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“ several places on the frozen path very steep, and consequently dangerous. The ridge is 
“ very narrow, only about 10 feet broad at the top ; a rugged uneven rock. On the northern 
“ side the pass is very steep for a couple of thousand feet or more, and then the road leads 
“ into an open grassy valley. At the camp wood and grass were procurable.” At Sanju 
there was a halt from the 27th October to 2nd November, during which time Stoliczka 
obtained a number of birds and made observations on the geology ; he mentions, too, the 
rather curious fact that Char as, the well-known intoxicating preparation made from hemp, 
is sent from thence to India via Ladak. The people were of a more Aryan type than the 
Khirgiz, had fair complexions, rosy cheeks, and proved to be of friendly disposition. 
On the 8th of November the party reached Yarkand, where they met with a suitable 
reception from the Dadkhwa, a local functionary (governor) representing the Atalik, who 
was himself at Kashgar. 
Not very much freedom was enjoyed by the party, who appear to have been under a sort 
of honourable espionage. Stoliczka, however, managed to do some collecting in the 
neighbourhood of the city, his attention being especially directed to a swamp, where he 
obtained a number of birds. Of his experiences during the 20 days which the party spent 
in Yarkand he records some interesting particulars. The following letter to a friend in 
Vienna gives, however, a more general sketch of his proceedings during that period : — 
“ * We had a dreadfully cold and difficult journey across the Himalayan Mountains. My 
“ toes were frozen for a whole month, and were not really thawed till we reached Yarkand. 
“ On the 17th September we left the last village, Tanksi in Ladak, and on the 26th 
“ of October we came to the first village in Turkistan, which was Kiwaz, south of Sanju. 
“ From Sanju to Yarkand there are seven marches, the first five over waste lands with 
“ solitary oases, or rather woods, which are inhabited. The last two marches are in inhabited 
“ country, but nothing grows except by watering. Here, in Yarkand, the climate is almost 
“ European. We receive each day the finest grapes, apples, and pears that you can imagine. 
« The custom is that the governor sends us each day a ‘ dastar-khwan 5 with fruits, both 
“ fresh and dried, pilaus , &c. All these are spread openly upon a carpet, and the guests sit 
“ round about, the knees bent as in a Catholic church. One must not allow the toes to be 
“ seen when sitting, a position which is very uncomfortable — like the Turkish. But one must 
“ in time accustom oneself to all things ; one must rejoice that his throat has not been cut. 
“ Such freedom as we have is, of all things, in our situation not to be envied. It is not the 
“ custom to go about the country until one has seen the king. To live within four walls 
“ for 20 days is certainly not agreeable. 
“ Only this morning the day was fixed for our journey to Kashgar, where the king is. 
“ When we bring the treaty to a conclusion, and as soon as the articles are signed, we have 
“ been promised that we shall go about in the country. We shall remain about two months 
“ in Kashgar, then we hope to receive permission to travel for three months in Turkistan, 
“ and then to return by the Pamir plateau, Badakshan, and Kabul back to India. 
“ The latter journey will probably be the most interesting. By November or December of 
" next year I shall be back in Calcutta. I have already a good zoological collection, some 
“ new birds and mammals, and many fish. Geology is very meagi’e. Here there is nothing 
“ but loess. Hills only to be seen in the distance. The air is never clear, being always full 
“ of dust.” 
* Reise nach Yarkand (from a letter to Dr. A. Schrauf, dated Yarkand, 28th November, 1873). — Ver. der Iv.K. 
Geol. Reichs. 1874, p. 119. 
