It is true, there are a great many wine merchants, 
who, feeing the great fondnefs that there is for their 
frothy wines, oftentimes put in allum, fpirit of wine, 
and pigeons dung, and a great many other drugs, to 
make it froth extremely ; but it is certain by experi- 
ence, that the wine froths when it is any time bottled 
from the vintage to the month of May. There are 
iome who pretend that the nearer the vintage time 
the wine is produced when it is bottled, the more it 
froths. Many do not agree to this Opinion, but no- 
thing is more certain than that there is no time in 
which the wine froths more, than about the end of the 
fecond quarter of the month of March, and this al- 
ways happens toward the holy week. There does not 
need any artifice at all, one may be always fure to 
have wine perfectly frothy, when it is bottled from 
the ioth to the 14th of the month of March; of this 
there is fuch reiterated experience, that it cannot be 
doubted. 
It is good to know that the wine does not froth pre- 
fently after it is put in bottles ; it mud be at lead fix 
weeks, and fometimes fix months, before it froths 
well. If it is to be tranfported, you mud give it near 
a month of the vault, efpecially in the fummer, to 
recover its remove. 
But as wines, efpecially the mountain wines, are not 
ordinarily bottled in the holy week, becaule they are 
then too green, or have too much hardnefs, efpecially 
if the year has been cold and moid, or too much 
liquor expreffed, if the year has been hot, the mod 
lure and advantageous way to have exquifite wine, 
that is perfectly frothy, is not to bottle it till the rife 
of the fap of Augud. It is certain by experience, 
that it froths exceffively when it is bottled from the 
ioth to the 14th of Augud, and as it will then have 
lod the tartnefs or greennefs of its liquor, one may 
be afiured in bottles to have the riped and mod frothy 
wine. 
There has been another experiment tried, which is, 
not to bottle the mountain wine till the holy week 
of the fecond year, that is, eighteen months after 
the vintage ; and it has been found that it froths dif- 
fidently, but lefs by half than that which has been 
bottled in the rifing of the fap of March the year 
before. 
It is not believed that the river wine, which has a 
lefs body than that of the mountains, can froth fo 
much in the fecond year. When one would have 
wine that will not froth at all, it fhould be bottled in 
October or November, the year after the vintage ; if 
it be bottled in June or July, it will froth dightly, 
though but a little, if any thing at all. 
To find in the wine of Champaign all the merit that 
it ought to have, it fhould be taken out of the vault 
not above half a quarter of an hour before it is drank, 
and it mud be put into a bucket, with two or three 
pounds of ice ; the cork fhould be opened and put 
in again lightly, which, if it be not done, the wine 
will break the bottle, or will not grow cool, if it were 
not undopped, and it would evaporate itfelf, if it re- 
mained quite open. When the bottle has been half 
a quarter of an hour in this ice, it mud be taken out, 
becaufe the ice would otherwife chill it too much, 
and make it lole its brifknefs. This wine will be ex- 
cellently good, and of a delicious flavour, when it 
has been a little affeCted by the ice, but great care 
mud be taken that it may not be either too much or 
too little. 
As thele wines, efpecially thofe of the fame year, 
work continually in the vaults and cellars, and dill 
more in bottles than in pieces, according to the diffe- 
rent feafons, and the divers impreflions of the air, it 
ought not to be furprifing, if the fame wine, efpe- 
cially the new, oftentimes appears different in tafle. 
We find a wine potable in January and February, 
which will feem hard in March and April, becaufe of 
the rifing of the fap, which agitates it more -, the 
fame wine in June and July will appear entirely foft, 
and in Augud and September we fhall find it hard 
again, which one fhall not be able to perceive any 
thing of during the preceding months, becaufe the 
rifing of the fap in Augud will put the parts in a great 
motion. This effect motion will have on the river 
wines of the year, but oftentimes the wines of two 
years from the mountains will appear more mellow, 
more or lefs exquifite, more or lefs forward, accord- 
ing to the different motions it has received by the dif- 
ferent impreflions of the air, which will vary more 
fenfibly in the different feafons of the year. 
There ought to be a very great attention to keep 
the wine continually in cool places, for, as nothing 
does it more hurt than heat, it is of the greated im- 
portance to have good cellars, and excellent vaults. 
No part of the world has fo good vaults as thofe in 
Champaign, which is the reafbn it is fo difficult to 
find any where elfe fo good wines as thofe of this 
province. 
Thofe who would lay up a dock of wine, and are 
able to keep it two or three years, or whofe bufinefs 
it is to fend it into other far diftafit provinces, or to 
foreign countries, ought to chufe the mountain wine ; 
for as it has more body, it will better bear tranfpof- 
tation than thofe of the river ; and befides, the Eng- 
lifh, the Flemings, the Dutch, the Danes, and the 
Swedes, defire thele drong wines that can bear the 
transportation, and hold good for two or three years, 
which the river wines will not do. 
The mod noble river wines are thofe of Auvillers, 
Ay, Epernay, Pierry, Cumieres ; thofe of the moun- 
tain are, of Sillery, Verzenay, Taifly, Madly, and 
above all, thole of St. Thierry have the mod reputa- 
tion. The lad has for a long time had the greated 
name, and been the mod called for, and one may 
venture to fay, that it comes nothing behind the bed 
wines of Champaign. 
By all the observations which have been made on 
what is praCtifed in this province, in cultivating and 
ordering the Vines, and in fining off the wines, in 
bottling and carrying them up and down into cellars 
and vaults, and from vaults to cellars, it will be 
found that even perfons of good tade, in the pro- 
vinces of Burgundy, Berry, Languedoc, and Pro- 
vence, who are yet very curious and delicate in mak- 
ing wines, efpecially for their own tables, know not 
fo well how to bring it to perfection, as thofe who are 
accudomed to make it in this province for though 
their wines have not the tartnefs of thofe of Cham- 
paign, yet they are able to make them more clear, 
fine, and light. They might therefore try if they 
would not be preferved better in drawing them off 
from the lee, than in letting them lie on it, accord- 
ing to their ufual cudom, which fome are of opinion 
is abfolutely wrong. They fhould chufe and pick, 
in the frefh of the morning, their fined black Grapes, 
and thofe whofe berries adhere the lead together, be- 
caufe they are the riped, and they fliould obferve ro 
leave as little dalk to them as may be ; and with re- 
gard to preffing, in which they are ufually faulty* 
they fhould immediately, as loon as carried, trample 
every load of Grapes fucceffively as they are brought 
in, and collecting the fird, mud put it in new calks 
of a lefs fize ; and when they have finifhed treading 
the remainder of each carriage, they fhould put them 
into the common vat, but let them not remain there 
fo many days as they are generally ufed to do, that 
fo their common wines may be thinner, and lefs 
drong. By this management they might make four, 
five, or fix pieces of fine wine, more or lefs, accord- 
ing as they fhall find it good, and then they fhould 
take the-fame care, as has been faid thofe of Cham- 
paign do •, and if they would be content now with a 
lefs produce, they would have a far greater quantity 
the following years, and would be continually bring- 
ing it to a dill greater perfection, as they improved 
more and more in experience. In thofe countries, 
where they can conveniently have preffes, they fhould 
make them. 
Their wines would be more delicate, more light, and 
lefs coloured, by this attention, and with half the 
fining, would be better for tranfportation, in drawing 
them 
