of tTiofe wines •, which orders, that the commiftloners 
final! take one fol per livre for as much as comes to 
fixty livres 3 and for what exceeds this film, they 
fnail not take more than fix deniers per livre. Thus 
a private perfon who fnail receive for fix hundred 
livres of wine French money, fnail pay three livres 
to the commifiioner for what he fhall have fent above 
fixty livres 3 and for the five hundred and forty which 
are over and above, for which he is to pay the com- 
mifiioner, he fhall not demand more than fix deniers 
per livre, which will be the fum of twelve livres 
fix fous 3 which being added to the three livres above, 
make the fum of fifteen livres ten fous 3 a fum which 
would' amount to twelve or thirteen [hillings, accord 
ing to the exchange 3 and for this fmall profit, the 
commifiioner is obliged to advance his money to the 
citizens of whom he buys the wines 3 and that too, 
when he does not receive his payment from the per- 
fons to whom they are fent, as it fometimes happens. 
And the commifiioner that fhall be convided of tak- 
ing more, whether by books or other proofs, will be 
punilhed as has been laid above. 
The com million ers having purchafed and proved their 
wines according to the orders they have received, they 
caufe the tuns be new hooped, and put bars furround- 
ed with pins of wood of the Afpen-tree, and mark 
them with the town mark. And it ought to be ob- 
ferved, that no other country has a right to imitate or J 
counterfeit their fecond hooping; and for the greater 
furety, they put upon each calk the fire mark, which 
is a B on the top, two inches in length, with the cy- 
pher of the year in which the cafks were fent from 
Beaune to go to any other place. 
Thefe are the precautions that are taken in Beaune, 
by which the wines that come from thence cannot 
be miftaken 3 a caution otherwife not very neceffary, 
fince they manifeft themfelves fo plainly by their de- 
licacy and fuperiority above all the wines in the uni- 
verfe. They are befides very beneficial and proper 
to eftablilh and preferve health •, in this furpaffing 
the wines of Champaign, which flatten the tafte, 
and grate the palate 3 but which weaken and exte- 
nuate, enervate, and render dull, as one may fay, 
the mod healthful bodies 3 and which alfo, according 
to fad experience, and the writing of the learned, 
which I have read, breed the gravel, the gout, and 
the ftone. 
After having given an account of the fituation of the 
town of Beaune, and the hills which produce the 
wines of Burgundy 3 after having related the manner 
of cultivating their vineyards, and of making their 
wine, of proving, chufing, and buying it, I fhall 
next explain the different qualities of the wines which 
thefe divers hills produce 3 and in order to this, I fhall 
divide what follows into three fmall articles, by treat- 
ing firft of the forward wines 3 fecondly of the wines 
de garde, or for keeping 3 and thirdly, of white wines 3 
and conclude in giving inftrudions for the different 
methods that are to be ufed in bringing the wines of 
Burgundy to London, and advife how the Beaune 
wine may be fent to London in bottles. 
1 The firjt article of the wines of primeur , or the forward 
wines. 
They call that wine of primeur, which will not keep 
good more than one year, or that can be kept but a 
few months of the fecond year. 
The firft wine of primeur grows at Volnet, which is a 
village fituated about three miles from Beaune, upon 
a defcent of a mile in height at leaft, and two miles 
in length on the fide which is expofed to the rifing 
fun. This village, as well as Pomard, have their de- 
pendence on the city of Beaune. Since the citizens 
have been their lords, as I have faid before, thefe two 
plots of vineyards have been obliged to receive the 
law of their vintages from the magiftrates and faces 
named for this purpofe. f 
This hill produces the fineft, moft lively, and moft 
delicate wine in Burgundy. The bunches of Grapes { 
of the vineyards of Volnet are very fmall, as well as 
the berries. The branches rife fcarce above, three feet 
high, through the whole year. The Grapes of it are 
fo delicate, that they will not bear the vat more than 
twelve, fixteen, or eighteen hours 3 for if they be {of- 
fered to Hand longer, they would take the tafte of 
the ftaik. 
This wine is in colour a little deeper than the eye of 
a partridge 3 it is full of fire, ftrong, and light 3 it 
is almoft all fpirit, and is in fnort, the moft excellent 
of all Burgundy 3 which by reafpn of its violence, is 
not traded in, but its intoxicating quality is foon 
diflipated. The duration of the wine is from one 
vintage to another, though it perilhes at the begin- 
ning of the dog days, after which it changes its co- 
lour, and is turned, but yet I doubt not but that it 
would keep longer in very cold vaults. The fineft of 
their vats is drawn from a canton of vineyards that is 
called Chatnpan. 
Pomard is the fecond plot of vineyards of the pri- 
meur 3 it is fituated between Volnet and Beaune, not 
quite lb high as the firft, and a little higher than 
Beaune. It produces a wine that has a little more 
body than the preceding, is of the colour of fire, and 
has a great deal of perfume and balfam •, it will hold 
good fome months longer than that of Volnet; it is 
more merchantable, and better for health 3 if it be 
kept above a year, it fattens, ropes, waftes, and be- 
comes of the colour of the {kin of an Onion. The 
beft vat is that of Commeraine, which will fome- 
times keep eighteen months, but that is according as 
the year is. 
The city of Beaune contains one very confiderable 
plot of vineyards 3 it contains only four hills, - which 
are about four miles in length from Pomard to 5 a- 
vigny. The firft of thefe is called St. Defire, the fe- 
cond the Montee Rouge, the third Les Greves, and 
the fourth the Fountain of Marconney. Thefe diffe- 
rent foils produce wines which participate of thofe of 
Volnet and Pomard, without the faults of them 3 
they have a little more colour, many good qualities,' 
and laftingnefs. 
The wines of Beaune laft fome more, and fome lefs, 
but they do not laft above two years 3 they are fweet- 
er, more agreeable, and more merchantable, than 
the two preceding, and much better for health. The 
colour 6f thefe wines is not equal, becaufe that de- 
pends much upon the manner of making them 3 or 
that they let it remain more or lefs hours in the vat, 
according as the climate is more or lefs delicate where 
it is made. There are in thefe four hills, certain in- 
clofed cantons, which are in great reputation. The 
Feves, Cras, Greves, as alfo the king’s inclofures, are 
very delicious. 
Aloffe is the fourth vineyard in the primeur 3 it is fi- 
tuated upon the declivity of a hill about three miles 
from Beaune. This valley is an afcent fo gentle, that 
one can fcarce perceive that one afcends, till one has 
come to the top of it. This little village produces 
wines of an extreme delicacy 3 they are left brhk than 
the former, but of a tafte more flattering. The 
colour is a little more foft, and lefs fparkling, but 
fine 3 and lijce the hill that produces it, the wine is 
too little elevated, and too much declining 3 it par- 
takes neither of the firmnefs, nor ftiffnefs, of the 
wines of the height of the hills 3 it has ail the tender- 
nefs, none of the hardneis, and of confequeoce is fub- 
jed, in a little while, to grow ropy, and to take the 
bad quality of fweetnefs 3 neverthelefs, it is fent" to 
foreign countries 3 but it requires much choice and 
judgment. 
Pernand, which is between the laft vineyard and the 
grand vineyard of Savigny, is of a greater extent, but 
is of fmall account, the wines not being very delicate. 
They are of the quality of the preceding vineyards, 
but harder and firmer, becaufe • they are produced 
upon a hill that is higher and fteeper. There are 
fome vats very delicious, and thefe go into other coun- 
tries, but under the name of Beaune wine. 
Chaffagne 
