77 ^ 
of this Country, arlfing in the Mountains in two 
Streams, the one calPd di Bulgaria', the other 
Moranja di Servia ; and uniting atierwards in one Chan- 
nel, fails into the Danube at Zendecir, or Singidunutn^ 
oppofite to the Rafcian Shore. We happening to pafs 
this River in a Place where it was very broad, deep and 
rapid, the Chiaus betook himfelf to his Prayers ; and af- 
ter the Danger was over, it put me in Mind of the rapid 
River Varus or Var, on the Confines of Provence and Italy, 
which, when I pafs’d on Horfeback, two Men were for- 
ced to go on the lower Side of me, to keep miy Horfe 
from being carried downwards by the Violence of the 
Current. By this River the Commodities of Servia and 
Bulgaria, are carried into the Danube, and from thence 
to other Places; as on the other Hand, Salt, and various 
other Commodities of the Product of Aujiria and Hun- 
gary, are brought up againft the Current of the fime 
River. Near this River, Hunniades- furprized the 
SCurhJh Camp by Moonlight, with 10,000 Horfe, 
with the Slaughter of 30,000 Men, and 4000 taken 
Prifoners. 
At laft we came to Halli J ahifar , ox Crujhovatz, a 
Place of Note in Bulgaria, having a handfome Church, 
with two fair Towers. From hence we continued our 
Journey for a whole Day through Hills and Forelfs, and 
and came at Night to Procupie, fuppofed by forrie to be 
the old Villa Procopiana ; the Purks call it Ur chip. We 
lodged here this Night at a MerchanPs Houfe of Ragufa, 
where we met with very good Accommodation. Here 
we met with a Roman Catholick Monk, who fpoke Latin 
(a Rarity in thofe Parts) and one of their Phyficians, 
wFofe Knowledge went no further than the Compofi- 
tion of fome ordinary Simples ; his Way was to 
offer his Service to the People every Morning in the 
Market-place. 
14. From hence we travel’d to Lefcoa, or Lefcovia, a 
Town feated upon the River Lyperitza, which may well 
be call’d the Maander of Mcefia, having fo many vari- 
ous Windings betwixt the Hills, that in lefs than twelve 
Hours time we pafs’d it ninety Times. This put me in 
Mind of the Italian River Taro, which I pafs’d forty 
times betwixt Parma and Fornovo. I found nothing 
worth taking Notice of here, except an ancient large 
Tower, but without any Infcription. We were alfo 
much diverted with the great Concourfe of People met 
together on Account of a great Fair, which is annually 
kept in an Enclofure near the Place. We continued our 
Journey the next Day over the Mountain Clifjura ( one 
of the Branches of Mount Hcemus) where our Eyes 
were furprized with the Brightnefs of the Rocks, 
which confifting of Mujcovia Glafs, made a pleafing glit- 
tering Show ; like that mentioned by Olearius, of Lapis 
Specularis, betwixt Permeras 3 .nd Schamachia, which Ihi- 
ned like Diamonds. We delcended through a narrow 
rocky Way, by the ftrong Caftle of Kolomhoiz, or Golo- 
lotz, which brought us to Urania, a ftrong Pafs with a 
CaftJe at the Foot of Mount Clijjura, and commanding 
that Paffage. 
The whole Ridge of Hills, which extends betwixt 
Servia and Macedonia, is a Parc of Mount Hamus, 
which under divers Names reach from the Adriatick to the 
EuVine Sea ; vifiting by the Way feveral Paffages which 
Philip King of Macedon took care to fhut up, to fecure 
himfelf agamft the neighbouring Nations ; lome affirm. 
That from the middle Peaks of Mount Hcemus, there is 
a Profpe<ff both to the Adriatick and Eimne Seas. But 
King Philip, who made Trial of it, found himfelf dif- 
appointed in his Expedations, and fo was I ; for being 
upon one of thofe high Mountains, but fomewhat nearer 
to the Adriatick Sea, I found that the Mountains of 
hania o?x the Prorpe6f on that Side. From hence 
we went forward to Comonava, where there is ftill a Greek 
Monaftery on the Side of the Hills, and fo to Kaplanlih 
or Pygres Town ; then to Kuprulih, or Bridge Pown, 
having a good Bridge over a confiderable River call’d 
Pfinia. It was cafoally let on Fire before we left it, 
and a great Parc of it burn’d. 
From hence we travel’d by the Way of Ishar to Pyr- 
lipe, firfl: pafling the high and craggy Mountains of 
Pyrlipe-m Macedonia^ which glifter like the QHJJura^ and 
Book II. 
probably contains, befides the Mufeovia Glafs, fome Mi« 
nerals. There we faw maffy Stones lie upon maffy 
Scones, without the leaft Earth abdut them ; and upon a 
high Ridge or Rock, many Steeples high, a very ftrong 
Caftle, belonging formerly to Marco Crollowitz, a famous 
Man in thofe Parcs. 
15. After this, paffing through a plain Country, we 
came to a large pleafant and well-peopled Town of 
cedonia, calTd Monafter, or Poki, where great Preparati- 
ons were making for the Reception of the Sultana, who 
was to lie in here ; where I afterwards heard ffie was de- 
livered of a Daughter, who lived not long. From 
hence we went on to Filurina and Eccijjo Verheni, where 
are plentiful Springs of Mineral Waters: But as we 
were defeending the Hill which leads to the Town, we 
had Sight of that noted Mount, Olympus, though Seventy 
Miles off; and to the Left of us, of the two Lakes of 
Petrijki and Uflrova, one whereof, as they fay, was 
made by the removing of great Stones out of the Side 
of the Hills, whereby Vent being given to the Subter- 
raneous Waters, they broke out into the adjacent Plains. 
Coming to Egribugia, we quitted again the Plains, and 
pafted over high Rocks to Sariggiole, built partly upon 
a Hill, partly in the Plain ; the firft being inhabited by 
Chriftians, and this lower Part by Purks : Upon one of 
the adjacent Rocks ftands a Caftle. Not far from this 
Place we went through a Paflage cut through the RockSj 
like a Gate, through which alfo paffes a Rivulet ; this 
Pafs commanding the Accefs of this Country, which 
put me in Mind of the Paffage of La Chiufa, in the^^- 
lian Alps, betwixt Venfone and Ponteva, which is ffiut 
up by the Venetians every Night. We pafted alfo by a 
Hill of a fine Red Earth, whereof they make Veffels, 
much efteera’d in thofe Parrs ; we proceeded over very 
dangerous Rocks, in narrow hanging Ways, with dread- 
ful Precipices on one Side, where the Carkaffes of 
Florfes, which were tumbled down, gave us fufficienC 
Warning to be upon our Guard. Afterwards we faw 
Mount Olympus upon our Left, till we come to Alef- 
/one, or Alejfoun, a Place of Note, where the Greeks have 
a Monaftery, belonging to thofe of the Order of St. 
Eafil', the Building whereof was a quite different kind 
from that we had feen before. 
From hence pafting a River, we entred a pleafant Place 
of live Miles long, with divers Towns in it ; and after- 
wards over a Hill, a Branch of the Mount Olympus, on 
the Top whereof we faw an Old Man beating the Drum 
to give Notice, that the Paffages on both Sides were 
free from Robbers. We deferied from thence into the 
Plains of Phejfaly ; and turning to the Left, pafted over 
ihtBdwtx Pharibus, which comes from under a Rocky 
Mountain, not in fmall Springs, but in one continued 
Channel, and taking its Courfe through the Vineyards 
and Corn-fields to Pornovo, runs unto Lariffa, of which 
we fiiall hereafter fay more. 
In our Return we left the Road about Kaplanlih, tak- 
ing that of Skopia (the Scupi of Ptolemy) call’d Ufeopia 
by the Purks, being a large and trading City. It is fea- 
ted on the Frontiers of Mcefta and Macedonia, at the Foot 
of Mount Orhelus, upon the River Vardar or AVius % 
in a pleaffnt fertile Country intermix’d with Hills and 
Plains. It was formerly an Archbifhop’s See : Above 
700 Tanners live here, who make mofl; excellent Lea- 
ther. There are feveral handfome Sepulchral Monu- 
ments, and fair Houfes here, as that of the Cadih, and 
of the Emir, or one of Miahomefs Kindred, whofe Fa- 
ther was in great Veneration in thefe Parts. In the 
Court-Yard of the Houfe of Emir you fee a Fountain 
built like an old Caftle with Towers, out of the Tops 
whereof fpring the Water. The Floors in their beft: 
Houfes are generally covered with Carpets, and the 
Roofs divided into T riangles, and many other Figures 
well painted, and richly gilt, but without any Figures 
of Animals or Vegetables. The Bezaftan, or chief Mar- 
ket-place here, is covered with Lead, and the trading 
Streets with Wood; it contains alfo a confiderable Num- 
ber of Purkijh Mofques, The moil fplendid of all ftands 
upon a Hill, having a fpacious Portico, fuftain’d by 
four Marble Pillars ; near it is an Arch, with a Brook 
running under it, which feems to be an ancient Piece ; 
Dr. B R o w N e’j Travels 
