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1 
A. 
Dr> B R o w N l^ravels: 
Book 
Face from wKst they h3.vc done in Jincient Times ; the 
many Incurfions of barbarous Nations, and the late 
Conqueft by the having laid defolate many great 
and once famous Cities, and exchanged the Names of 
the reft, not leaving even the ancient Names of the 
Rivers, which generally are beyond the Fate of Towns. 
Thus the Rivers of Macedonia, the Axius, TLrigonus and 
Jliaomon, which I pafsM, have now Names which have 
not the leaft Affinity to thofe of former Ages. The 
famous River Peneus has undergone the fame Fate, as 
well as Apidanus, Enipeus, and othejs that join their 
Waters with it. Larijfa is calFd Jem-Sahar by the 
^urks •, and Eheffdly, Comenolitari. 
24. It feems'to be one of the greateft Delights that 
attends Travelling, to behold, as one moves along, a 
different Face of Things in Flabits, Diet, Manners, Cuf- 
toms and Language : Of this we had our full Share af- 
ter we had travelled a Day’s Journey beyond Raah and 
Gomorrah ; for before we reach’d Buda,'W& enter’d upon 
fo different a Courfe of Life, erpecially as to Habit and 
Manners, (which with fome fmall Alteration, continues 
to the utmoft Part of Afm, viz. China) that we thought 
ourfelves in a Manner in a new World. Though we 
were provided with good Paffes, and had taken all 
other imaginable Care for our, Security, yet we were not 
without Fear from the Hujfars, who knowing all the 
By-ways, commonly rob all they meet with as far as 
the Bridge of EJfeck-, neither were we in lefs Fear of 
the Cingars or Gypftes, who are noted here for their Rob- 
beries •, though they live in the Towns of Himgaria, 
Servia, Bulgaria, Macedonia (and fome alfo in EheJIaly) 
by Labour and handy-craft Trades. They are gene- 
rally fuppofed to have their Original from the Frontiers 
of Wallachia. They have a Way of Colouring their 
Hands and Feet of a reddifti Colour, with Cnd, and 
fome of the Women colour the Extremities of their 
Hair alfo. 
We were in no fmall Danger of being robb’d as we 
travel’d from Belgrade into Servia, by three Horfemen, 
who coming up with us difeharged their Piftols j had 
it not been for our Chiaus, who knowing them to be 
Spahies, fhew’d them his Feather, bidding me to dif- 
charge at the fame Time my Piftol, to let them know 
that we were not unprovided ; whereupon they left us. 
Caravanfera^s-, or publick Inns, built by charitable Be- 
nefaftors to the Publick, for the Lodging of Travel- 
lers upon the Road, we feldom made Ufe of, the 
Rooms being very fpacious : We were but a few in 
Company, and not fitted for Places where we muft pro- 
vide every Thing one’s felf ; and therefore private 
Houfes were much more convenient for us : Befides, 
that the Situation of thofe Caravanferads is ofren-time 
fuch, as not to be fecure againft the Infults of Robbers, 
which are too frequent in thofe Parts, though punifhed 
with the greateft Severity for which Reafon, in moft 
dangerous Paffages, Drummers are appointed, who by 
Beat of Drum give Notice to Travellers, that the Roads 
are fafe. 
However, in the main, we had fufficient Accommo- 
dation, for from Gomorrah our Boat was towed by a 
Saick of twenty- four Oars, till we came to the Turkifh 
Frontier Town, where meeting with the Eurkijh Con- 
voy, our Boat was faften’d to their Saick with eighteen 
Oars, till we came to Buda, from whence we were car- 
ried in open Chariots, with two, three or four Horfes 
a-breaft, and that very fwifdy, through a very pleafant 
Country, to Belgrade, Here we were mounted on good 
fure-footed Florfes, which would carry one fafely twenty 
Miles in a Stage : They are very free, tender mouth’d, 
and tradtable •, which made the Owners not well plea- 
fed with our Spurs, which are feldom ufed by the 
Turks. They have generally a lighter and leffer Shoe 
than our Horfes, Moft of thefe Countries abound in 
good Horfes, which are very fleet ; but they never dock 
them, looking upon a long Tail as a great Ornament 
to a Horle, which they will handfomely make up, and 
.adorn to render it more fo. 
Tht B a [fa of Temefivar prefented Ragotzi with a 
Horfe, which he flighting, cut off the Horfe’s Ears, 
Main and Tail, and fo fent him back again ; which 
the Bajfa took for fuch an Affront, that he did not de- 
flft till he brought about the Ruin of Ragotzi, as hs 
might have expeeffed. They do not feed them out of 
high Mangers or Racks, but lay their Hay before them 
almoft even with the Ground. 
In the Caravanferad s they tie their Horfes to Rings, 
faften’d to the Side of a long Place a little elevated, 
upon which the Travellers fleep as they can, their Hay 
being laid fomewhat lower at the F’cet, whereon them 
Horfes feed. They plough generally with Oxen and 
Buffelo’s, and have great Variety of Ploughs and Carts, 
fome whereof I faw in Macedonia with Vvdieels of folid 
Wood, in the whole Piece, perhaps the better to refift 
the rough and ragged Ways of a rocky Country. W<i 
obferved among the People in general, that they will 
be_ much obliged with a fmall Prefent, fuch as Knives, 
Sciffers, and other Toys nay, we gave fometimes a 
Glove to one, and the Fellow to another, which they 
took very kindly. Thus the Bulgarian Women would 
be well pleafed with a fmall Piece of Silver Foreign 
Coin, and put it as an Ornament to their Head-drefs, 
though they had others of much more Value there be- 
fore. 
25. In our Journey about the Mountains of Servia., 
we were in great Danger from Wolves, efpecially in 
the Woods, where they would come very near us in the 
Night-time *, fo that we were forced to remain clofe 
together, and keep our Fire-Arms in Readinefs : Nei- 
ther were the Dogs lefs troublelome ; for no fooner 
came we near a Town, or left it, but they would eithe.? 
meet or follow us at a confiderable Diftance, and wdtk 
Barking and Biting our Horfes Legs, be very offenfive, 
I remember, that at my coming lo Gomorrah, which 
happened to be about Midnight, we were fo cioldy 
purfued by the Dogs, which were ftiur out of Doors on 
Purpofe, that we were forced to feck for Shelter in the 
Guard-houfe. 
The Fear, in which the poor Chriftians live in thefe 
Parts, could not but move us greatly to Compafilon, where' 
we faw them retreat to the Woods, at the firft Sight, to 
avoid us ; which made us many Times ride after them 
to undeceive them. But the miferable Condition of die 
Slaves and Captives is almoft beyond exprcffing, cfpe- 
dally if you conflder the Variety of their hard Fare, 
and the odd Chances that reduce them into this mifer- 
able State ; fome by Treachery, fome by Chance of 
War, others being ftole by the Tartars ; among all 
which, thofe who belong to the Grand Seignior leeim 
to be in the worft Condition, as being paft all Hopes 
of being redeemed or exchanged. Of thde I met 
with one at Egrihugia in Macedonia, who, though he had 
a Tole-Table Place at the Poft-hdufe, yet was quite de- 
jeded upon that Account. In Thejfaly I met with an 
Hungarian, who being taken at the Battle of Barchan„ 
firft ferved a Turk, and afterwards was fold to a Jew 
with whom he endured great Hardffiip ; but being at 
laft fold to an Armenian, he behaved himfelf fo well, 
that his Mafter gave him his Freedom, and coming to 
Larijja, he was entertain’d in the Imperial Rcfldcnt’s 
Service. He was a very worthy Pv.rlon, who had re- 
tain’d his Chriftianity amiong all thefe Changes of For- 
tune. He fpoke Hungarian, 'Sclavonian, Turkijh, Arme- 
nian, and Latin, and, notwithftanding his flavifli Con- 
dition, had been fo curious as to take Draughts of 
many Monafteries, Abbeys, Mofques, and other confi- 
derable Buildings in Armenia, Perjia and Turkey, which 
he fliew’d me. 'Fhe Turks make peculiar Obfervations 
upon the Captives of feveral Nations : Thus they fay, 
a Rujfian makes the beft Galley-Slave, a Georgian a good 
Courtier, and an Albanian a good Counlellor, lAc. I 
remember that the firft Time I went to have a Sight of 
the Grand Seignior, Ofman Chiaus kept backwards j ha- 
ving ask’d him the Reafon, he anfwct ’d, 1 take no great 
Pleafure in coming too near him. 
26. As the durks are commonly buried near the High- 
ways, Tombs' and Sepulchres are mep with every where 
hereabouts, but are not very fplcndid, conniiing only 
of a Stone at the Head, and another at the Foot, fome 
of 
