32 
SEED SAVING 
They must be carefully stored during the 
winter. Root crops of late planting are most 
satisfactory for seed. Select those of the best 
shape, color and size. Cut off all but an inch 
or two of the leaf stems and store in a frost 
proof pit or cellar. If a cellar is used protect 
the roots from withering by putting them in 
sand, fine soil or sifted coal ashes. They 
should be kept very slightly moist. Do not 
store them in a heated cellar. 
Cabbage — In the fall select the best 
heads, pull up entire plants and store them in 
a trench. Next spring set out two or more 
plants as one plant alone rarely produces 
seed. It may be necessary to cut the head 
across the top to allow the seed stalk to 
develop. When the seed pods turn yellow 
cut off the stalk and lay it on paper in a cool 
shady place to dry; early morning is the best 
time to gather. Rub out the seed when the 
pod is dry. Do not grow kale, collards, 
cabbage or kohlrabi — any two of them — in 
the same garden, as they will cross-fertilize. 
Onions — Seed bearing bulbs should be well 
rooted. In the fall plant them 3 inches deep. 
As cold weather approaches cover with earth 
to protect them from freezing. In the spring 
remove the ridges. The seed stalks should 
be supported with stakes. When most of the 
seed is ripe cut out the seed stalks, dry in the 
sunshine and rub out the seed. 
Parsnips — These may be left in the ground 
all winter. In the spring plant selected roots 
3 to 5 feet apart in row. When seed are ripe 
cut seed stalk and dry. 
STORAGE OF SEED 
Put heavy seed, such as beans and peas, in 
cloth bags; smaller seed in paper bags or 
envelopes. Label each bag carefully, inside 
and out, as to contents. To protect seed 
from mice put the bags in perforated tin 
boxes. A bread box makes an ideal storage 
place for seed. An upstairs room or attic 
room, provided it is not warm, is a very 
good place in which to store seed. The room 
must be dry and well ventilated to prevent 
molding. 
Stored seed should be occasionally ex- 
amined for insects. If insects or weevils are 
present fumigate with carbon bisulphid, a 
liquid which vaporizes, producing a gas 
heavier than air. To fumigate, place the 
seed in an air-tight receptacle and pour the 
carbon bisulphid over the seed. Open to air 
in from 24 to 36 hours. Use an ounce of 
carbon bisulphid to a bushel of seed. Car- 
bon bisulphid is very inflammable and fire 
or flame must not be taken near the fumi- 
gating receptacle. Disregard of this precau- 
tion will result in an explosion. 
This manual was prepared by the Commission’s experts and is based on their 
own research and experience, supplemented by information procured from the 
United States Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Colleges, Experiment 
Stations, and other sources. 
The National War Garden Commission, wishing to do all within its power to 
aid the War Industries Board in the very necessary economy in the use of paper, 
has limited the edition of this book and asks those who receive it in quantity to 
make the most careful distribution so that the book may reach the hands of 
none but those who will use it. IF THE INDIVIDUAL RECIPIENT CAN NOT 
USE THIS BOOK IT IS URGED THAT IT BE HANDED TO SOME ONE WHO 
WILL USE IT. 
TABLE OF CONTENTS 
Page 
Cold frame and Hotbed 7 
Community gardening 1 
Community storage 24 
Cultivation 11 
DISEASES AND INSECTS 16 
FERTILIZERS— 
Commercial 5 
Compost 5 
Green manure 6 
INDOOR PLANTING 9 
PLANTING— 
Continuous crops 11 
Fall crops 10 
Succession of crops 10 
Table for planting 23 
Time of planting 10 
POTATOES— 
Growing 12 
Diseases and insects 21 
Storage 28 
Page 
POTATOES, SWEET— 
Growing 13 
Storage 29 
SEED — 
Quantity to buy 9 
Saving for next year 30 
Testing before planting 8 
SPRAYING 16 
SOIL 5, 7 
STORAGE— 
Apples 29 
Cellar 24 
Outdoor cellar 27 
Pit 26 
Seed 32 
Various methods 27 
TOOLS 7 
