772, ' Dr. Brown 
far from whence flood the ^XitxtvX Argos P alajgkujn^ from 
whence the Argonauts fail’d for Colchos ; by this Way the 
Grand Seignior receives his Intelligence from Candia^ and 
\i\%Afiatick African Dominions. Near the Promon- 
tory Sefias (not far frpm hence) Xerxes loft 50Q Ships, 
by a Tempeft from the Eaft. 
j8. As the Grand Seignior MohammedlY . went often 
abroad a Shooting and Hawking, attended by a great 
Number of his Huntfmen, Falconers, and others, and 
alfo went often to the great Mofque, I had many Op- 
portunities of feeing him j among the reft, I took once 
a full View of him, as he was coming out of the Palace 
to go to the Mofque. Before the Palace I faw feveral 
very fine Horfes richly accoutred, which were rode by 
fome of his Attendants in the Court-Yard, till he look- 
ing out of the Window, made a Sign to let them know 
which he would make ufe of ; he no fooner appear’d 
without, but he v/as received with great Acclamations, 
and very low Reverences, both near and at a Diftance •, 
the Streets were made clean, and a Janizary placed at 
every Corner, to remove any Thing which might be in 
the Way. The Chiaufes lead the Van on Horfcback, 
thefe were follow’d by twenty four Perfons of Quality 
• on Foot*, on each Side of his Horfe walk’d two Jani- 
zaries, with large fpreading white Feathers of a Fathom 
high, faften’d to their Caps •, and thefe fhaking as they 
walk’d along, were high enough both to fhacle and 
fan his Face. After him follow’d many very fine lead 
Horfes, and feveral Perfons carrying Cufhions and Pil- 
lows to the Mofque. 
The Grand Seignior was then fcarce thirty Years of Age, 
well proportion’d, but fomewhat fhort-neck’d, inclining 
to Fatriefs, of a fallow Complexion. For the reft, he 
was of a ftrong Conftitution, delighted in hard Riding , 
his Countenance fomewhat ftern, yet he would invite 
with a kind Look, People to approach him. I heard of 
no Phyfician of Note he had about him j but the Grand 
Vizier had taken feveral Chriflian Surgeons along with 
him to Candia. The Caimachan, or Deputy to the Vi- 
zier, had the chief Management of Affairs of State, in 
the Abfence of Achmet the Prime Vizier. I went with 
Ofman^ Chiaus, to fee his Palace, which was a fine 
Strudlure ; where I heard ten Men playing all at once in 
a high Room, upon large Wind-Inftruments, which they 
do at certain Hours every Day, making a very loud, 
yet not unpleafant Noife, even to fuch as do not under- 
ftand their Mufick. 
The Sultana was at the fame Time at Lariffa, by Birth 
iSiCandiot^ and much beloved by the Grand Seignior; 
fhe was but low of Stature, and fomewhat mark’d with 
the Small-Pox ; being then big with Child, great Pre- 
parations were made for her Delivery at Monafter, a 
pleafant Town m Macedonia^ the Roads were then a 
Plaining, and the Hills laying level, with broad Bridges 
bver the Rivers, for her more convenient Palfage thi- 
ther. The Grand Seignior’s Son, who was with her 
there, was then fix Years of Age. 
I heard, at feveral different Times, the Purks fing 
their ufual Songs, and, among the reft, one concerning 
that famous Jewifh Impoftor Sahata Sevi^ whom Cujfum 
JBaJfa forced to turn Yurk. This Cujfum Bafa is a Man 
of great Reputation at the Ottoman Court, and much 
Valued for his Skill in Phyfick, (a Thing not much 
known in Yurkey.) Fie was formerly Vizier of Buda, 
and is now Vizier of Erzrum^ upon the Frontiers of 
Georgia and Perfia^ and married to one of the Grand 
Seignior’s Sifters. Of Padre Ottomanno^ a Dominican 
Friar, whom I had feen at and who was thought 
to be the Grand Seignior’s Brother, I could learn no- 
thing here. 
19. The Wintering of that vaft Army of Xerxes un- 
der Mardonius^ is an undeniable Teftimony of the an- 
cient Fertility of Tbejfaly, which corttinues to this Day ; 
for notwithftanding the vaft Concourfe of People, oc- 
cafioned by the Sultan’s Refidence here, every Thing 
was fo cheap, that one might dine at a common Vic- 
tualling-houfe, upon roafted and boil’d, and have good 
Sherbet to drink, for Six- pence a Head ; and an Offi- 
cer arm’d with a Club, with twenty-four Followers, 
kept the Streets fo quietj that not the leaft Difturbance 
e’j Yraveh, Book II. 
was to be heard of there In the Night-time. The hot 
Weather which happened in September^ 1669, occafion- 
ed frequent Fevers and Agues in thofe Parcs, as about 
the fame time other Parts of Europe were much infect- 
ed with Quartan Agues. It being then their Vintage, 
I faffed of their Muff, or new Wine ; and I obferved 
that fome of the zealous Turks, who would not drink 
Wine, yet would take a plentiful Draught of this with 
a great Deal of Eagernefs. 
During the hot Seafon, we ufed frequently to vifit the 
Barber, who perform’d his Bufinefs very well, and 
would trim every Man according to his Country Fa- 
fhion. The Greeks always leave a bare Place of the 
Bignefs of a Crown-piece, on the Top of their Heads, 
round which they let the Hair grow to the Breadth of 
two Inches, and fhave all the reft of their Head. The 
Croatian ffaavcs his Head on one Side, and on the other 
lets his Hair grow as long as it will. The Hungarian 
keeps only a Fore-top, the reft being fhaved all over 
the Head. The Polanders done fhave their Heads, but 
keep their Hair cut fo as it comes down to the Middle 
of the Forehead, and the Middle of the Ears. The 
Turk fhaves his whole Head, leaving only a Lock upon 
his Crown. The Franks wear their Hair long, without 
fliaving their Heads, but to give no Offence to the 
Turks, generally turn up their Hair under their Caps i 
but the Greek Prieffs keep and wear their Hair long. 
The Party to be fhaved fits low, fo that the Barber, 
who lays on much Soap, takes of a great deal of Hair 
at once, and finiffres the whole Bufinels in a few Strokes, 
A Veffel of Water, with a Cock, hangs commonly 
over the Plead, of thofe that are to be fhaved, fo that 
the Barber lets out the Water upon them as he pleafes. 
I faw accidentally in one of the Barbers Shops of La~ 
riffa, an ancient and very noble Monument, or Tomb- 
ffone, of a Jafper- green Colour, through the Top-ftone 
of which the Barber had caufed a Hole to be made to 
ferve him for a Ciftern. 
In the Market-place fit certain Money-changers, who 
exchanged our Duckats, and Rix-Dolars, into Medines, 
Afpers, and five Sols Pieces, of which great Plenty is 
to be found in thofe Parts. All the Trading Streets 
w^ere cover’d with Wood ; their Shops were generally 
fmall, butw^eJl enough provided, the Shopkeeper fitting 
like a Taylor, and felling his Wares to the Buyers, 
who commonly remain Handing in the Street : Such 
Commodities as are not to be had in the Shops, are 
cry’d about the Streets by a Man on Horfeback, who 
at the fame Time tells the People what Price they are 
to be fold at. 
20. I had been much pleafed with the Sight of the 
Teveral Stables of Chriftian Princes, as that of tht French 
King’s, the Vice- Roys of Naples, the Eletffor of Saxonyh 
at Drefden, and that of Count IValkfiein’?^ at Prague , 
but for Horfes, I muff confefs none of thefe could com- 
pare to thofe I faw at Lariffa, being chofen from among 
the bell cf the Turkijh Empire, fo richly equipp’d with 
moff ftately Saddles and Bridies fet with precious Stones, 
and fo tracffable, that I could not but be furprized thereat. 
I faw among the reft fome Tartarian Horfes, valued 
chiefly for their Hardinels and Swiftnefs, being for the 
reft rather unfightly, than beautiful. Some of the 
richeft Greek Merchants are well verfed in the Italim 
Tongue, which is preferr’d here before either Latin or 
French. The Jews of Macedonia, Servia, and BuU 
garia, commonly fpeak Spanif 5 and thofe of Hun- 
gary, High-Dutch, for Conveniency in Difeourfing with 
Strangers. 
At our being there theSeafon was fo parching, that evefi 
the greateft Rivers were very low, and the fmall ones 
quite dry, except one, I took Notice of about ftVen 
Miles on this Side Tornovo, which continued to flow 
plentifully in one copious Channel from under the Rocks, 
This general Drought hovv?ever of the Country, puk me 
in Mind of the Deluge which happened in the Time 
of Deucalion King of Thejfaly (as fometimes we are apt 
to remember Things by Contraries,) when by the Stop* 
ping of the Current of the River Peneus (info which 
moft of the others run, ) the whole Country of Thejfaly^ 
which is plain, and enclos’d on all Sides bv Hills, wa& 
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