68b Mr. Ray 
Wagtails, Grays, lie, Belides thefe before-mention’d, 
you may fee fometimes in the Poulterers Shops, Cranes, 
Wild-geefe, Shelldrakes, Auofetta^ Water-hens, Ber- 
ganders, and even fuch Birds as are not eaten in Eng- 
land, as Kites, Buzzards, Spar-hawks, Keftrels, Jays, 
Magpies and Wood-peckers. Neither are they in any 
Want of Sea or River Filh, though fold at a dearer 
Rate than Flefh : Of Frefh-water Filh, Pikcj Carp, 
Tench, Trout, Eels, Barbie, Chevin, and Dace, are 
the moft frequent ; I don’t remember I ever faw a 
Perch at Rome. Of Sea-fifh, they have the Mullus an- 
tiquorum, now ’Eriglia, called Rouge by the French, from 
its Colour ; in Cornwall we call them Surmullet : Spie- 
gole, or the Lupus marinus, a Fifh not known in Eng- 
land, Orate, Giltheads'; Cephali, the Mugil of the An- 
cients, we call it a Mullet in Englijh •, Sarde, or the Sprat *, 
Conger or Lamprey ; Sole, Plaife, and others of the 
flat Kind ; Merluzzo, we call them Hakes *, fometimes 
fmall Sturgeons, Dog-fifli, as alfo Tuny and Sword-fifh. 
Wild Boar and other Venifon you fcarce ever mifs in 
the Market, but their wild Deer (or Capreole) is gene- 
rally very lean : Sometimes you meet alfo with Porcu- 
pine to be fold. Oranges and Lemons are very cheap 
here, but large Pears and Apples dear, being fold by 
Weight all over Italy. Their Bread is very cheap, good, 
and light, though they ufe no Yeafl: to raife it. Of 
Wines they have greater Variety than in any other 
Place of Italy ; as Greco, Lacrime of Naples, Langue- 
doc 5 Wine of Syracufa and Augujia in Sicily, Orvieta- 
no, Jenfana, Monte Pulciano, Monte jiafeone, Cajlelli, 
Romano and Albanc, more frequently ufed than all the 
reft. Moft of their Wines are fweet (which they call 
Ahboccati) and fo ftrong bodied, that they will bear 
half Water. Rough Wines they call Afeiuti, though 
none of theirs are fo harfti as our Clarets, Florence, or 
red Wines, which are alfo to be had here. Their 
Olives, though fmall, are exceedingly good and fweet ; 
of Walnuts, Hazlenuts, and fuch other Fruits as are 
frequent among us, great Plenty but our Apples and 
Pears excel ail the reft for Goodnefs. 
Rome is alfo noted for various Commodities and 
Manufadures ; as, the beft Viol and Lute-ftrings in 
Europe, perfum’d Gloves, Combs made of Bufflers 
Horn, Womens Fans, Vitriol, Eflences *, and as for 
Mufick and Pictures of the beft Mafters, this City may 
defervedly challenge the Preference before all other Pla- 
ces in Europe. At this Time Cavalier Barberini was 
the moft noted and the only excellent Sculptor here, 
and Pietro de Cortona the moft eminent Painter. 
The Villa's or Country-Seats of the Princes and other 
Rerfons of Quality of Rome, for Flower-Gardens, 
Groves, cut Hedges of Cyprefs, Alatermis, Laurel, 
Bay, Phillyrea, Laurus tinus, and other femper-virent 
Plants, clofe and open Walks, moft excellent Orchards 
of Fruit-trees, Labyrinths, Fountains, Waterworks, 
Statues, Bird-cages, and other Ornaments, but efpeci- 
ally in their Bignefs, (fome being three or four Miles 
in Compafs) exceed moft of the Gardens in Chrijlen- 
dom i the chief of thofe, (i.J The Villa Borghefe, efteem’d 
the beft of all about Rome, though inferior in Bignefs 
to the (2.) Villa Pamphylia, which lies on the Janiculum, 
without St. Pancras's Gate, being four Miles in Com- 
pafs. (3.) The Villa Ludovifia, belonging to Prince 
Ludovifw. (4.) The Pope’s Garden, called Belvedere, 
at the Vatican. (5.) The Pope’s Garden at Monte Ca- 
vallo. ( 6 .) The Villa de Medici,, or the Great Duke’s 
Garden, (y.) The Garden of Montalto. (8) The 
Garden of the Mattei, Each of thefe have their little 
Pillars, beautified with moft excellent Statues, bajji re- 
lievi. Pictures and other Curiofities, for the Defeription 
of which I refer myfelf toothers; neither will I pre- 
tend to enlarge upon their publick Stru6lures, but can’t 
altogether pafs by in Silence the Church of St. Peter, 
being in my Opinion, the moft fumptuous ahd magni- 
ficent Struflure that ever was placed upon the Face of 
the Earth, exceeding in all its Dimenfions the moft 
famous Temples of the Ancients, being 520 Foot long, 
and 385 broad, which though it be not fo long as St. 
Paul's at London, yet as it is much broader, fo this ren- 
ders it more regular and proportionable to its Length, 
s Travels Book II. 
The Cupola is of that ftupenciious Fleight and Compafs 
(having the fame Diameter as that of the Rotunda) 
which fuftaining on the Top a very large Lanthorn, 
encompafs’d with great Stone Pillars, this renders it 
the boldeft and moft ftupendious Piece of Architedlure 
the World ever beheld. The Roof is arch’d and di- 
vided into fpacious Squares or Panes like Wainfeot, the 
Ribs and tranfverfe Borders terminating thofe Pannels, 
being richly gilt, and the Area of each Square fill’d up 
with a large gilt Rofe. The oval Portico encompaftes 
a large Area before the Church, confifling of four 
Rows of great Stone Pillars, fo clofe together, that at 
a Dirtance they refemble a Grove of large Trees. To 
be fhort, the lofty Porch to which you afeend out of 
this Area by twenty four Steps, the covering of fome 
part of the Walls with Marble, finely polifli^d, the 
excellent Statues, magnificent Altars, moft curious Pic- 
tures, and other Ornaments, render this Church the 
moft majeftick and moft admirable Pile of Buildings 
in the Univerfe. 
Whilft we ftaid at Rome, we took a Tour to Frefcati, 
twelve Italian Miles thence, anciently call’d Tufculum, 
where Cicero had a Country-houfe, of which th^°y fhew 
as yet fome Remnants ‘ At prefent it is famous tor three 
Villa's, viz. that of Borghefe, with its Palace call’d 
Mondr agone ; the Villa Aldobrandina or Belvedere, belong- 
ing to Prince Pamphilio, and the Villa Ludovifia ; all 
which for Walks, Groves, Labyrinths, and other Or- 
naments, may compare with the beft near Rome ; and 
for Waterfalls and other Waterworks, exceed them. 
That which pleas’d us moft, (having never feen the like 
before) was the Imitation of a Tempeft, with a Storm 
of Thunder and Rain, which artificial Thunder they 
call Girandola. We alfo took a View of Tivoli, the 
Ancients Tibur, eighteen Miles from Rome •, how much 
Horace delighted in this Place, is evident out of his 
Verfes. Its Situation is, as well as Frefcati, on the Brow 
of a Hill overlooking the Campania of Rome. Here 
are to be feen the Ruins of ancient Temples and other 
Strudlures, and a remarkable Waterfall of the River 
Aniene or Teverone. And the Villa of EJie, for its 
Gardens, Orchards, Walks, Groves, the Girandola and 
other Waterworks, may compare with thofe of Frejeati. 
Not above five Miles from Tivoli, we pafs’d over the 
Sulphur River, the Water whereof we found- of a bluifh* 
Colour, and naufeous Smell, not unlike to that of our 
Sulphur Well at Knaresburgh in Torklhire ; the Channel 
in which it runs is encrufted with a whitifh kind of 
friable flony Matter, which being congeal’d in many 
Places in the Shape of Sugar-plumbs, they call Con- 
fedli de Tivoli, and fell them in whole Boxes full at 
Rome. About Frefcati we faw growing wild Abundance 
of Styrax arbor, which we found no where elfe beyond 
the Seas. 
The Campania of Rome is generally very fertile, but 
being marfhy, and full of ftanding Pools, the Unwhol- 
fomnefs of the Air makes that Country but thinly inha- 
bited. One thing more we obferv’d very well worth 
mentioning during our Stay at Rome, viz. that the 
Water the Servants brought us in frofty Weather to 
wafh our Hands, was fo hot, that we thought it had 
been warm’d on Purpofe by the Fire ; which Phseno- 
menon having been denied by many of our modern 
Philofophers, who were not fatisfied with the Antipe- 
rifiafits of the Ancients, and yet could not give fufficient 
Reafon for it, we thought fit to be fatisfied of the 
Truth, by making an ocular infpeeftion into the Foun- 
tain itfelf, the Water whereof we found of an equal 
Heat with what was brought us. For the reft, the fre- 
quent Rains that fall hereabouts make in fome Meafure 
Amends for the exceflive Drought and Heat of the 
Summer : And as Rome has fufficient to entertain Peo- 
ple of all Tempers, fo it is a Place well fitted for the 
Reception of Strangers. As for the Inhabitants, they 
approach now-adays, in their Furnitures and fome of 
their Manners and Cuftoms, more to the Englijh than 
any of the Italians befides. To enlarge here upon the 
Court of Rome, the Ecclefiaftical State and Goverment, 
with that of their Churches and Ceremonies, fsfr. as it 
would require an entire Volume, fo without infifting 
any 
