112 
THE DURIAN. 
fallen in the forest, where its strong odour could 
not overpower, and in circumstances in which 
most gastronomic comforts are necessarily denied. 
Perhaps in his place I also should be inclined to 
say that 41 * it is unsurpassed as a food of the most 
exquisite flavour." 
This fruit is not allowed a place at table in 
hotels or civilised households. It has an odour 
which I can only describe as the quintessence 
of onions, but this is concentrated in the rind. 
If broken open at some distance from the house, 
the contents may be eaten without nausea ; and 
with some claret or a little brandy over it, the 
custard-like pulp is certainly delicious. I have 
never seen the tree, but learn that the durian 
“grows on a large lofty forest-tree, somewhat 
resembling an elm.*" The fruit may be com- 
pared to a cocoa-nut with the outer husk : it is 
almost of the same shape, perhaps less oval, and 
it is very spiny. 
The durian is like no other fruit from which 1 
could offer a comparison : it contains no juice, it 
is not sweet, it is not acid; it is a food more 
than a refreshment. One contains enough to 
o 
afford a very satisfactory lunch, and in the pro- 
cess of discussing the custard -coloured pulp, 
which has the consistency of an ice-cream, you 
