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Chaffagne is not very confiderable for its extent, but i 
is of great reputation for its wines. This, in my 
opinion, would be more fit for 1 England, becaufe it 
would better bear carriage by land and fea. It is ex- 
tremely ftrong, full of fire, and heady. It is com- 
monly tart, ■which renders it more durable than the 
others •, but if peribns have (kill and leifure to bottle 
it in the proper time, and to drink it when its tart- 
nefs begins to fall, it is one of the nobleft wines in 
the world. If I had the office of providing the king’s 
wine, I would go into Burgundy to chule it; and in 
chufmg the wine of this climate, I fhould be likely 
to fucceed. This is the only wine that one may leave 
in bottles without fear of its growing ropy, changing 
its colour, growing eager, or turning. The longer 
you keep it, the better it is. 
It is more balmy and no uri thing, but neverthelefs you 
may not prefcri be above three years for the bounds of 
its duration. It will be fit for drinking, at the end of 
the fecond year; fometitnes it lafts four years, when 
the vintage has been very good. 
This is the rank of wines in the primeur, though its 
duration is a great deal longer. 
Savigny is a great extent of ground between Beaune 
and JPernand, fituated in a valley formed by the repa- 
ration of the two mountains. As the hills that com- 
pofe this vineyard are open to the rifing fun by a great 
fpace, and as they are Qiut up as they approach to the 
letting fide, they participate of the rays of the fun 
obliquely, and on the other diredtly. This foil pro- 
duces excellent ftrong racy wines, which have both 
body and delicacy, when they have been drawn out 
into bottles ; but they muft be vifited now and then, 
fo as not to let flip the time when they fhould be 
drank. This would be a very good wine for England ; 
it will keep as well, and better than Chalfagne ; it is 
not fo delicate, nor fo brifk, but it is more oily and 
very good for health. 
Auxey is pretty near of the fame fituation, in a cor- 
ner between two hills, which open themfelves to Muf- 
fault, or as far as St. Romaines, where may be feen 
high mountains crowned with very high rocks. This 
vineyard produces wines more red and ftrong than 
thole of Savigny, but they have not the reputation of 
them. Thefe wines have more body than the pre- 
ceding, and ought to be the drink of all thofe gen- 
tlemen that would notfhorten their days by drinking 
thofe heady fparkling wines, an excefs in which is lb 
dangerous. 
The Jecond article , of the whies de garde , or thofe which 
will keep a great while. 
Nuis is a very fmall village, about nine miles from 
Beaune, in the road, to Dijon. The territory of this 
village contains between four and five miles in ex- 
tent. All thofe gentlemen that love the molt deli- 
cate and healthful drinks, have the wines of the hills 
of Nuis for their tables. Thefe wines are at firft ve- 
ry rough, fharp, and tart ; they require to be kept 
till the fecond, third, fourth, and fifth year; and 
when their roughnefs and hardnefs are gone, their 
tartnefs being fallen, there comes in their place a per- 
fume and bal minds very delicious; they are of a deep 
velvet colour, and yet neat and brilliant. Lewis XIY. 
drank no other wine. 
The clofe of Vogeot A fituated a league from Nuis 
on the fide of Dijon ; it appertains entirely to the 
monks of the famous abbey of Citteux, built be- 
tween the Saone and this hill. The wine which it 
produces, comes nearer to that of Chaffagne than to 
any other ; it is very excellent, and is drank in fo- 
reign countries. 
Chambertin produces the moft valuable wine of all 
Burgundy ; it is fituated between Dijon and Nuis, 
and contains the qualities of all the other wines with- 
out their faults. This is what one may forget with- 
out fear, I have drank it fix years after it has been 
produced, and it poured troubled and thick into the 
glals, but grew clear immediately, and by its motion 
V I T 
recovered its fpirits, and a colour the moft lively and. 
neat ; and they alfo fell it as dear again as the other 
wines of Burgundy. It was fold the laft vintage for 
forty and forty-two pounds fterling the chantier ; 
when the wines of Volnet, Poniard, and Beaune, fold 
for not above twenty pounds fterling a queue, which 
contains, as I have faid before, four hundred and 
eighty Paris pints. 
The third articles of white wines. 
Before I begin to treat of white wine, it is proper to 
let you know, that it is made from a mafculine kind 
of Grape. This has two qualities, that the Grapes 
of the other colour have not. The firft is this That 
if the vinntage be late, and the white frofts and 
great cold come, it refills the hoar froft ; while the 
black Grapes grow four, withered, and fhrivel im- 
mediately. 
The fecond is, That as foon as thefe white Grapes 
are cut, they muft be put into the prefs without 
entering the vat, and without being trod as the black 
Grapes are ; for if they were put there, they would 
give only a livid, ruddy, yellowilh liquor. I thought 
myfelr obliged to acquaint the public with that. 
Muffaultis, after Beaune and Nuis, the largeft. vine- 
yard of Burgundy in extent ; its wines are generally 
approved in Germany, the Low Countries, and 
throughout all France. The wines which this foil 
produces in all hot and dry years, are delicious, fpark- 
ling, agreeable, warm, and beneficial ; they are not 
dear, and if they were well chofen, they would be a 
pleafure to thofe that. drank them. When they are 
kept above a year and a half, they fometimes grow 
yellow and eager. 
Puligny is a vineyard next to Muffault, but much 
more in the plains, which produces the beft white 
wines. They are, within a very little, of the fame 
quality with the wines of Muffault, but their fame is 
not divulged, and the name is almoft unknown. 
Aloffe, in which I have fpoken in the article of the 
firft wines, produces alfo excellent wines. 
Morachet is a little plot of ground between Chafiagne 
and Puligny in the plain, which is in the poffeffion of 
one vein of earth, which renders its foil wholly of the 
fame kind. It produces a white wine the moft curi- 
ous and moft delicious in France, and there is no 
wine of Cote Rotie, Mufcat, nor Frontignan, that 
equals it ; it produces but a very fmall quantity, and 
it fells very dear; and, in order to have a fmall quan- 
tity of it, it ought to be befpoken a year before, be- 
caufe this wine is always befpoken before it is made ; 
but great caution is to be taken not to be deceived, 
for the neighbouring vineyards of this, dole partake 
a little of the quality, and oftentimes pafs for Mo- 
rachet, and therefore it will be abfolutely neceffary 
to have a faithful correfpondent. This wine has thofe 
qualities that neither the Latin nor French tongue 
can exprefs. I have drank of it fix or feven years 
old, and am not able to exprefs its delicacy and ex- 
cellence. 
I am now going to treat concerning all the vineyards 
of the Upper Burgundy. Thofe who have palled the 
grand road that leads from Dijon to Lyons, the length 
of the hills, will do juftice to my exadlnels, and I 
defire thofe that have not been there, to believe that 
this relation is agreeable to truth. 
I have a hundred times heard boafting of the wines 
of many hills near Auxerre, to which they give the 
name of the wine of Burgundy. It is true thofe hills 
are in Burgundy, but they are ninety miles diftant 
from the true hills, of which I fpoke juft now, which 
only produce thefe wines of Burgundy which are in 
reputation, and which they drink after two manners, 
by the nofe, and by the mouth, either both at once, 
orfeparately ; both at once in that when one drinks 
them, the pleafure which he has in the ftnell, vies 
with the relifli it has on the palate ; and feparately, fo 
that a perfon that has been ufed to drink it, may know 
whether it be the true Burgundy or not, by the ftnell, 
or 
