[ 297 1 
tongue. If it difcover any acrimony to the tongue 
(or bite it), it is not good. The tafte ought to be 
foft and mild. 
3. It fhould, when poured out, form globules in 
the glafs, and have an oily appearance. 
4. When genuine, the ftrongeft is always of the 
bed: quality. 
5. When fwallowed, it fhould have an earthy aftrin- 
gent tafte in the mouth, which they call the Ta/te of the 
root. The Poles, particularly, are fond of this aftrin- 
gency and aufterity in their Tokay. There is fo 
great a difference between the Tokay ufed in Poland, 
and what I drank both at Tokay and Vienna, which, 
I am fure, was of the befh and mo ft genuine kind, 
that I am inclined to think their wine is compofed 
of the Mafslafch, which, by the fevere preflure it 
buffers, mud: carry with it much of the adringent 
quality which, in all grapes, refides in the fkin, and 
a fmaller proportion than ufual of the effence. But 
this is mere conjecture. 
Befides the qualities already mentioned, all Tokay 
wine has an aromatic tafte ; fo peculiar, that nobody, 
who has ever drank it genuine, can confound it with 
any other fpecies of wine. The only fpecies that 
bears a refemblance to it grows, in a very fmall quan- 
tity, in the Venetian Friule, and is only to be met 
with in private families at Venice, where, in the 
dialed of the place, it is called Vin piccolit. 
The Tokay wine, both the Effence and Aufpruch, Ag< 
keeps to any age, and improves by time. I have 
drank of the latter at Vienna, which had been in 
the fame cellar fince the year 1686. It is never good 
till it is about three years old. 
All 
