Chap. V. thfough Hungary, Thessaly^ Macedonia, ^c. 769 
ftrong Place, fituate on the Side of a Fen, in which 
there is an Ifle, and beyond it a Caftle. This Place is 
famous for the unparallelM Refiftance made here by 
Count S^erini againft the 'Turks ; for, after having been 
forced out of the Town, he retired into the lile, and 
from thence to the Caftle, where, after having repulfed 
the Turks in feveral AflTaults, he fallied out with twenty 
four Men, (all that were left) who were all ftain by the 
Infidels, in endeavouring to break through their Lines. 
10. From hence we pafs’d on by Barinowar Darda^ 
or Draza, to EJfeck or OJfeck, fuppofed to be the old 
Murfa, or at leaft very near it. Its Situation is very 
low, the Streets being paved with Timber Trees laid 
crofs-wife upon one Side of the Gate you fee fome 
Remnants of an old Roman Infcription, M. TELIANy 
kAc. and on the other Side a Maid’s Head cut in Stone. 
Here you fee alfo an uncommon Dial, brought hither 
from Serinwar \ and the largeft Piece of Ordnance that 
ever I faw in thofe Parts, not lying upon Carriages, but 
upon Bodies of Trees. But what furpaftes all the reft 
is, the famous Bridge of EJfeck^ built of Wood, partly 
over the River partly over the adjacent Marfhes, 
being five Miles long, railed in on both Sides, and de- 
fended by certain Towers at every Quarter of a Mile’s 
Diftance. But of this elfev/here •, it being the greateft 
Paffage from Servia, and other of the Grand Seignior’s 
Dominions, into Hungary. Count Nicholas Serini, to 
hinder Supplies from coming to the Grand Vizier’s 
Army, burnt that Part of the Bridge which was laid 
over the River Drave, (rebuilt fince) and in his Re- 
turn alfo fet Fire to Five Churches^ which lies to the 
Weft of EJfeck. 
From hence we travel’d to Valcowar., where there is 
a {lately Bridge of Wood over the Walpo., {Valpanus) 
a River affording great Plenty of Fifti, upon which, to 
the Weft, ftands alfo the Town of kValpo \ then by 
Sotzin Palanko, and Towarnick., or Tabornick., to Netro- 
vitza, a large Town near a Lake, and fo to Simonovitz., 
leaving to the Right of us (at a great Diftance) the fo 
famous ancient Sirmium., a Place fcarce worth taking 
Notice of now, except for its Antiquity. The Country 
hereabouts is called Schremnia ; but that Part extending 
nearer to the Drave, Bojfoga. 
11. In this Country many Families, nay the Inhabi- 
tants of whole Villages, have their Habitations under 
Ground, like t\\t Troglodytes the fubtcrraneous Nati- 
ons bordering or\Mgypt. We faw fome Wells near them, 
where they draw their Water like our Brewers they no 
fooner got Sight of us, but they retired to their Caves, 
their Dogs by their Barking having given them timely 
Notice of our Approach. We alighted to take a View 
of the Houfes of thefe poor Chriftians, which we found 
tolerably well contrived within, divided by Partitions 
with wooden Chimnies, and a Window at one End a 
little above Ground ; All Things were neatly kept, 
though but poorly, after the Fafhion of thofe Parts. 
Their Speech we found to be a Dialedl of the Sdavo- 
man. 
We continued our Journey between the Da^tuhe and 
the Save j we came to Zemlin upon the Danube., and from 
its Caftle had a fair Profpedl of Belgrade ; whither we 
pafs’d from hence by Water. 
Belgrade., Taurunum, Alba Graca, or Greek-kFeiJfen- 
lurgh, or Nandor Alba., as it is called by the Hungarians, 
is a large, ftrong, populous, and trading City in Servia 
or Moefta Superior, feated at the very Confluence of the 
River Save and tht Danube, the firft being to the Weft, 
and the other to the North. The Danube is very broad 
here, and its Current fo rapid, that it feems to cut off 
that of the Save, as the Rhofne doth the Sein near Lyons 
in France. The Water of the Danube feems more yel- 
low and troubled, and that of the Save greenifli and 
clear. At the very Mouth of the Save is an Ifle, made 
there of the Settling of the Sands of both Streams, 
about thirty-five Years ago, which is now full of 
Wood. 
T2. As we entred Belgrade, I pafs’d by the Water- 
Caftle, and afterwards by the Upper Caftle, both large, 
and ftrengthened with feveral Towers. The chiefeft 
Trading-ftreets are covered over Head, to keep off the 
VoL. II. CXXII. 
Sun and Rain, The Shops are no bigger than Taylors 
Shopboards, and very low, the Shop- People fetting up- 
on them as our Taylors do, and felling their Wares to 
the Chapmen, v>^ho remain without, and feldom enter 
the Shop There are befides thefe at Belgrade, two 
large Bezafians, or Places where the beft Commodities 
are fold ; they are built crofs-wife like the old Cathe- 
drals, with Walks within, like to thofe of our Old Ex- 
change above Stairs. They have alfo two Exchanges 
built of Stone, with two Rows of Pillars over one ano“ 
ther, but were almoft filled up with Merchandizes^, 
The Grand Vizier had lately built a ftately Caravanfera, 
at his own Coft, with a Fountain in the Court, and juft 
by a Mofque with a Fountain before it this being the 
firft I ever faw within-fide. He had alfo built a Col- 
1 'ge for young Students, one of which I faw in a green 
Garment, with a four-corner’d Turbant on his Head. 
I obferved alfo great Numbers of Sepulchres near Bel- 
grade. We lodged at an Armenian Merchant’s Houfe, 
where we were well accommodated, and our Landlord 
condudled us to feveral other Armenians, who had very 
fair Houfes, and entertain’d us with Coffee, Sherbet, 
and very good Wines of the neighbouring Country. 
There are very few Trading People in thofe Places 
where the Armenians do not live •, they have a Church 
at Belgrade, and feem to be more open, candid, and 
fair-dealing than the Greeks and Jews. 
Belgrade is a Place of great Trade % its Situation at 
the Conflux of the Danube and Save, and the River 
Theyjfe falling into xht Danube near it, as the River Drave 
does not far from it, and the Morava, or MaroJIo, not 
much below it ; All this, I fay, together with the Ad- 
vantage of a very fruitful adjacent Country, through 
which xFtDanube paffes towards the Euxine Sea, is fuf- 
ficient to make Belgrade one of the moft flouriftiing 
Cities in Europe, were it in the Hands of a People that 
knew how to improve all thefe Advantages. This City 
was formerly the main Bulvvark of Hungary, which has 
feveral Times ftemm’d the Current of the Turkijh Vic- 
tories, witnefs the Difgrace received here by Mahomet 
the Great ; but was at laft taken by Solyman the Magni- 
ficent mi 
13. Alter we had left Belgrade, we continued our 
Journey through Servia, and paffing by a very high 
Hill called Havilleck, to the Weft of us,, (where we faw 
the Ruins of an old Monaftery) we came to Hijfargick 
near the Da?iuhe, though our Maps place it at a good 
Diftance from it. Here we bid adieu to the Danube, at 
a Place where it had run already from Ulm in Suahia, 
where it begins to be navigable, about 900 Miles, be- 
fides what is to be accounted for from its firft Source 
thither, and has feveral Hundreds of Miles to run be- 
fore it difeharges itfelf into the Euxine Sea. The next 
Place we came to was Collar, not far from Samandria, 
an old Roman Colony, but now an inconfiderable Place. 
From hence to Hajfan Bajfa Palanka, about forty Englifo 
Miles from Belgrade, where we found a Lion worrying 
a Wolf, in Scone, a very ancient Piece. 
Coming afterwards to Baditzna, we faw feveral Bul- 
garian Women, whofe Drefs feemed to us very odd ; 
For they wear a Kind of Canopy upon their Heads, fee 
about, as well as their Foreheads, with all Sorts of Fo- 
reign Money ; we alfo beftow’d fome Pieces upon them, 
as an Addition to their Ornaments, which they thank- 
fully received. Much in the fame Manner have I feen 
fome Grecian Women attired, their Foreheads being 
cover’d richly with Duckats of Gold, and Pearl j but 
their Head-drefs was not railed fo high. 
We pafs’d forward for Jagodna, pleafantly feated in a 
moft delightful Country *, and in a few Hours after we 
had left it, turning off to the South, we, faw to the 
Right of us, on the Side of a Hill, the Tomb of a 
Turkijh Saint, about four Yards long, and a fquare co- 
ver’d Place near it ; Our Chians having performed his 
Devotion here, we went forward through great Woods 
by Chifflick, where there is a Caravanfera ; but we 
thought it more fafe for us to refrefli ourfelves, and our 
Horfes, at an adjacent Farm-houfe, belonging to a 
Merchant of Belgrade. Hence we travel’d all Night to 
the Morava, or Mojchlus (the M.arcJl:j) the chief "River 
9 K of 
