VILLA D’ESTE, CERNOBBIO, AND VILLAS ON LAKE COMO. 361 
Leaving this enchanted spot, as the boat returns to Bellagio Balbianello appears like a 
headless sphinx stretching out half across the lake, cut out in black basalt against the distant 
cliffs beyond. High above shines the preternatural brightness of snow-clad pinnacles 
illuminated by the hidden sun. Immense masses of dark clouds float slowly over the 
surrounding mountains, while a chill wind ripples the silvery surface of the lake. The sky is 
torn by long, slanting lines of distant rainstorms. The boatmen stretch at their oars to escape 
the coming tempest. A great blaek barge floats proudly by, its white sail turned to yellow in 
the extraordinary radiance of the mountain snows and the glistening reflection of the lake. 
The Villia Serbelioni is now a hotel, a much extended building, which, however, pleases 
by its simple character and long, low lines. It oceupies a very fine position on a neck between 
Como and Lecco, being ledged up in the hillside with a thick wooded background. It is well 
terraced and has commanding views. From Bellagio the ascent is continuous by long, winding 
roads, which, being planted, have the character of a park. 
The Villa Melzi was erected in 1810 — 1815, and now belongs to the Duchess of Melzi. It is 
on the shore of Lake Como, and has a landing-place. There is a family chapel at the entrance. 
The house is not particularly interesting : a marble tablet at the entrance commemorates the 
services of Vice-President Francesco Melzi and of his nephew to the locality. Two marble 
busts of Bonaparte’s mother and wife, placed on the walls of the orangery, which is close to the 
house, recall the epoch of the First Empire. 
The Villa Giulia has one face to Como and the other to Lecco. The long front facade is 
rather dull, but the back, facing towards Lecco, having advanced wings, central loggia and a 
visible tile roof, possesses more of the character of an Italian villa. The lay-out of the garden 
at the back provides a large lawm, balustraded on one side and bounded by an avenue on the 
other. In front it is terraced down to the lake, and a long ascent of steps up from the little 
harbour provides a good vista. Mimosa, oleander and wellingtonia trees distinguish the 
grounds ; camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons give strong notes of colour. A grassway lined 
with tall cypress trees which runs down to the waters of Como, near the little church of 
San Giovanni, lingers in the memory as a characteristic vision of the lake district of Northern 
Italy (Fig. 379). A. T. B. 
A 
