Various Qualities of Table Poultry. 
575 
fowls which ought to win in them, or to be bred and raised for a good market, that it seems 
desirable to add a few pages at the close of such a work as this. 
In the first place, it needs to be borne in mind that “fine table fowls” — fowls really deserving 
to be called such — are of at least two distinct classes. There are a certain number who demand 
the very best quality and flavour, irrespective of cost. Readers of the preceding pages will hardly 
need to be told that from this point of view no fowl can equal the Game, to most British tastes ; 
and at one time there was a decided tendency in writers, and judges of table classes, to confine 
their commendation to fowls of this description — fine in flavour, good in breast, and small in 
bone, but also small in size. Later on, the mistake of this was seen, and Game were extensively 
crossed with Dorking ; the best fowls of this description being of a cross first recommended by Mr. 
Tegetmeier, of Dorkings upon an old-fashioned race of short-legged Brown-red Game. Crosses of 
this kind produced fowls of admirable quality, and of very good size, some reaching as much as 
eight or even ten pounds when fully grown ; and such have won a great proportion of the prizes at 
recent shows, where there were classes for table poultry. But it needs to be remembered that Game 
crosses are not profitable to rear in many places or in large numbers. They require free range to do 
them justice. Wherever a few have this, perfection is the product ; but if large numbers are 
reared systematically in moderate space, they seldom thrive, and lose some of their fine flavour. 
Hence there is need and demand for table poultry of a quite different class, combining large 
size and capability for being extensively reared, with fine form and development. If the welcome 
by families, of the large size and easy rearing of even the early Cochins, had been borne in mind, 
the importance of these points would never have been forgotten. Of this sort of fowls, the best 
class of Brahma-Dorkings may be taken as the type; and it is very significant that wherever 
poulterers have been the judges, fowls of this description have taken far more prizes than under 
amateurs. The object of such crosses is, of course, to get the size, hardihood, and easy rearing 
of the Asiatic with the better frame of the Dorking or other fowl employed in the cross ; or where 
both fowls are good and a fair size, it is to obtain more size, greater hardihood, and often better 
laying. Thus the Dorking-Houdan makes an admirable cross, keeping the poulterer’s favourite 
five claws well developed. The best crosses shown of this kind have been Houdan-Dorking, 
Dorking-Houdan, Brahma-Dorking, Dorking-Brahma, Houdan-Brahma. Cochin crosses with 
the same fowls are somewhat similar, but not so good. Langshan crosses, of a good type , are 
about the same quality as with good Brahmas. On soils where they can be reared with success, 
however, and eggs are not so important, the pure Dorking is as good as anything that can be 
bred. Much has been said about its deterioration ; but when, in 1880, Madame Aillerot, con- 
sidered the best feeder and dresser of La Fleche fowls in France, and who has repeatedly taken 
the first prizes at the Paris exhibitions of dead poultry, was brought over to London by Mr. T. 
Christy, during the Crystal Palace Show, to demonstrate the French method of dressing to as 
many as were desirous of learning* that was not her opinion. In reply to our question of what 
she thought of the Dorkings at the show — the despised “fancy fowls,” remember — she elevated 
eyes and hands in the most emphatic French manner, and ejaculated, “ Per-FEC-tion ! ” It was 
but one word ; but it said as much as need be desired. 
The finest class of French poultry — the La Fleche particularly — are different again, so far as 
regards edible qualities, though it is probable this greatly depends upon the feeding. The flesh 
may be described as excessively tender and delicate, appearing almost to melt away in the mouth, 
* Only six responded to the invitation, and these were chiefly from the aristocratic landlord class, desirous of affording aid to 
tenants who were conspicuous by their absence 1 
