HINTS TO FERN CULTIVATORS. 
Ferneries. Mounds, unless with a considerable thickness of soil, 
are not suitable for ferns, as during droughts they become too dry ; 
a sunken rockery (assuming the water can drain off) is far better. 
A north border (under a wall), some 5 or 6 feet wide (prepared with 
suitable soil), is one in which all large-growing ferns delight. On 
the other hand, an open windy position is the very worst that could 
be selected. Within a series of walls (like a ruined castle) is an 
admirable situation. Ferns planted near tree-roots often require 
the renewal of soil as it becomes exhausted. 
Compost. This should be coarse, except the surface (in pot- 
culture), and the leaves used should only be half-decayed ; roots 
grow much quicker and stronger when the soil is not too fine and 
close. Rock-ferns require the addition of stone, and do well (if in 
pots), plunged in a mixture of stone and compost in narrow boxes 
fixed against a north wall, a few feet from the ground. 
Drainage. Perfect drainage is essential in pot cultivation, as 
ferns do not like water to stagnate about their roots. Cockle-shells, 
and above this a thin layer of spent hops, may be used with advan- 
tage, the roots receiving nourishment as well as drainage. 
Manure. Very weak manure water given occasionally ; and old 
cow manure mixed in the compost is beneficial. 
Watering and Syringing. Ferns require attention in watering, 
especially if young and delicate. Hunt’s aphicide (a cheap spray 
distributor, made on a larger scale than the one in ordinary use), 
is an excellent instrument, holding a quart of liquid. A spray of 
water can be rapidly blown on the fronds. A solution of fir-tree oil 
blown through this “aphicide” on to the fronds kills insect pests, 
therefore another should be kept specially for this purpose. An 
excess of water is as injurious as a deficiency, and not constant 
small supplies, but a copious watering at proper intervals. 
Shading. This is an important matter, especially with delicate 
plants. Ferns do not like full sunshine, and overhanging trees give 
too dense a shade. Exposed situations and green-houses require 
shading. For years I have used the “ Willesden Scrim” ; it gives 
a subdued light without being too dense. I can recommend it as 
by far the best shading. 
Gathering Fronds. Gathering fronds, and their breakage by 
wind or other causes, is a source of weakness to ferns. In drying 
fronds it is requisite to change the blotting paper frequently. 
“ Bentham’s Paper” is very good for the purpose; and a new 
blotting paper named Robosal seems, from a brief trial, to be equally 
good. The felt-like material used under carpets is a useful absor- 
bent of moisture, if placed between newspapers containing fronds. 
Slltgs, Beetles, etc. Where houses are infested by beetles, 
Birkenhead’s “ beetle-trap ” is effective. For eradicating slugs and 
woodlice, small heaps of a mixture of bran and vinegar will attract 
them ; and by visiting these heaps at night-time they may be cap- 
