Nature and Art, September 1, 1866.] 
A RAMBLE AMONG THE CRIM TARTARS. 
Ill 
A RAMBLE AMONG THE CRIM TARTARS BEYOND TITE 
SEAT OF WAR. 
By W. B. Lord, Royal Artillery. 
rilHE torches were still Hashing out at fitful and 
_1_ uncertain intervals, and shrill wild whoops 
were borne in quavering cadence on the sea-breeze 
as we took a last look from the door of our tent 
before retiring to rest. We were soon in dream- 
land, lulled by the even beat of the tiny waves 
as they fell on the smooth strand below us. The 
morning was delicious, and a plunge in the fresh 
leaping water sent us back to breakfast with an 
appetite which an ogre might have envied. For- 
tunately, our tenpenny investment was a sub- 
stantial one, and when cut in thick long strips, 
and fried with ham, was so excellent as to at once 
induce us to register a solemn promise to expend 
tenpence more at the very earliest opportunity. 
The horses being saddled and a pack-mule equipped, 
we start for Yalta, and march gaily along over the 
undulating mounds and breezy downs close border- 
ing the sea. The Pratincoles ( Glareolci Torquato) 
were very numerous here, and we secured several 
specimens. This beautiful and interesting bird is 
aptly described by the trivial name which has been 
given it, viz. the swallow plover. Skimming along 
on sharp curved wing with arrow-like flight, or 
running with surprising rapidity, now stopping to 
secure some heedless insect, and again starting off 
in rapid run to fresh hunting-grounds. The 
Pratincole, in turn, reminds us of both his name- 
sakes, and with his richly-tinted plumage and 
elegant form, is one of those charming objects on 
which Nature appears to have lavished her skilful 
handiwork. The day owls, too, hovered and sailed 
along over the low undergrowth, keeping a watchful 
eye on the bronze-green lizards below, whilst high 
over-head, like specks in the blue firmament, soared 
a pair of eagles ; down by the shore, in clamorous 
troop, the snow-white gulls contended for the 
shoals of silvery fry which each curling wave re- 
vealed. Onward we ride, our trusty old gun ready 
at hand for the benefit of such specimens of 
natural history as good fortune might throw in 
our way. We are soon among the vineyards again, 
and a short ride amongst gardens and tobacco- 
plantations brings us to Yalta, which is a clean 
white town without any of the usual accompani- 
ments to sea-side recreation found nearer home ; 
so that we had some difficulty in convincing our- 
selves that we were in the fashionable seaport of 
the southern coast. Little appeai’ed doing, as we 
rode through the deserted streets. Two carjxenters 
we did see engaged in repairing a very small boat, 
making use of a saw with the teeth set backwards, 
and di’essed in long flax cloth shirts, and boots up to 
the knees ; very easy-going carpenters were these, 
evidently disposed to make the most of a rare 
opportunity. Two beautiful egrets stalked along 
the deserted street on long stilt-like legs, and with 
sharp peering eye seeking their breakfast. 
After crossing a clear rippling brook, in which 
our friends the egrets are cooling their toes, we 
make our way at once to the Hotel d’Odessa, which 
is as dreary as the City of the Head. Here we leave 
our servant and mule, with strict orders that a 
search should be instituted forthwith for barley, 
vodka,* lemons, eggs, and bread ; all of which were 
to be procured and packed during our absence. 
After a cigar and a tumbler of tea with a slice of 
lemon in it, we are on horseback again, and soon 
ascending a steep hill at the back of the town. On 
the left-hand side of the road are some Cyclopean 
ruins, much like those before described ; many of 
| the masses of rock of which they were composed 
have been broken up and removed for building 
purposes. In a sheltered dell, not far off, stand 
some huge and venerable oaks, whilst the neigli- 
| bouring slopes are covered with magnificent vines. 
On the very crest of the hill stands a church, built 
in the Doric style, at the expense of Prince 
Woronzof. It is constructed on the site of a very 
ancient structure, probably a temple, from the 
J interior wells forth a clear spring of Avater, which 
| still flows through an arched opening contrived 
I for it in the Avail, and, after furnishing moisture 
j to the roots of the splendid trees growing around 
I the church, joins the little stream in Avhicli the 
j egrets Avere standing, and together empty tliem- 
j selves into the sea. Near this is a Avhole colony 
j of vine-growers, who have received grants and 
1 privileges from the emperor, conditional on the 
proper cultivation of the vine. Magaratcli is the 
name of the vine-dressers’ village ; and a very pretty 
little place it is. Some red wine Ave were fortunate 
enough to obtain here was of excellent quality, and 
much like that produced on the Phine. 
By a short cut, and rather rough scramble, we 
get back to the road leading to Nikita, the site of 
the Imperial Acclimatization Gardens ; but Ave have 
not time to inspect them, so proceed on our journey. 
A short distance from Cape Nikita, not far from 
the path, an excellent opportunity is affoi'ded for 
examining the geological formations of the region 
through which Ave are passing. The schist forma- 
tion here lies between the traveller and the sea- 
shore ; a deposit of sandstone follows ; and, crown- 
ing all, the piled-up masses of the J urassic limestone, 
the material of which the vast cliffs and towering 
crags we have been journeying through are com- 
posed. A short journey from the cape brings us to 
a valley unsurpassed in fertility and richness — the 
vale of Ourzouf. This Avas the “ Gorzubita” of the 
ancients, and here the emperor Justinian sought 
out a rock of almost impregnable position, on Avliich 
he built a castle. Its ruins were afterwards taken 
possession of by the Genoese, Avho constructed a fort 
* Russian whisky. 
