Chap. V. through Hungary* Thessaly, Macedonia* &c. 775 
of which are two, three or four Yards high ; fome have confequently are good Company, and can give a good 
a Turbant cut upon the Stone at the Head i fome alfo Account of Things. Ofman, Chiarn^ who was our Con- 
fer up two Pillars of Stone, and fometimes raife the Sc- diibior, and then of about fifty Years of Age, fpoke 
pulchres after the EuropeanVdi^hxo':)^ placing two Pillars three Languages, viz. ThtTurkifo, Sclavonian, and Iia- 
^ I , — ^ ^ .-V » ■* e'. y'A y\ 
upon them, one 
lian^ Was a brave honeft Fellow, who had travelled thro' 
the greateft Part of the Grand Seignior’s Do minions, 
and proving old, had feated himfdf at Buda as a Chiaus 
to the Vizier : He took a very obliging Farewell of me 
at Buda^ conducing me without the Gates, with many 
a Dios and hearty Wiflies of a happy Return into my 
own native Country •, and I muft fpeak well in Honour 
of the Turks., that in all my Journey I met with very 
Civil Ufage from them ; I never came into a Room 
where the Turks were fitting, but they would give the 
firft Salute ; and ddiring me to fit down', offer fome 
at the Head and the ocher at the 
Feet. Of thefe I faw feveral at Scopia •, but their neat- 
eft Way is to eredt a Pavillion, fupported by four Pil- 
l^rs 
As we travePd through Servia., I faw to the South of 
Jagodna^ on the Side of a Hill, a ^urkijh Tomb of 
four Yards long, which, the Chiaus told me, was the 
Tomb of one 3 their Saints. As I could fcarce con- 
ceive that the Length of a IVXan fhould extend to that 
Fleinht, fo it put me in Mind of what I once heard 
MrJVood fay upon this Account, viz. That he had leen _ ^ ^ 
feveral Graves in the Southern Parts of America., of four or Tobacco, except that now and then the Boys, 
Yards in Length ; and having never met with an Ame- 
rican that came near that Height, he had the Curiofity 
to have one of the Sepulchres opened from one End to 
the other, wherein he found a Man and a Woman fo 
placed, that the Woman’s Plead lay at the INPan s Peet, 
and confequently required a Grave of four \ards long. 
I thought I might, without the leaft Hazard, relate this 
upon the Credi? of a Perfon, who has given fufficient 
Proofs of his Ingenuity to the World, by his accurate 
Maps of the Streights of Magellan, its Elands, and 
and fome few of the Scum of the People, would cail’iis 
long hair’d Infidels : The worft Language I ever re- 
ceived was from a Jew at Larijfa, whom I had. em- 
ploy’d to buy lome Things; but had it not been for 
the Grand Seignior’s Refidence in that City, fome of 
the Turks that were prefent would have taught him bet- 
ter Manners. 
I found the Turks much addided to taking of Tobacco 
in thole Parts ; they carried it in little Bags by their 
Sides, and ufed to take it in Pipes of an Ell lono, made 
the Coaft from the Plate River to Baldivia in the South of Reed, with an Earthen Bowl at the End, lay 
uig one 
Sea. 
In our Travels in thefe Parts, we met often with Tur- 
Bfh Fairs, which are kept in fome large Ground, en- 
clofed and divided into Streets, where you may furnifti 
yourfelf with all Manner of Things not to be feen in 
thefe Weftern Parts, and have Mufick at a cheap Rate; 
which, though none of the beft, yet ferves to pafs away 
the Time pleafantly enough. We had the good For- 
End on the Ground, and holding the other in their 
Mouths. I was not much ufed to Tobacco, yet out of 
Complaifance, I would now and then take a Pipe with 
them after their Manner, which, by reafon of the Length 
of the Pipe, I found cool, and Ids diftafieful than ainy 
other. I was alfo much taken with the Neatnefs and 
Cleanlinefs of the Turks, and with their waftaing of their 
Feet, Hands, and Faces ; I ufed to be mightily pleafed 
tune, in all this Journey, to light upon no more than to fee our Chiaus, at the 'light of a Spring, or any clear 
one Place infefted with the Plague, viz. - 2,1 Prejiina, in 
the Plains of Cojfova, which made us make what Hafte 
we could thence to a Gypfie^s Houfe among the Hills, 
where we met with a good Accommodation. The 
Turks were very w'ell pleafed to fee me take ouf my 
Water, alight and wafii himfelf. He was very curious 
in winding up his Turbant every Morning, and comb- 
ing of his Beard ; nay, they are fo nice, that they carry 
a Pitcher with Water with them ro the Houfe of Office; 
when they make Water, they reft upon one Knee, 
Pocket-Book, to write down fuch Obfervations as I had ftretching out the other Leg. 
Opportunity to make, and were much taken with my Juftice is a Virtue much encouraged, as well as re- 
Writino- fo quick with a Pen made of a Goofe Quill ; verenced, in Turkey', of this we had an Inftance in our 
whereas theirs are made of a Reed, wherewith they will Return to Egribugia in Macedonia ; for coming to Sa- 
write very well upon fmooth Paper. riggiole, we met by the Way with a Turkifto Aga, who 
27. I would often, as Occafion ferved, look into having a numerous Ar.tendance, had taken up all the 
fuch Maps as I had brought along with me ; whereat Horfes at Egribugia, fo that not being likely to be fup- 
the Chiaus fmiling, faid, There is but little Dependance plied, we refolved to continue our Journey upon the 
to be had on Maps, for they do not mention many fame Horfes to another Stage, finding our Horfes ftrong 
great Towns, and thofe they do are often not rightly and able enough to travel through the Plains we were to 
placed. We ChiauJJes, added he, who fpend our Days pafs ’■> but we were fcarce gbt without Egribugia, when 
in Travelling, take Notice of all Places, and know 
their Turkijh Names, are the beft Map-makers ; and I 
muft confefs, that in feveral Particulars I was convinced 
he fpoke nothing but the Truth ; for I found the Maps 
of Hungary not exad, and thofe of Servia, Bulgaria, 
Macedonia, 2.n<\ Thejfaly, vtvy imperfedl. In Upper Hun- Town without taking Horfes from him ;'"for winch he 
we were ftopt and carried by the Poft-mafter of the 
Place before the Cadi or Judge. He alledged againft 
us, that he being the Grand Seignior’s Servant, who had 
given him a certain Allowance for every Horfe he pro- 
vided, we were injurious to him in paffing through the 
garia many Towns were omitted, and as many ill pla- 
ced ; in the Lower alfo not a few. The Danube feems 
to take too great a Circumference to the S. W. be- 
fore the Theyffe falls into it. In Servia I found Hijfar- 
gick placed a good Way from the Danube, which runs 
Juft by it. Procupia or Urchoop, and Lefcoe or Lefeevia, 
confiderable Towns (the laft upon the River Liperizza) 
defired Reparation. We found the Cadi fitting upon 
a Carpet in a contemplative Pofture, leaning his Elbow 
upon four or five Folio Books ; he commanded his 
Servants to give us each a Difh of Coffee, and asking 
what we had to fay in our Defence, the Chiaus urged, 
that we were going upon very urgent Bufinefs, had the 
Chaimacham^s Letters, and were employed by the Grand 
I found quite left out, as likewife Kaplanly or Tygrefs Seignior to the Emperor of Germany ; and that he was 
Town', \n Macedonia, Kupruly or Town, Urania, 
Pyrlipe, Comonava, Eccijfo Verbeni, as alfo the Lake of 
Petrijki ; and the Towns of OJirovo, Egribugia, Sariggiole, 
and Sarvizza, and the River Injecora near it ; thus I 
found neither Alejfon nor Tornova, though one of 
the moft confiderable Cities in Thejfaly ; and to con- 
fefs the Truth, he eh into Macedonia, will ne- 
ver be able to fquare the true Situations of Towns and 
the Chiaus to the Vizier of Buda, whither he was to 
conduiff us. 'Upon mature Deliberation, the Cadi Lid, 
The Chiaus muji not be Jlopped in his Journey, nor the 
Poji-majler unconjidepd ; and fo calling for the Poft- 
mafter’s Book, took his Pen, and fet down a Sultanine 
to be allowed him in his Accounts to i\\e Teftardar or 
Treafurer, and fo wifti’d us a good Journey. 
The Burks, it feems, make ufe of a Maxim contrary 
Rivers to their Pofitions and Deferiptions in Maps, not to that of Augujius, who thought fit to put fome Limit 
excepting thofe that have been very lately pu'olifhed to the Empire ; whereas their chief Aim is to 
Greece. enlarge their Dominions by new Conquefts ; unto which 
Ic was one of my chiefeft Pleafures in this Journey to their hardy Education, fober Courie of Life, and unli- 
converfe with Chiaufes, who have (if they are come to mited Obedience fo their Prince, deems to encQurag-e 
gny Age) feeh much of the World in their Travels, and them 
Certain it is, that their Aim is beyond Hungary ; 
and 
