Chap. III. from Musco 
7. On the 27th of OSlober we reached fome Watch- 
Towers on the Pinacles of the Rocks, from whence 
we got Sight of the Zagan Crim, that is, the great Wall, 
which we came to on the fame Day, This really feems 
to be one of the Wonders of the World. About five 
hundred Fathom from this famousWall is a Valley, each 
Side of which was provided with a Battery of hewn Stone^ 
from one of which to the other a Wall about three Fa- 
thom high is erefted, with an open Entrance. Faf- 
fing through this Fore- wall, we came to the Entry of 
the great Wall, through a Watch-Tower, about eight 
Fathom high, arched over with hewn Stone, and pro- 
vided with maffy Doors ftrengthened with Iron ; The 
Wall runs from Eaft to Weft, acrofs the Valley and up 
extraordinary high Rocks, and about five hundred Fa- 
thom diftant from the other hath on the Rocks on 
each Side of it a Tower built on it. The Foot of this 
Wall was of large hewn Quarry-ftone for about a Foot 
high, and the remaining upper Part was compofed of 
Brick and Lime, but, as far as we can fee, the Whole 
was formerly built with the fame Stone. Within this 
firft Port we came into a Plain full one hundred Fa- 
thom broad ; after which we came to another Guard- 
Port, which had a Wail on each Side, and like the firft 
Wall, was carried quite acrofs the Vale ; and this, as 
well as the firft Port, was guarded by a Watch of Fifty 
'Men. On the firft or great Wall ftands an Idol-Tem- 
ple, with the Enfigns of the Idol and the Emperor 
flying on the Top of it. The Wall is full fix Fathom 
high, and four thick, fo that fix Horfemen may eafi- 
Jy ride a-breaft on it, and was in as good Repair as if 
it had not been ereefted above twenty or thirty Years 
fince ; no Part of it being fallen, nor annoyed by 
the leaft Weed or Filth, as other old Walls are ob- 
ferved to be. 
8. After this laft Watch-Tower, we came into a 
Vale about three hundred Fathom over, on which grew 
fome large Willows, and on the Weft-fide, at the Foot 
of the Rock, was a magnificent Temple ; a Mufquet- 
fliot from whence we came to the City of Galchan, which 
is encompaffed with a high quadrangular Wall, but is not 
very populous. Here I was welcomed by the Difcharge of 
three Iron Guns, and continued all Night in the Suburbs. 
The Streets were fo befet with the Concourfe of People, 
that it was difficult to pafs them, being drav/n together 
by the Sound of our Trumpets and Bagpipes, which 
feemed very ftrange to them, they never having heard 
any fuch Mufick before. In the Evening the Mandaryn 
fent to compliment me, and invited me to fup with 
him at the Royal Palace, where the Emperor refides 
when he pafles this Way. Upon my coming thither, 
befides the Mandaryn^ I found there the Governor and 
the greateft Officers pf the City 5 and after we had 
drank fome Diflies of Tea, I was entertained with a 
noble Supper, all the Adion of a Play, and a Speci- 
men of Mufick, after their Faffiion, confifting of all 
Sorts of Kettle-Drums and ftringed Inftruments, which 
made a hideous, confufed Noife ; fo that I could have 
rather wifhed myfelf at a Diftance, than near it. They 
fate on Stools by Couples, no more than two at each 
Table. Thefe Tables were finely japanned, and co- 
vered with exquifite Needle-work Silk Carpets. Tiiey 
ufe nq Table-cloths, Napkins, Knives, Forks or Plates ; 
but only two fmall round Sticks of Ivory or Ebony 
were laid upon the Table, which was its whole Furni- 
ture ; but indeed they are fo wonderfully expert in the 
Ufe of thefe Sticks, that they can with them take up 
any Thing, though of the Size of a Pin’s Head. They 
hold them in the Right-Hand betwixt the Thumb and 
the two Fore-Fingers. All their Viduals, whether 
Soops, Rice, ftewed or roafted Meats, are brought to 
Table in China Veffels, and not in Diffies : Each Sort 
of Roaft is ferved up alone, cut into fmall Pieces ; but 
the Banquet of Sweet-meats and Fruit was diflied up in 
little China Bafins. Their Soops and Pottages are; ex- 
traordinary grateful to the Tafte, as being enriched 
with very delicious Herbs and Spices, as Mace, Cin- 
namon, CPc. The Herb they boil in their Soops grows 
on Rocks in the Sea, and, being boiled, appears fli- 
my, and when dried is green, as it alfo looks in the 
VoL. II. N® CXXXIV, 
vY Chin A. 939 
Soops. This Plant hath no Leaves, but grows with 
interwoven Branches, and is of a very agreeable Tafte, 
and efteemed very wholefome 5 fome think it to be 
' abortive Satyrion or Birds-Neft. They alfo drefs ftrip- 
ped Shrimps, and Pigeons Eggs with the Whites tinged 
red and yellow •, they have befides fine Salleting, 
efpecially Endive cut in fmall long Slips, being very 
agreeable both to Tafte and Smell ; this they lay up- 
permoft in their former Dilh. Their Soops are not 
to be mended by our German Cooks, or perhaps any 
other. , 
Inftead of Saltfdlers, they have fmall Saucers oF 
Pickle or Brine, into which the Meat is dipped. By 
reafon they ufe no Spoons, each Peafon takes the Cup 
of Soop fet before him, and fups it up-, but that Part, 
which is too grofs, he guides to his Mouth with the 
round Sticks, that nothing may run befides or foul their 
Cloaths, ufing no Napkins, though indeed their Hand- 
kerchiefs hang by their Sides, with which they only 
wipe their Mouths. 
In the publick Eating-houfes or Ordinaries the Car- 
ver ftands at the Table with the Roaft-Meat before him, 
which, in Prefence of the Guefts, he cuts into fmali 
Bits, puts them into little Cups, and fets them on the 
Table. This Carver makes Ufe of no Cloth to wipe 
his Hands, but cuts off what is beft dreffed round the 
Bone as long as he can, and tears off the Remainder 
with his Hands, which are greafed up to the Elbows 
fo plentifully, that the Sight of them alone is enough 
to give the Speeftators a Meal, more efpecially fuch as 
have fqueamifh Stomachs. 
Their Drinks are Brandy, which they call Jrakka, and 
a Sort of Wine they drink warm, called Tarafu, which 
is a Decoftion of green or half-ripe Rice ; aqd after ic 
hath been kept a Year or two, in Colour, Tafte, and 
Strength, is very like the beffi Rhenijh Wine. 
Whilft we were at Table, the Maftef of the Band of 
Players upon his Knees prefenced the Mandaryn with a 
Book of red Paper, containing a Lift of Plays written 
in black Tetters which the Mandaryn perufing, told 
him which Play he chofe ; after this, bowing his 
Head to the Earth, he arofe and began the Perform- 
ance immediately. 
Firft _ entred a very beautiful Lady, magnificently 
dreffed in Cloth of Gold, adorned with Jewels, and a 
Crown on her Head, finging her Speech, with a charm- 
ing Voice, and agreeable Motion of the Body, play- 
ing with her Hands, in one of which fhe had a Fan. 
The Prologue thus performed, the Play followed, 
the Story of which turned upon a Chinefe Emperor 
long fince dead, who had behaved himfelf well to- 
wards his Country, and in Honour of whofe Me- 
mory the Play was written. Sometimes he appear- 
ed in Royal Robes, with a flat Ivory Sceptre in his 
Hand, and fometimes his Officers Ibewed themfelves 
with Enfigns, Arms, and Drums, and by Inter- 
vals a Sort of Farce was atffed by their Lacqueys, whofe 
antick Drefs, and painted Faces, were as well as any 
I have feen in Europe \ and, as far as was interpreted 
to me, their Farce was very diverting, efpecially Parc 
of it, which reprefented a Perfon who had in his Mar- 
riage been cheated by a debauched Wife, and fancying 
her conftant to him, had the Mortification to fee ano- 
ther make Love to her before his Face. They alfo, 
according to their Manner, danced to the Lute ; and 
after three feveral Plays were ailed, and ic grew to- 
wards Midnight, I cook my Leave, rid Home, fet for- 
wards on my Journey the following Day, and over a 
floating wooden Bridge paffed the River Lungo, which 
comes from the Weft, and flows South-Eaftward into 
the Sea of Corea. 
9. Upon my Arrival at the City of Xantunnung., near 
that of Lania, we were welcomed by the Difeharoe of 
feveral Guns, and lodged in the Suburbs. The Manda- 
ryn fent to compliment and' invite me to Supper, in 
Compliance to which, in Company with the Gover- 
nor and principal Officers of the City, I went accord- 
ingly, where I was fplendidly entertained at the E.mpe- 
ror’s Country Palace, and again diverted with Farces. 
On the fame Day we palled the Xungo^ which alfo rifes 
