EVERGREEN LODGE, 
32 
must be cut away as soon as they appear from the surface of the ground up to 
say about twelve inches of the main stem. No shoots must be allowed to come. 
All above this must be encouraged, and as they grow out must be nipped off at 
the end, as you did the main shoot, always having due regard for the shape and 
proportions of your pla nts. Through the 
early Summer months, when they are 
growing rapidly, this nipping will need 
attention every week or ten days, and by 
a close observation of these rules you wiil 
have a nice shaped plant on one stem to 
reward you for your attention. Re care- 
ful as the plant gets larger to add more 
stakes to keep it from breaking off at the 
joints, as Chrysanthemums grown in this 
way are very liable to snap off at the 
joints from the least cause. The neatest 
way is to put one strong stake in the 
centre and loop the different branches 
up to it, using a separate string for each 
shoot, and not pass the string entirely 
around the plant and tie it, as you would 
a sheaf of wheat, as is frequently done. 
This manner keeps the branches too 
close, and the air cannot circulate freely 
enough through them to induce their 
proper development. At all times dur- 
ing the Summer keep the ground around 
the plant nicely worked, never allowing 
Mrs. Aiphcus Hardy. the ground to become baked. Water 
always in dry weather. This is best accomplished by making a little basin with 
soil around the stem of plant to prevent the water from running away when 
poured on, and cause it to soak in directly over the roots, where it will do the 
most good. In dry weather a little mulching of grass or litter of any kind 
thrown over the roots will prevent them from dryingoutso rapidly. After the 
first week in August all pinching and cutting must be discontinued, except any 
that comes from the roots or lower part of the stem ; to allow these would spoil 
the appearance of the plant. Early in September the buds on many of the 
varieties will be beginning to form. At this time a watering of liquid 'manure 
occasionally, but the manure will last a couple of weeks. As soon as the buds 
commence to form they must be closely watched, and when about as large as 
peas, every bud but the one on the extreme top or end of the shoot must be 
removed. Just rub them off with the finger and thumb, and carefully preserve 
the end or terminal bud ; this is where large flowers are required; It seems a 
great waste ot the blooms to do this, but do it once and you will never regret 
it. One large flower attracts more attention in a display than a thousand small 
or medium sized ones. By this mode of treatment we had flowers that meas- 
ured from eight to ten inches in diameter on a number of our plants that as- 
tonished all who saw them. It is best to cut away all the weak shoots and not 
let them flower at all. Select only the strongest snoots : leave only one bud on 
the end of each shoot; keep an eye on them occasionally, as little buds will 
keep coming lower down the shoot that must be removed. With this treat- 
ment, if large flowering varieties are selected, there will be no trouble in having 
blooms from seven to ten inches across, and a plant grown in this way with 
only a dozen blooms on it, is more showy and more attractive in every way 
than six of the best varieties you can secure grown, or rather let grow, iii their 
own spontaneous way. During the period the buds are swelling give them 
plenty of liquid manure, but as soon as the blooms begin to expand, give them 
clear water. After the blooms are fully expanded, if shaded from bright sun 
they wlil last a much longer period. The culture in pots can be carried on 
exactly as the foregoing rules state; the same applies to both pot and open 
ground culture. When grown in pots they will have to be shifted into larger 
pots from time to time, as the growth of the plant demands it, and must be 
potted into the pots they are intended to bloom in not later than the first week 
