Chap. 
jrom Aleppo to 
into the River Cafimir^ falfly call’d Eleutherus. We 
crois’d a Bridge, and pitch’d our Tents on its Bank. 
On the 26th, we paffed through the Valley Bocat^ 
and came to the Foot of Antilihanus \ and having pafs’d 
by feveral Villages, we went through a narrow Clift be- 
tween two rocky IVIountains to T^sfutis^ a Imall Caphar. 
On the 27th in the Morning, we came to the River 
Barrady, which fupplies all the Gardens and the City of 
Damafcus with Water ; we crofs’d over it at a Bridge, 
and our Road afcending brought us to the Brink of a 
high Precipice, from whence the Eurks fay their Pro- 
phet took a View of the City Damafcus^ which he found 
lo pleafaht and beautiful that he would not enter into 
it, becaufe he faid there is but one Paradife defigned 
for Man, and he wmuld not take his in this World. 
It is, as near as I could guefs, about two Miles long, 
but compafs’d with Gardens, extending to thirty Miles 
round •, in which are Fruit-trees of all kinds, and many 
Turrets, Steeples and Summer-houfes, peeping out from 
green Boughs. The River Barrady, near its Spring- 
head, is divided into three Streams, whereof the Mid- 
dle-moft runs diredlly to Damafcus^ and is diftributed 
in the City •, the other two are drawn round to the Bor- 
ders of the Gardens, fo that there is not a Garden but 
has a fine quick Stream, which ferves not only for 
■watering the Place, but for Fountains and other Wa- 
ter-works. 
This River was call’d by the Greeks and Romans 
Chryforrhoas ; but as for Arhana and Pharpar, Rivers of 
Damafcus, mention’d 2 Kings v. 12. I could find no 
Memorial of them, but doubtlefs they were Branches 
of the River Barrady. We continued a good While 
upon the Precipice, as being loth to leave fuch a charm- 
ing Profpeft, though it allur’d us down to the City. 
Coming down the Hill into the Plains, we were con- 
duced by a Janizary into the City, where we obferv’d 
the Garden-walls to be made of great Pieces of Earth, 
fafliion’d like Bricks, and hardned in the Sun, being 
two Yards long and one Broad, and half of one thick. 
We alfo obferv’d their Method of fcouring the Chan- 
nels : They put a great Bough of a Tree in the Water, 
and fatten it to a Yoke of Oxen, upon the Bough there 
fits a good heavy Fellow to prefs it down and drive the 
Oxen; and thus the Bough is 
dragg’d 
all 
along 
the 
Channel, and ferves at once both to cleanfe the Bottom 
and alfo to fatten the Water, for the greater Benefit 
of the Gardens. 
On the 28th, we walk’d out to take a View of the 
City : And here we found all the Houfes on the Out- 
fide built either with Sun-burnt Brick or Flemijh Wall, 
very coarfely daub’d over ; and fo by the Wafhing of 
the Houfes upon a violent Rain, the whole City becomes 
as it were a Quagmire. But the Gates in thefe Mud- 
walls are adorn’d with Marble Portals, carv’d and inlaid 
with great Beauty ; and on the Infide you find generally 
a fquare Court, beautified with Variety of fragrant 
Trees and Marble Fountains, and Duans floor’d with 
Marble, richly gilded, and furnifh’d with Carpets and 
Cufhions. 
In the next Place we went to fee the Church of St. 
John BapHJk, now converted into a Mofque, which no 
Chrittian may enter into. Its Gates are vattly large, 
cover’d with Brafs, ttainpt over with Arab Characters ; 
and within it is fpacious and lofty, built with three Ifles, 
between which are Rows of polifh’d Marble of great 
Beauty. In this Church is kept the Head of St. John, 
with other Reliques fo holy, that it is Death for a P'urk 
to go into the Room where they are. From the Church 
we went to the Cattle, and being admitted within the 
Gate we faw Store of ancient Arms and Armour, and 
among the rett a Roman Balitta, and a Chain cut in 
Stone. 
27. On the 29th, we went to fee the Cavalcade of 
the Hadgees fetting out for Mecca, which has been de- 
fcrib’d before. After this we went to fee the Ager Da- 
mafcenus^ a beautiful Meadow jutt without the City, di- 
vided in the Middle by a Branch of the River Barrady •, 
and it is 'a current Tradition here, that Adam was made 
of the Earth of this Field. Adjoining to this is a large 
Jerusalem. 855 
Hofpital, enclofed on the South-fide by a ftately Mofqucj 
and on the other Sides with Cloytters and Lodgings. 
Returning hence Homeward we faw a beautiful Bagnio^ 
and not far from it a Coffee-houfe capable of entertain- 
ing four or five hundred People. 
It had tw^o Quarters for Guefts, one for Summer, arid 
the other for Winter. That for Summer was a final! 
Eland, wafh’d round with a large fwift Stream, fliaded 
over Head with Trees, and with Mats when the Boughs 
fail. And here we found a Multitude of Turks in the 
Duans, regaling themfelves with Greens and Water, 
which two, with a beautiful Face, according to their 
Proverb, are a perfedl Antidote againtt Melancholy, 
In the Afternoon we went to vifit what they call the 
Houfe of Ananias, who rettor’d Sight to St. Rauf Adis 
ix. 17. And the Place fhown for it is a fmall Grotto^ 
containing a Chrijiian Altar and a Turkijh Praying-place,; 
feated too near one another. 
Our next Walk was out of the Eatt-gate, to fee the 
Place of St. PauBs Vifion, which is about half a Mile 
from the City, clofe by the Way-fide. A little nearer 
the City is a fmall Timber-ttrudture with an Altar in ir^ 
where you are told St. Paul retted fome time in his Way 
to the City after the Vifion, Adis ix. 8. Being return’d 
to the City we were fhown the Gate at which St. Paul 
was fet down in a Baficet, Adis ix. 25, This Gate is at 
prefent wall’d up, by Reafon of its Vicinity to the Eaft- 
Gate, which renders it of little Ufe. In the City we 
faw the Patriarch of it, who told me there were more 
than twelve Hundred of the Greek Communion in that 
City. 
On the 30th, we went to vifit the Gardens, and 
fpent a Day in one of them, where we found a pleafant 
Summer-houfe, with a plentiful Stream of Water run- 
it, and the Garden thick fet with Fruit- 
ing 
through 
trees. In vifiting thefe Gardens, the Franks are oblig’d 
either to walk on Foot, or ride on Affes, which ttand 
there ready to be hir’d ) for the Turks will not allow 
them to ride a Horfe. May i. we fpent in another 
Garden, whofe Summer-houfe was more fplendid, and 
had greater Variety of Fountains. 
On the 2d, Some of us went to Sidonaia, a Greek 
Convent, about four Hours from Damafcus to the North- 
ward, and by the Way we faw on the Right-hand a 
very high Hill, reputed the fame on which Cain and 
Abel offer’d Sacrifices, and where the latter was flain by 
the form.er. Sidonaia is fituated at the further Side of 
a large Vale, on the Top of a Rock, which would be' 
inacceffible but for the Steps that are cut in it all the 
Way up. It is fenc’d at Top with a Wall (which en- 
ciofes the Convent, which \yas at fir ft founded by Juf 
tinian, and is at prefent pofTefs’d by twenty Greek 
Monks, and forty Nuns, who live promifcuoufly to- 
gether. 
Upon this Rock, and in a little Compafs round about 
it, are no lefs than fixteen Churches or Oratories, de- 
dicated to feveral Names, i. To "S>t.John. 2. To St. 
Paul. 3. To St. Thomas. 4. To St. Babylas. 5. To 
St. Barbara. 6 . To St. Chriflopher. 7. To St. Jofeph. 
8 . To St. Lazarus. 9. To the bletted Virgin. lO. To 
St. Demetrius, ii. To St. Saba. 12. To St. Peter. 
13. To St. George. 14. To All-Saints. 15. To the 
Afcenfion. 16. To the Transfiguration of our Lord ^ 
from all which we may conclude, that this Place was 
highly efteem’d for Holinefs. 
In the Chapel here made Ufe of by the Convent for 
daily Service, they pretend to a great Miracie> 
of which they give this Account. In this Church they 
had once a little Picture of the blefifed Virgin, very fa- 
mous for the many Cures and BkfTings granted to Sup- 
plicants. This Pidture was ftole away by a facrilegious 
Rogue, who had not kept k long but it turn’d into a 
Body of Flefh 5 which wonderful Event ttruck him 
with fuch Remorfe, that he carried back the Prize, and 
begg’d Pardon for his Crime. The Monks having: 
recover’d fo great a Jewel, to fecure it for the future, 
laid it in a Chett of Stone, and placing it in a little 
Cavity behind the high Altar, fix’d an Iron Grate be- 
fore it. 
Upon 
