4 
BATAVIA — BUITENZORG. 
where we had moored, we entered a carriage 
drawn by two fleet ponies of the famous Sum- 
bawa breed. We sped on for some miles through 
what seemed an endless row of Chinese shops and 
dwellings, before which the occupants, visible in 
the lamplight as we flashed past, sat smoking at 
their ease. Thence we emerged into a more genial 
atmosphere, where trees margined the street, 
and brilliantly lighted residences and hotels 
with pillared marble fronts gleamed through the 
delicate curtains of foliage which intervened 
between them and the roadway. 
Apartments were ready for me in the Hotel 
der Nederlanden, and there I remained some 
days ; but as I found the heat very oppressive, 
we have come here to Buitenzorg, some thirty 
miles inland, and considerably above the sea- 
level, where the climate is much pleasanter. 
But I must tiy to give you some idea of my 
first impressions of life in the East, — how dif- 
ferent from Western life and ways you must 
come here fully to learn. 
About 5.30 of the morning after my arrival, 1 
was awakened by the rattle of cups in my veran- 
dah. Coffee was already there, but, except to 
notice that it was neatly served, I did not heed 
that refreshment, for curiosity and wonder at 
