SURABAYA. 
37 
paradise bird. It is figured by Mr Wallace in 
his 4 Malay Archipelago/ but the illustration 
gives no idea of its velvety plumage. 
Surabaya is low-lying and sultry, but the heat 
at mid-day is not by any means so trying as on 
shipboard. The early mornings at sea are 
delightfully fresh, and with the sunset hour 
comes a welcome wind, while the evening is cool : 
the afternoon, however, is almost unendurable, 
especially when lying still in harbour. The 
double awnings are baked, the decks are hot, the 
glistening sea reflects pitilessly the powerful 
sun, giving no relief to the tired eyes, and 
sending up only an air as from an oven : no- 
where is there any escaping from the strong 
heat. Here, in a dwelling constructed for cool- 
ness, it is by no means unbearable. Sometimes, 
seated in a shady verandah, listlessly rocking 
to and fro, one is lulled into dreams of home, 
and visions flit through the mind of winter 
evenings and blazing hearths, and the comfort of 
listening to the fierce wind whistling in the 
gables; and, involuntarily, comparisons will in- 
trude of the respective merits of chilblains and 
prickly heat. 
Our next port is Macassar, which we reach 
after a sail of two days and two nights. We 
