6po Mr. Ray 
in others fix Years. Bat in thofe Cantons which have 
no Cities, each Countryman is a Freeman, as far as they 
belong to their refpedive Cantons, for they have alfo 
their Subjedfs govern’d by Bailiffs. 
A’pril I, We travelled from Glaris through Nafels^ 
and other Villages near the Lake of Zurich^ and after 
an Hour’s riding afcended a high Mountain, where we 
found the Ground cover’d with Snow, and the famous 
Monaftery of the Benedi5iine Fryars, call’d Eynftdle, 
where is the image of our Lady, who has a peculiar 
Chapel confecrated to her, vifited by many Pilgrims. 
This Abby is under the Jurifdidion of thofe of Swilz^ 
unto which Place v/e came April the 2d, being no more 
than a Village, but comparable to a large Town ; its 
Goverment is the fame with Glaris., being divided into 
fix Quarters, each chufes ten Senators, which compofes 
the Senate, confiding of fixty Perfons. Their Officers 
are alfo the fame as at Glaris. This Canton, as every 
one of the reft, fends two Mejfi or Deputies to the ge- 
neral Diet at Baden^ of which the Landman is gene- 
rally one. 
April 3. After we had travelled three Miles along the 
Lake to Brunen., we embark’d for Altorf, and having 
fpent three Hours more in our Paffage, had a Mile fur- 
ther to Altorf., there being no travelling from Switz to 
AUorf^ unlefs you will take a Compafs of about fixty 
Miles. It is larger than Switz, and has a pretty Church 
and a Monaftery belonging to the Capuchins. Flere 
they told us the Story of William Lell and the Lantvogt ; 
the Statue of the firft we faw on the Top of a Pillar, 
over one of their Fountains, with his Crofsbow on his 
Shoulder, leading his Son by the Hand, and at fome 
Diftance a Tower, on which were painted the feveral 
Paflages of this Story. The Government is the fame 
with6W/2:, the Number of Senators and Manner of 
Election the fame, except that they have a Mafter of 
the Artillery, and fix Pro6lors or Councellors befides. 
April 4. We return’d to the Lake of Lucern., and 
went by Water within an Hour’s travelling of Stantz, 
the chief Village of Underwalden., where we lodg’d. 
Here is a very fair Church, and two Convents, one for 
the Capuchins, and one of Nuns. In this Place, and 
at Altorf, Switz, Lucern, &c. we faw in the Church- 
yards, Croffes of Wood and Iron upon the Graves, on 
fome of which hung a little Copper Kettle with holy 
Water, and many Women coming, with Bunches of 
Herbs in their Hands, which they dipt in the Kettle, 
and fprinkled the Water upon the Graves. Such is their 
Ignorance and Superfticion ! 
This Canton is divided in Oherwald and Underwald ; 
the capital Village of the firft being Stanner, as Stantz is 
of the latter. The lower is govern’d by fixty Senator?, 
chofen by eleven Communities, fome more, fome lefs. 
Their Officers and Eledlions the fame as in Switz 
and Uri, except that here they change their Landman 
every Year. Oherwald has its own Landman, Officers, 
&c. fo that they would feem to be two diftindt Cantons, 
were it not that they fend but two Deputies to the ge- 
neral Diet at Baden. 
Thefe three Cantons of Uri, Switz and Underwalden 
have no Corn fields or Vineyards, but only Pafture- 
Grounds, being fupplied with Wine from Italy, which 
is very dear here ; and therefore but little drank. The 
People are generally very honeft and good-natur’d, and 
keep their Houfes very clean, but are much given to 
eating and drinking, having Plenty of plain Things at 
fmall Coft. 
April 5. We travelled to Lucern, crofting part of the 
Lake. It is a very handfome City, pleafantly fituate 
upon the Lake of the fame Name, and divided in two 
Parts by a River, which arifing from the Lake, is co- 
ver’d here with three Bridges, one for Carts and Horfes, 
the other two for Foot-PafTengers, covered with a Roof, 
one being near a Quarter of a Mile long; befides which, 
it has a fourth Bridge covered like the other, but longer, 
leading to the Church. The great Church, which ftands 
without the Wall, is a very lofty Struffure, over the 
Weftern Door of which is the biggeft Organ that ever 
I faw, the Hollow of the greater ffipes being capacious 
enough for a Man to creep into. They told us, that 
s Travels ' Book II. 
their Great Council confifted of an hundred and thirty fix 
who continue in Office during Life, and when one dies* 
the reft chufe another in his Place. It has two Prefi! 
dents, whom they call Sculteti, who alfo continue for 
Life, but prefide in their Turns every other Year. For 
their Manner of chufing thefe Senators and other Offi- 
cers, I will refer myfelf to Simler. All the Inhabitants 
of the Territories belonging to this City are Subjeds, 
and divided into nineteen or twenty FrefeHurcB, but they 
pay no more than five Batz, or a Hen a Man per aL 
num to the Governor. From Lucern we travell’d, April 
the 6th, fifteen Miles to Zugh, (fTugium in Latin) feated 
at the Side of a fmall Lake, but it is left by one half 
than Lucern. The Government here is popular, like 
thofe of Uri, Switz, and Underwalden ; but befides the 
City, the three Communities of Eyry, Menfinguen and 
Baar have a Share in the Government. Their Magif- 
trates. Officers and Elections the fame as in Uri and 
Switz. To the General Diet the City fends one, and 
the three Communities the other Deputy. The No- 
mination of the Landvogts or Governors in the 
Country belongs once to the City and twice to the 
Communities. 
The Lake of Zugh (if you believe the Inhabitants) 
has greater Variety of Fiffi than any other of Switzer- 
land ; thofe they named to us were. Eels, Carp, Perch^ 
Trouts, Salmons', which is very ftrange, by Reafon of 
its great Diftance from the Sea ; Efch, called Grayling 
in Englifh, Trifea or the Eel-pout, Pikes, fof which we 
faw one weighing thirty Pounds) White-fifh or Alberlin, 
which is taken alfo in the Lake of Bala in Merionethjhire 
in Wales, znd is call’d there Guiniad ; and in Huls-water 
near Perith in Cumberland, and there call’d Schelly', 
Hafler, a Fiffi I take to be the fame with our Charre 
in Winandenmere in Wefimorland, and the Torgoch of 
North Whales ; Balia, Nafe, ^call’d Nafus by Naturalifts) 
Breams, Crevifes, &c. and many more. In the ffia- 
dowy Lakes about Sant and Zug, we found A^latum 
Cordi, or Dentaria aphyllos. From Zug we rode April 
7. in five Hours to Zurich, of which we have given an 
Account before. 
April 13. We travell’d thence four good Leagues to 
Mellingen, a free Town, not far from Baden, and paf- 
fing through Lenfburg, lodged at Arauw, a confiderabie 
Town upon the Aar, four ffiort Leagues from Mel- 
lingen. The 14th we pafs’d thro* no confiderabie Place 
till we came to Solothurn, nine Leagues from Arauw, 
which, though the Head of a Canton, is not confider- 
able either for its Strength or Bignefs. April 15, tak- 
ing a round-about Way out of the ordinary Road to 
Geneva, we took a View of Bern, fix Hours riding from 
Solothurn, that we might not leave Swifferland without 
feeing it. 
Bern is a very handfome City, for though the Houfes 
be not very high, yet they are well built of Stone. 
The chief Street which is very long, has Cloyfters on 
both Sides ; it lies ftretched out in Length upon a Hill, 
refembling a Peninffila, being almoft encompaftfed by 
the River, that fide where it is not being ftrongly for- 
tified with Baftions and Outworks. The Founder of 
this City, as alfo of Friburg in Switzerland, and of 
Friburg in Brifgow, was Berchtoldus Duke of Zerin, 
unto whom they have eredted a Monument in the great 
Church, one of the neateft Stone Fabricks in all Switzer- 
land. The Territories of this City are of fuch an Ex- 
tent, as to comprehend one third Part of all the Coun- 
try of the Swifs, being divided into fixty Bailyages, be- 
fides four others they have in common with Friburg. 
The Landvoghts or Bailiffs continue in their Stations for 
fix Years, which makes them very rich without exading 
upon the People. They keep here five or fix Bears in a 
Pit, which are often climbing up and down the Fir- 
Trees that grow in the Pit. The Arms of Bern is a 
Bear, alluding perhaps to their Name, this City being 
the firft that coin’d the Money call’d Batze, ffignifying 
a Bear’s Paw) from the Figure of a Bear ftampt upon 
it, which was afterwards imitated by all the reft of 
the Cantons. 
April ij. We travelled from Bern to Friburg, a very 
handfome City and like wife the Head of a Canton ; its 
Situation 
