Our Nursery Trees Are Seleoted 
Stook 
Guaranteed True to Name 
FRUIT TREES, SMALL FRUITS, GRAPEVINES, 
STRAWBERRIES, ETC. 
Do you know the secret of growing big crops of large, luscious fruit? To be successful you must, 
above all things, start right. Get large, strong, healthy, standard-sized stock. This applies to small 
fruits, just as much as it does to Apple, Cherry, Peach, Pear, Plum Trees, etc. Our principal 
stocks of fruit trees, small fruits, etc., embrace only those varieties which have been well proved, 
and can be recommended as the best now in cultivation. We cannot attempt to give complete direc- 
tions on all points connected with tree planting, but simply a few hints on the more important opera- 
tions. Transplanting to be considered under the following heads: 
BUERRE DE ANJOU FEAR 
THE PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 
For fruit trees soil should be dry, either natural or made so by thorough drainage, as they will 
not live or thrive on a soil constantly saturated with stagnant moisture. It should also be well pre- 
pared On new, fresh lands, manuring will be unnecessary, but on land exhausted by cropping fer- 
tilizers must be applied, either by turning in heavy crops of clover, or well decomposed manure or com- 
post. To insure a good growth of fruit trees, land should be in as good condition as for a crop of 
wheat, corn or potatoes. 
THE PREPARATION OF THE TREES 
In regard to this important operation, there are more fatal errors committed than in any other. 
As a general thing trees are planted in the ground precisely as they are sent from the nursery. In. 
moving a tree, no matter how carefully it may be done, a portion of the roots are broken and destroyed, 
and consequently the balance that existed in the structure of the tree deranged. This must be restored 
by proper pruning, adapted to the size, form and condition of the tree as follows: 
STANDARD ORCHARD TREES 
These, as sent from the nursery, vary from 4 to 6 feet in height, with naked stems or trunks and 
a number of branches at the top forming a head. These branches should all be cut back to within 
three or four buds of their base. This lessens the demand upon the roots, and enables the remaining 
buds to push with vigor. Cut off smoothly all bruised or broken roots up to the sound wood. In case of 
older trees of extra size, the pruning must be in proportion; as a general thing it will be safe to 
shorten all the previous year's shoots to three or four buds at their base, and where the branches are 
very numerous some may be cut entirely. 
STAKING. If trees are tall and much exposed to the wind, a stake should be planted with the 
tree to which it should be tied in such a manner as to avoid chafing. A piece of matting or cloth may 
be put between the tree and the stake. 
MULCHING. When the tree is planted, throw around it as far as the roots extend, and a foot 
beyond, five or six inches deep, rough manure or litter. This is particularly necessary in dry ground, 
and is highly advantageous everywhere, both In spring and fall planting. It prevents the ground 
from baking or cracking, and maintains an equal temperature about the roots. 
AFTER-CULTURE. The grass should not be allowed to grow around young trees after being 
planted, as it stunts their growth. The ground should be kept loose and clean around them until, at 
least, they are of bearing size. 
