10 
WAR GARDENING 
should be used to produce plants for a hill 
of cucumbers, squash, melons or other 
“vining” plants which are started indoors, 
as these do not stand transplanting if the 
roots are disturbed. The pot or other 
holder may be set into the ground without 
disturbing the roots. Tomatoes, eggplants 
and beans may also be started in this way. 
WHEN TO PLANT 
When heavy frosts are over, plant early 
peas, onion sets and seed, early potatoes, 
kale, lettuce and spinach. All of these will 
stand light freezing except potato plants, 
which should be covered with dirt when 
frost threatens. 
When frosts are about over plant radishes, 
parsnips, carrots, beets, late peas and early 
sweet corn, and set out cabbage and cauli- 
flower plants. (An old and useful rule is 
to “plant corn when the oak leaves are the 
size of a squirrel’s ear”). 
When all frosts are over and apple trees 
are in bud, plant string beans and late 
sweet corn, and set out a few early tomato 
plants from the indoor boxes. 
When apple trees have fin- 
ished blossoming plant cucum- 
bers, melons, squashes, lima 
beans and set out the rest of 
the indoor plants. 
SEED BEDS 
Plants for second crops 
may be raised in an outdoor 
seed bed occupying small space. 
These plants may be grown 
while the space allotted to 
them in the garden plan is 
still in use for earlier crops. 
The rows of seed are not 
spaced so closely as in boxes used inside 
the house. If the plants crowd each 
other too much some of them may be re- 
moved and transplanted to another part of 
the garden. The seed bed plan is useful for 
such crops as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, 
late cabbage and the like. 
FALL PLANTING 
It is well to plant a fall garden of some 
crops, for in spite of the risk of injury by 
early frost the chances are in favor of satis- 
factory results. There can be no absolute 
rule as to the time of planting. The prob- 
able time of the first frost in each locality 
must be taken as a general guide. For 
planting in August, and possibly even in 
early September, the following vegetables 
may be grown: 
When first frost may be expected between 
September 15 and September 25: 
Lettuce, Spinach, Turnips, Parsley, Multiplier 
Onions and Turnips. (Kale and Radishes may be 
risked.) 
When first frost may be expected between 
September 20 and October 5 : 
Kale, Lettuce, Parsley, Multiplier Onions, Radishes, 
Spinach and Turnips. Beets and Chard for greens. 
When first frost may be expected between 
October 5 and October 15: 
Beets for canning. Carrots, Kale, Multiplier Onions, 
Spinach, Chard, Endive, Lettuce, Radishes and 
Turnips. 
When first frost may be expected between 
October 15 and October 25: 
Any of the vegetables mentioned in the preceding 
lists. (String beans may be risked.) 
LAYING OFF ROWS 
Straight rows add to the garden’s beauty 
and make cultivation easier. To make the 
rows straight stretch a stout string between 
stakes and follow it with the point of a hoe, 
with a wheel hoe, or with the end of the 
handle of the rake or hoe, to open up the row. 
The plan is suggested in Fig. 10. 
SUCCESSION OF CROPS 
Nature generously provides for more than 
one crop on the same soil. Vegetables which 
reach maturity early in the season should be 
followed by later crops of the same vegetable 
or by rotation of other kinds. Onions to be 
used green may be grown in rows which are 
to be occupied by late tomato plants, as a few 
of the onions may be removed to plant the 
tomatoes. Radishes mature early and as 
they are harvested the space may be used for 
cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts 
Fig. 10 — Straight rows add to the beauty of the garden and are easier to 
cultivate. The simplest way to lay them off is to stretch a line between 
two stakes and mark row with a hoe, hoe handle or stick. 
