WALKS IN BATAVIA. 
13 
acle under the great avenues or flash past in 
carriages in the gathering dusk. Gentlemen, 
however, still go with uncovered heads. 
Taking the opportunity of the comparative 
coolness of early morning and early evening, 
we saw not a little of Batavia during the few 
days of my stay. I call it a beautiful city, and 
you must not imagine it behind the world, for 
steam tram-cars puff along its streets. There 
is an old town and a new. The old town — 
close, fatal-climated Batavia of past days— lies 
ear the strand, scarcely at all above the sea- 
level. A traveller dropped down here by chance 
might make a very good guess at the national- 
ity of the dominant power. Canals intersect 
the town in every direction ; and dear are these 
placid water-roads to the heart of a Hollander, 
as to a Highlander his heather hills. On the 
banks of these are the Government offices, the 
Town - house, and the various consulates and 
banks ; and round this European nucleus cluster 
the native village and the Arab and Chinese 
quarters. In this low-lying, close neighbour- 
hood, devoid of wholesome water, scorched in 
the day-time, chilled by the cold sea-fogs at 
night, the Eastern merchant of long ago re- 
sided as well as traded. Out of this, however, 
