3fr. R A y’j Tt'ave/s' 
Book IL 
elfe Ice, which they keep in Confervatories all Summer. 
Without Snow they that are commonly ufed to it, do not 
willingly drink, no not in Winter. In the Kingdom 
of Naples a,nd Sicily, they make a Sort of Cheefe 
which they call Cafeo di Cavallo, i. e. Horfe Cheefe, for 
what Reafon I could not learn. Thefe Cheefes they 
make up in feveral Forms, fome in the Fafhion of a 
blown Bladder, fome in the Fafhion of a Cylinder, and 
ibme in other Figures. They are neither fat nor ttfong, 
yet well tafted, and acceptable to fuch, as have eaten 
them a- while, Fhe Pulp or Body of them lies in 
Flakes, and hath as it were a Grain one Way like 
Wood. , They told us that they were made of Buffalo’s 
Klilkjbut We believed them notj becaufe we obferved not 
many Buffalo s in thofe Countries, where there is more 
of this Cheefe made, than of other Sorts. 
In Italy and other hot Countries their Meat is not 
only naturally rnore lean and dry than ours, but they, 
roaft it alfo till it be ready to fall from the Bones, and 
there be little Juice left in it. Befides, when they roaft 
their Meat, they draw Coals under the Spit, and let 
the Fat drop on them, the Nidor whereof perfumes the 
Meat, but not to our Guft, who are not ufed to it, and 
what they lofe in dripping they fave in Fewel. Their 
Roafting differs not much from our Broiling or 
Carbonading. I fpeak this of ordinary Inns, and 
mean People’s Houfes ; in great Houfes and Inns it is 
otherwife. 
The Italians count not their Hours as we do, from 
twelve to twelve, beginning at Mid-day and Midnight ; 
but from one to twenty four, beginning their Count at 
Sun-fet, which is a much more troublelbme W^ay ; the 
fetting of the Sun being a moveable Point or Term, 
and they being therefore neceffitated to alter and new 
fet their Clocks every Day ; whereas. Midday and Mid- 
night being fix’d Points, the Clocks need no fetting 
a-new. As for Italy in general, though the Italians 
imagine it to be the beft Country in the World, and 
have a Proverb among them, that Italy is the Garden of 
the World', yet fetting afide Lombardy, Campania felix, 
and fome few other Places, the reft is mountainous and 
barren enough : The Earth fo parched up by the Sun- 
beams, that it bears no Grafs, and (as Barclay faith) fel- 
dom yieldeth Grain enough for three Years fucceffively, 
to fupply the Neceffities and Ufes of its Inhabitants, 
whatever they may boaft of the Itala gleha. The Rea- 
fon why the Italians are fo conceited of their own Coun- 
try is becaufe they feldom travel Abroad, and fo fee not 
the Beauty and Fertility of others. 
I might have taken Notice of the vaft and incredi- 
ble Number of religious Houfes there are in Italy. I 
have fometimes thought they might in all of both 
Sexes, amount to eight or ten thoufand. Of thefe the 
Gentlemen make Advantage for fuch of their Daughters 
as either they cannot get Hulbands for, or are no? able 
to give Portions to, fuitable to their Birth and Qiiality, 
they can in one of thefe Houfes for a fmall Matter, 
honourably difpofe of, and fettle for their Lives. The 
Inftitution of fuch Houfes as thefe, whither young Wo- 
men of Quality, who, for Want of fufficient Fortunes 
or perfonal Endowments, cannot eafily provide them- 
felves fuitable Matches, might retire and find honour- 
able Provifion ; would perchance be tolerable, yea com- 
mendable, were they purged from all Superftition -, the 
Women not admitted too young, and under no Vow 
of perpetual Chaftity, only to leave the Houfe in cafe 
they married. But becaufe of the Danger of introdu- 
cing Monkery ; I think it more fafe for a Chriftian 
State, not to permit any fuch Foundations. Buffles are 
a common Beaft in Italy, and they make ufe of them 
to draw their Teams, as we do of Oxen j only becaufe 
they are fomewhat fierce and unruly, they are forced to 
lead them by an Iron Ring, put into their Nofes, as 
our Bear Wards do their Bears. The Cicadoe before- 
mentioned. The Flying Glow-worms, which are there 
every where to be feen in Summer-time. Thefe flying 
or winged Glow-worms, are nothing elfe but the Males 
of the common creeping or unmingled Glow-worm. 
Fabuis Columna relates, that Carolus Ventimiglia, of Fa- 
lermo in Sicily, having out of Curiofity, kept many 
unwinged Glow-worms in a Glafs, did put in among 
them a flying one, which prefently in his Sight did 
couple with them one by one, after the Manner of 
Silk-worms, and that the next Day, the unwinged ones 
or Females began to lay their Eggs. That the Males 
are alfo flying Infedts in England, though they do but 
rarely,, or not at all fhine with us, we are allured by 
an Eye-witnefs, who faw them in Conjundlion with the 
common fliining unwinged Glow-worm. Here by the 
Way it may not be amifs to impart to the Reader, a 
Difeovery made by a certain Gentleman, and commu- 
nicated to me by Francis Jeffop, Efq^ which is, chat 
thofe reputed Meteors called in Latin Ignes fatui, and 
known in England by the conceited Names of Jack 
with a LanthorH, and Wilt with a Wifp, are nothing 
elfe but Swarms of thefe flying Glow-worms. Which 
if true, we may give an eafy Account of thofe Fhano- 
fnena of thefe fuppofed Fires, viz. their hidden Motion 
from Place to Place, and leading Travellers that fol- 
low them, into Bogs and Precipices. Scorpions, which 
in Italy fting not, or at leaft their Stings are not veno- 
mous, as the learned Francifus Redi affirms, though by 
Experience he found the Stinging of the African Scorpion 
to be mortal, or at leaft very noxious. 
Tarantulals fo call’d, becaufe found about Farentum, 
(though we have feen of them at Rome) which are no- 
thing elfe but a large Sort of Spider, the Biting where- 
of is efteemed venomous, and thought to put People 
into phrenetick Fits, enforcing them to dance to cer- 
tain Tunes of the Mufick, by which Means they are 
cured, long and violent Exercife caufing a great Eva- 
cuation by Sweat. Thefe Fits they fay do alfo yearly 
Return, at the fame Seafon the Patient was bitten. But 
Dr. Fhomas Cornelius, of Cozenza, beforemention’d, a 
learned Phyfician and Virtuofo in Naples, diligently 
enquiring into this generally receiv’d, and heretofore un- 
queftion’d Story, that he might fatisfy himfelf and others, 
whether it were really true in Experience rejedts it. Cz- 
mici, as the Italians call them, as the French, Punaije. 
We Englifh call them Chinches, or Wall-Lice, which 
are very noifome and troublefome by their Bitings in 
the Night Tjme, railing a great Heat and Rednefs in 
the Skin. They harbour in the Straw of the Bolfters 
and Mattraffes, and in the Wood of the Bedfteads, 
and therefore in fome Nofocamia or Hofpitals for fick 
Perfons, as for Example, at Genoa the Bedfteads are all 
of Iron. This Infedt, if it be crufh’d or bruis’d, emits 
^,-jrLoft horrid and loathfome Scent, fo that thofe that 
are bitten by them, are often in a Doubt, whether it 
be better to endure the Trouble of their Bitings, or 
kill them, and fuffer their moft odious and abominable 
Stink. We have of thefe Infedls, in fome Places of 
England, but not many, neither are they exceflively 
troublefome to us. 
32. We departed from Frent, intending for Coira or 
Chur, in the Grifons Country, called in Latin, Curia 
Rhetorum. We rode up the Valley where the River 
Athejis runs, called Val venofta, every five Miles paffing 
through a large Village, and one handfome little Town 
called Burgo, and lodged at a fmall Town called Brun- 
fole. We rode through Bolzan, a confiderable Town, 
and for Bignefs comparable to Frent, and ten Miles 
further Maran, a large Town, and lodged at a Village 
called Raveland. We palTed through Lutourn, Slack, 
S'chlanders, Maliz, all Villages and Towns of Note, 
and lafl of all Cleurn, a pretty great walled Town, and 
then ftruck up on the left Hand among the Mountains, 
to a Village called Favers, where we lodged. We rode 
on through the Snow to Monaftero, where the Grifons 
Country begins, and St. Maria, a fmall Terra, and 
flopp’d at Gherf, a Village at the Foot of the high 
Mountains. In this Country the People ufe a peculiar 
Language of their own, which they call Romanfeh, 
that is. Lingua Romana. It feems to be nearer Spanifh 
than Italian, though diftindl from both : Befides their 
own Language, they generally fpeak both Italian and 
Dutch, fo that after we had loft Italian in the Vallies, 
we wondered to find it here among the Hills. Their 
Wines they bring all out of the Valtelline from Firano, 
about two Days Journey diftanc. The Country at this 
Time 
