o6 ' Ithe travels of an Englim Gentleman Book II, 
Aufliil. 4. A Defcription of the T’own of Aveyro, and the Country about 5. An Account of 
the famous City ^PortOj and f the ?Joble River upon which it is feat ed, 6. The Author's Journey 
from thence to Bfaga, with a View of that City^ and of the Towns <^Viana a?2d Camena. 7. A JDe^ 
fcriptionofT2\<t)\e\2^ [in Portugal) and of the Frontier Country towards Spain. 8. An Account oj the 
Province oj Galicia, and of the Towns of K-eidonitlh and VoniQ 9. His Return into 
Portugal, and by. another Route back to Lisbon, 10. His fecond Journey info Spain, with a Defcrip- 
tion ^Eftremoze and Elvas. ii. His Journey through Badajos, Merida, Trukillo or Truxillo, to 
Toledo. 12. The Author's Defcription ^Madrid, and oj the Palace of the An 
Account of the City andXJniverfty oj Compoflella, one of the moft famous in Spain. 14. The celebra- 
ted Palace and Convent of the Efcurial defcribed^ the ReliqueSy RicheSy and Orna?nents enumerated, 
1 5. An Account of the Pantheon, or Place of the Royal Sepulchres. 16. A View of the old Chapel 
and Royal Palace of their Catholick MajeftieSy and a Recapitulation of the remarkable Things in this 
celebrated Place, ij. An Account of Aranjuez, a?id other Places on the Road. 18. A Dejcription of 
the Town and Cafle of Alicant. 19. The MannerSy Cufoms, a?td Behaviour of the Inhabitants of Tz- 
lentia. 20. Some very fingular Bijiances of the Ignorance and Superfiition of the Spaniards in general. 
2 1. Obfervations and Remarks upon the foregoing Sedlion. 
i, N the Year 1693, I embarked on board a Mer- 
B chant- (hip for Portugaly where we arrived with- 
H out any Accident but fuch as are ordinary at 
Sea, in the River of Lisbony in which City (lay- 
ing feveral Months, I will give you the beft Account I 
am able of what I obferv’d during my Stay. 
It is feated on divers Hills, which make the Streets 
very uneafy and unpleafant ; befides, the Dirt and noi- 
fome Smells arihng from the Filth that runs from their 
Kitchens Cwhich are all above Stairs) into them, and by 
Reafon of their Narrownefs can’t be dried by the Sun, 
makes them fo ofienfive, that no body cares much to 
pafs through them. 
Arriving there in Lenty I was entertained with the 
Sight of their monftrous ProcelTions, wherein I oblerved 
fome of the true Penitents lafh themlelves with that Se- 
verity that they frequently die of it ; for which Reafon 
it is that the Priefls are obliged to declare to them. That 
fucb as procure their Death by this Excefs of Follyy are 
the Occafwn of their own Damnation. But among thefe 
true Devotees are to be feen many others, hired on Pur- 
pofe by the Religious Societies, to increafe the Number 
of the Penitents i a Thing fo fcandalous, that even the 
foreign Catholicks refiding here blufh at it, there being 
fcarce any but the moft profligate and debauch’d 
Wretches that will expofe themfelves to fuch dangerous 
Mortifications for Lucre-fake : Among the reft, they 
had at that Time employed a certain lewd Fellow, who 
us’d to lerve as a Porter to the Engliflj refiding there. 
They have a vaft Number of Churches and Convents, 
but few that are magnificent, the Domoy or Cathedral it- 
felf, being neither Jarge nor handfomely built : Their 
chief publick Strudfures are, the Royal Palace, feated 
upon the River T ngusy the Model whereof was defigned 
much larger than it is. It has a Cloyfter behind adjoin- 
ing to it. The Palace of the Archbifhop of Lisbon is a 
fpacious Strudure, with fome good Statues upon the 
Stairs, the only Kind of Furniture the Portuguefe delight 
in, tbefe being even in the King’s Apartments nothing 
to be feen but white Walls. Their Houfts are generally 
very high and pretty cool^ but the Streets fo narrow, 
that inftead of Coaches they are forced to make ufe of 
Litters, carried by Mules, which are very ftrong and 
large in this Country. 
It is an odd Sight to fee the Portuguefey both young 
^nd old, appear with large Spedacles faftened to their 
Ears in the Streets. Their Diet is generally very mode- 
rate, and they feldom or never commit any Excefs in 
Wine : Their predominant Vice is the Converfation of 
lewd Women, unto which the Heat of the Climate feems 
to. incline them more than Extravagance. The Women 
paint here very young, and are confequently obliged to 
follow it as they grow more in Years. The Men are 
exceeding jealous, and a Sufpicion of Incontinency in a 
Woman puts her in Danger of her Life j hence they are 
feldom allowed to ftir abroad, except when they go to 
Church on Sundays, Holidays, or their Eves. 
The Women of Quality wear their Fardingals here 
larger than thofe of Italy or Spain ; they wear , Veils to 
cover their Faces ; they look upon it as the greateft 
Piece of Tmmodefty to (hew their Feet ; for which Rea- 
fon they wear very long Petticoats, and their Pages or 
Footmen hold a Piece of Cloth either before or behind 
them, as they get in or out of their Coaches or Litters, 
though at the fame Time they go both with their Bofoni 
and Shoulders bare. The Men’s Habit is a black Coat 
and a Band of our Colchester Bays, which they turn the 
wrong Side outward in Mourning ; this is the general 
Wear, without any Diftinftion of Perfons or Quality, 
unto which they are all lubjed without any Difterence, 
Silver and Gold Laces being exprefly forbid among 
them. The Inq^uifition makes them all appear good Chri- 
ftians, though it is generally believed there are many 
conceal’d JewSy as their fwarthy Complexion and. fiery 
revengeful Temper are the Remnants of their Moorifh 
Anceitors. 
2. The Situation of Lisbon upon the River Tajo or Ta- 
guSy makes it a Place of confiderable Traffick; for, not to 
mention their Commerce in the Eafi Indies and Brafif 
they trade with moft Nations of EuropCy but efpecially 
with the Englifhy who take in Salt there for Newfound- 
landy and bring back to them dry’d Cod ; befides that, 
they exchange many of their Woollen Manufadlures for 
the Wine and Fruits of Portugal. 
The Extent of the Tagus into a great Part of the 
Country, affords them likewife a moft commodious Car- 
riage of their Wines, Gils, Fruits, and other Produ« 5 ls 
of the Country : Their Salt, efpecially that of Sr, 
UbeSy is tranfported into moft Parcs of Europe, and 
uled in vaft Quantity in Sweden. 
They abound in Fi(h at Lisbon, but have fome Scar- 
city of Fle(h, efpecially of Beef and Mutton, the ad- 
jacent rocky Mountains aftbrding Food only for Goats ; 
however, their tame Fowl, when well fatted, are very 
good, and their Pigeons both very large and well tafted. 
About Lisbon are many Summer-houfes, and Gardens 
well planted with Orange- trees, the agreeable Scent 
whereof perfumiCS the Air at a confiderable Diftance : 
A Friend of mine had one of thefe Summer-feats at 
Zfoz, about four Miles from with a well plant- 
ed, pleafant, walled Garden, of three Acres of Land 
belonging to if, which among other Advantages, had 
this Conveniency belonging to if, that we could go 
thither in a Coach, a Rarity among thofe craggy 
Mountains. I fpent a great Parc of the Summer 
there. 
During my Stay here, I took particular Notice, 
that even in the hotted Seafon, we were conftantly, 
toward Evening, refrefh’d with a cool Sea-breeze, a 
Thing I afterwards obferv’d in moft Places about 
Lisbon. 
From this Goimtry-feat I ufed frequently to take a 
Walk to the once fo much celebrated Nunnery of Ode- 
valla, but much reftrained of late Years both in its Re- 
venues, and the free Converfation allowed to that Or- 
der in fome of their Convents. 
3. Leaving Lifbon, May 6 . 1694, I travell’d to- 
wards Porto, to take a View of the Country on that 
Side ; I pafs’d the firft Day through a rocky Country 
to Sacca Veina, and thence two Leagues further to Ah- 
crea, and in the Afternoon through Aliandra, Villa 
Franca, Povia d.ndtCaJiinora, where I lodg’d that Night, 
