Chap. IV. through Spain. 70 1 
the Cafella Maggior lie interred two Kings, and in the 
Capella de los Res^ four Kings. 4. The King’s Palace. 
5. The Ruins of a famous Engine to raife up Water 
to the King’s Palace. There is fo little of it remain- 
ing, that it is impolTible thence to find out all the Con- 
trivance and Intrigue of it. Between Toledo and Mad- 
rid the Country is very populous, and the Soil very 
good. All along the Road, from Sevil to Madrid^ the 
common Fare is Rabbets, red legg’d Partridges, and 
Eggs, which are fufficiently dear. We arrived at Mad- 
rid^ fix Leagues \ near the Town we pafied over the 
River Xarante. Madrid is very populous, well built 
with good Brick Houfes, many have Glafs Windows, 
which is worth the noting, becaufe you fhall fcarce fee 
any in all Spain befides. The Streets are very foul and 
nafty. There is one very fair Piazza or Market-place, 
encompafied round with high and uniform Houfes, ha- 
ving five Rows of Balconies one above another, and 
underneath Portico’s or Cloifters quite round. The 
chief Things to be feen in Madrid are, i. The Prifon. 
2. The Piazza juft now mentioned. 3. The King’s’ 
Chapel. 4. The Palaces of feveral Noblemen, as that 
of the Duke of Alva^ that of the Duke of Medina de 
Jos Torres., &c. 5. The King’s Palace, where there is 
the King’s Cavallerifca and the Queen’s Cavallerifca, 
6. A great Piazza before the Palace, where are Abun- 
dance of Coaches always attending. 7. The Engli/h 
College of Theatines. 8 . II Retiro, out of the Town, the 
Efcurial and El Pardo. 
13. On the 5th, I fet out from Madrid for Port St. 
Sebajiian. We pafied within Sight of the Ffciirial and 
El Pardo, and lay that Night at St. Aiigufiin, fix 
Leagues. On the 6th we paflfed Butrago, and lay at 
Samoferra ; all the Way a barren, mifcrable, moun- 
tainous Country, eleven Leagues. On the 7th we 
pafied Frecedilie, and lay at Aranda, having crofiTed 
the River Durius or Duero, eleven Leagues. On the 
8th we pafied Bahalon and Lerma, where is a Convent 
of Dominican Fryers, and a Palace of the Duke of 
Lerma’s, and came that Night to Burgos, twelve 
Leagues. The moft confiderable Things in Burgos are, 
I. The Bridge over the River Relarzon. 2. The Gate 
at the End of the Bridge, where are the Statues of 
Charles V. of Janus Calvus, of Diego Porcellero, of Fer- 
nandez Gonfales, of Nuncio Pafures, of Don Carlotte, all 
famous Men of Burgos. 3. The Market-place. 4. The 
great Church, in which are a great many Monuments 
of Bifiiops and Canons, two great Monuments of Pedro 
Fernando di Velafco, Conftable of Caftile, and his Wife 
Mercia di Mendoza Countefs of Haro. This Night we 
lodged at ^intora Villes, five Leagues. On the 10th 
we pafied by Pancorva, a Place very famous for good 
Water ;• Miranda, a great Town, where there is a 
good Bridge over the River Iberus, and after that we 
had, pafied two other Rivers, Baiis and Sadurra, and 
lay at Ermmian, eleven Leagues. At Miranda there is 
a great Market for Wheat. 
On the nth. We travelled to Vittoria. Over one of 
the Gates is the Statue of King Bamba, and infcribed 
in Gold Letters, Hac e§l Victoria qiue vincit, four Leagues. 
Vittoria is the chief City of all the Country called Alaba. 
We paffed this Day by Sairnes, the firft Town of Gui- 
pufcoa, and lay at Mfcarias, nine Leagues. In Guiptif- 
coa they pay no Taxes or other Duties to the King, with- 
out the Confent of the whole Country. The whole 
Diftrift is more commonly called Provincia than Gui- 
pufcoa -, it is canton’d out into a great many Corpora- 
tions and Villages, every one of which fends one, two, 
or three Reprefen tatives to the general Meeting, when 
there is any publick Bufinefs. All Offices are'^ annual, 
and chofen diverfly, according to the differing Cuftoms 
of theTown. The chiefOfficer in eacliTown to determine 
all civil and criminal Caufes is the Alcalda, but from him 
they may appeal to the Governor of the Province, fent 
by the King every third Year, and from the Governor 
to the King’s Council at Valladolid. Next to iht Alcalda 
are two Regidores, to look after the Prices of all Com- 
modities, a Bolfer for the Treafury, a Medina for the 
Prifon, Argozils or Serjeants, IFc. They boaft that 
they are the Walls of Spain, and therefore have many 
V o L. n. N® 1 17. 
Privileges. Guipufcoa is under the Bifhop of Pampelona, 
In Guipufcoa and Bifcay they have a peculiar Language 
of their own, and therefore fend their Children to School 
to learn Spanijh (which, they call Romance) as we do 
ours to learn Latin. The Searchers having hindered 
us, we were forced to travel a great Way in the Night j 
we were lighted hy Tia for Teas, wMich. burnt as well, 
and gave as good a Light as Torches. When they 
went out, they toflfed them up and down in their Hands, 
which kindled them again. Thefe Teas (To called^ 
doLibtlefs from the Latin Word Tceda) are very com- 
monly ufed in this Country, and are nothing elfe but 
Ballons of Wood hacked and cleft, (but fo as the Pie- 
ces hang together^ and afterwards foundly dried in an 
Oven or Chimney. Along the Middle they ufe to 
cleave them almoft quite afunder. They are made of 
feveral Sorts of Wood of Robla, i. e. Oak ; Haia, i.e. 
Beach-Tree^ but the beft of Avellana, i. e. Hazel. 1 won- 
der much at this, unlefs they have fame Way of preparing 
the Wood by Jleeping it in Oil or inflammable Matter. 
The TcecitE of the Ancients were made only of the Trunks 
of old and fappy Pines. 
14. On the 1 2 th, We pafied by Mondragone,sn\\Q.vQ 
there is a Fabrica of Arms for the King, Oniate, Le- 
gafpa. Villa real, and lay at Villa Franca, feven Leaoues. 
We left St. Adrian, which is the ordinary Road, a little 
on our Left-hand. This Country is very populous and 
wooded, all the Hills being covered witii Oaks. They 
ufe no Ploughs, but turn over the Ground with Tri- 
dents of Iron •, four or five of them working together, 
and thrufting in their Tridents all together, turn up a 
Yard or two of Earth at a Time, which they afterwards 
drefs and level, like Beds in a Garden. The People 
are fomething better conditioned than the Spaniards, 
richer and far more populous ; i. Becaufe there is a 
better Government, and greater Liberty. 2. There is 
Abundance of Wood and Iron. 3. More Rain than 
in the other Parts of Spain. On the 13th, We pafiTed 
Tolofa, and arrived this Night at St. Sebajiian, havino- 
travelled eight Leagues. The m.oft obfervable Thino-s 
in St. Sebajiian are, i. The Walls and Guns. 2. A 
great Convent of Dominican Friars, in which there is a 
famous Pair of Stone Stairs, each Step being of one in- 
tire Stone, and fupported only on one Side. 3. The 
Haven. The Government of St. Sebajiian confifts of a 
great Council of all that have one or more Houfes, 
and are married, but none can bear Office unlefs he 
have two Houfes j of thefe there are not above 150 or 
200, though the Town be very populous, containing 
about 24,000 Souls. Once in a Year all the Names of 
this 150 or 200 are put into an Urn, and a Child takes 
out eight to be Eledtors. Every one of thefe eight 
chufes his Man. The old Magiftrates that are juft then 
going out, divide thefe eight, that the Electors have choien, 
into four Pairs, fitting them as well as they can, v. g. 
an old Man and a young together, Gfc. Thele four 
Pairs are put into an Urn. The firft Pair that are drawn 
out, are the two Alcaldas for that Year, the fecond Pair 
the Deputy Alcaldas, the third Pair the two Regidores, 
the fourth Pair the two Deputy Regidores. In much the 
fame Manner they chufe two Jurats, one Syndick or 
Attorney-General, one Treafurer, Cfc. All thefe' Offi- 
cers make a lefier Senate, but in Bufinefifes of Importance 
the whole Number meets. There is no Diftindtion of 
Nobiles and Plebeii, but all that are defcended from Gui- 
pufcoans that are married, and have one Floufe, are in 
a Capacity to be Eledlors ; all that have two Houfes to be 
Magiftrates ; the Jurats Places are moft defired, there 
being a great many ecclefiaftical Preferments belongino- 
to the Town, the Difpoficion whereof, when they come 
to be vacant, is in them, who ufually beftow them upon 
their Relations and Friends. Every Winter there are 
feveral Whales caught upon this Coaft, they coming 
hither in Winter, and frequenting here, as they do up^ 
on the Coaft, of Greenland in Summer. They catch 
them by ftriking them with a Harping Iron, after the 
Erne Manner as they do Sword-fifii upon the Coaft of 
Calabria and Sicily. Abundance of Cyder made about 
St. Sebajiian 2ind Bayonne. On the 14th, From St. 6^- 
baHian I travelled through Oro?na, Irim, on the Left 
8 Hand 
