PHILIPPINE HATS. 
109 
MEANS OF DISTINGUISHING THE PRINCIPAL KINDS OF PHILIPPINE HATS. 
The following, arranged somewhat in the form of a scientific key, 
aims to give what are in practice, the chief differentiating characters. 
A. Hats, not freaks, with curving brims and rounded crowns. 29 
Strands circular or nearly circular or flattened by pressure, but not obtained 
by the division of wider materials, their margins therefore rounded. 
Strands usually less than 1 mm in width, with few (usually 1 or 2) in- 
conspicuous longitudinal lines. 
. White or pale-pinkish or yellowish . Buntal 
Open weave . - Lucban 
Close weave . . Baliuag 
Brown to black (an old and rare type of) Nito 
Strands or some of them usually greenish, usually wider, with several con- 
spicuous longitudinal lines Ticog or tayoctayoc 
Strands flat or nearly so, obtained by the division of wider materials, their 
margins therefore showing more or less evidence of cutting. 80 
Strands appearing as if varnished, the outer layers of tissue often cracking, 
greenish-yellow to brownish, always coarse Pandan (bangcoan, 
balangot) 31 
Strands dull to silky in appearance, of all degrees of fineness. 
Strands with very evident cross-veins Buri-leaf 
Plaited before weaving Los Banos 
Not plaited Ordinary grades 
Strands without evident cross-veins. 
Hats, brown or black (natural color).... Nito 
Hats not brown or black or in rattan or cheap grades of buri-midrib 
with an admixture of light-brown strands, or in bamboo often dyed, 
but very seldom the entire hat. 
Hats grayish- to bluish-green except when bleached, the strands not 
divided as regards thickness Sabotan 
Hats white to pink or very pale-yellow, the strands divided as regards 
thickness. 
Hats silky or satiny in appearance, with slightly darker color than 
either of the following two — Rattan 
Hats white< or very pale-pink, with a glossy appearance, but much 
less so than rattan ~ - Bamboo 
Hats similar to bamboo, but never with any trace of pink, in cheap 
grades only with admixture of light-brown, always of rather 
dull appearance Buri-midrib 32 (Calasiao) 
29 The “block-hats” of Mr. Miller’s paper. 
30 The nature of the margins can usually be determined by the eye, in critical 
cases slight magnification is desirable. 
31 See pages 104, 119, 120. 
32 The bamboo and Calasiao hats are much the most difficult to distinguish, 
but in practice the latter are usually told with ease by the quantities of rice 
powder placed upon them in the process of finishing. The brownish color of 
some strands is considered an imperfection, and is not found in hats of better 
grade. See page 116. 
