of Caprarola, but 
our Whifpering-place in the Cathedral of Gloucefter, 
is of a different Nature. Virgil, the great Latin Poet, 
was born at Andes (now Petula) a Village near Mantua. 
Here are two Academies of Virtuoji, called the Acceji 
and Limidi. This City, after many Changes of Go- 
vernment, was at laft brought under Subjeftion in 1328, 
by Lewis Gongaza, by the Favour of the common Peo- 
ple, from whom the prefent Dukes defeended, this Ti- 
tle being conferred upon Frederick Gonzaga in 1530, by 
the Emperor Sigifmund IV. The Revenue of the Duke 
is about 400,000 Crowns a Year ; but as the Expences 
of the Dukes have exceeded their Incomes, they are 
much indebted to the Venetians. The common Peo- 
y’s Travels Book II. 
pie have this peculiar Cuftom, that their Children 
have an equal Share in their Parents Eftates, efpeci- 
ally fuch as are perfonal : A Widow, after the Death 
of her Husband, takes her Dowry back ; but if fhe 
dies firft, the fame is divided Share and Share alike 
among her Children : If fhe dies without IflTue, one 
half of her Dowry falls to her Husband, the other to 
her next Kin. If a Woman has Children by a former 
Husband, and marries another, and has likewife Chil- 
dren by him, one half of her Dowry goes to the Chil- 
dren of the firft Marriage, the other to thofe of the 
fecond. 
Taking Boat here for Ferrara, we palTed by the 
Way of the Lake into the Channel of the River Min- 
do, which coming out of the Lago di Garda, near a 
ftrong Fort of the V metians called Pefehierd, and 
coming to Mantua, fpreads itfelf into a Lake of five 
Miles in Length, and at fixteen Miles End, coming to 
a Bridge and Sluice at a Place called Governo, entred 
the River Po, and palling dovs/n the Stream, came by 
Ojiia, ten Miles from Governo, and ten Miles farther 
by MaJJd, both on the Left-hand, and feven Miles 
lower to Stellata, a large Village belonging to the Pope : 
Eight Miles lower we came to 11 Ponte, where leaving 
the Po, we paired through an artificial Channel of four 
Miles long to the very Gates of Ferrara, a City conli- 
derable both for its Bignefs and Strength, it being re- 
puted, for its Bignefs, the ftrongeft in all Italy, being 
not only defended by ftrong Fortifications, and a deep 
Ditch, but feated alfo in a fenny Plain. It was for- 
merly under the Dominion of its own Dukes, but how 
under the papal Jurifdidlion. From hence we went by 
Boats towards Bologna, and having Ihifted our Boat 
feventeen Miles from Ferrara, at a Place called Mal- 
Aihergo, reached another Channel, viz. Rhenus Bononi- 
enfis, and palTing through nine Locks, arrived at Bo- 
logna, diftant by Water from Ferrara forty five Miles, 
the greateft Part of the Country between thofe two Places 
being fenny, not unlike the Ille of Ely in England. 
The City of Bologna itfelf is feven or eight Miles in 
Circumference, of a rotund Figure, the Houfes not 
very lofty, but adorned with fair Portico’s, on each Side 
of them, to the Streets. Many of their Houfes, though 
not promifing much on the Out-fide, yet being very neat 
and convenient within : Its Inhabitants are computed 
to be eighty thoufand Souls. The Saufages, Walh- 
balls, and little Dogs of Bologna, are famous all over 
Italy and other Parts. Their chief Trade is in Silk, 
and they have the moll convenient Engines for wind- 
ing and twilling of it, that I ever faw. The Univer- 
fity of Bologna, for its Antiquity, may compare with 
any in Europe, being chiefly famous for the Study of 
the Law, though it has a great Number of ProfelTors 
alfo in other Faculties, as may be feen by their annual 
printed Catalogue of fuch Leftures, as each of them 
is to keep the following Year. Here we had the 
Opportunity of feeing the ancient Exercife of Tilt- 
ing, ftill pra6lifed here in the Carnaval Time : Thofe 
who enter the Lifts are mounted on Horfeback, and 
armed Cap-a-pee, adorned with Plumes and Scarfs, 
with Launces in their Hands, with which they run at 
one another a ,full Gallop, aiming at a particular Part 
of the Body ; he that hits neareft to it carrying the 
Prize. We faw feveral Launces broken, but no body 
was either hurt or difmounted. 
Dr. Ovidio Montalbano, one of the ProfelTors here, 
Ihewed us the Mufeeum of Aldrovandus, left as a Le- 
gacy to this City, and kept in the Cardinal Legate’s 
Palace. What delighted us moll, were ten Volumes 
of the Piblures of Plants, and fix more of Birds, Fifties, 
and other Beads, drawn in Water Colours. The fame 
Perfon alfo introduced us to Jacobus Zenoni, an Apo- 
thecary, and very curious Herbalift, who, among other 
Rarities, Ihewed us three Pieces of Rock Cryftal, 
with fome Drops of Water, enclofed in the Middle of 
them, as might plainly be difeovered by the Motion 
of the Cryftals. 
The fame Day we vifited the famous Chymift Gio- 
feppi Bucemi, who Ihew’d us the Effeeffs of the Phofpha- 
rus, a Compofition, which if expofed for fome time to 
the 
