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Or fweet odour. The good tafters tafte it by their 
nofe, before they put it to their mouths ; and all the 
other climates of Burgundy, as thofe of Chablis and 
Auxerre, have no fuch quality as the true wines of 
Burgundy have, although they are really made and 
produced there. 
It remains for me to relate how thefe wines may be 
brought to England. It has always been the cuftom 
to bring thofe wines from Burgundy in their calks •, 
but as the carriage is long, and there is oftentimes a 
rifque run, fo the carriers as well by land as by fea, 
are not always faithful •, for notwithstanding all the 
precaution that can be taken to hinder them from 
drinking the wine, they will always find out ftrata- 
gems to do it. If it be packed up in calks with ftraw 
and linen cloths, this is but a feeble obftacle to their . 
induftry. And for all this precaution, if the calk 
happens to leak by the way, this will be at the peril 
and lofe of the purchafer. If thefe wines be put into 
double calks, this precaution will have no better fuc- 
cefs than the foregoing, and is expofed to the fame 
rifque ; and the calks of the bell vintages are a great 
prejudice to the delicate wines, becaufe this gives the 
full fcope to the lpirits to evaporate, and of confe- 
quence they will caufe a great diminution of the qua- 
lity of the wine. 
It ought to be brought in bottles from Beaune to 
London : for this purpofe, fome agent who buys the 
wines by order of the perfon, Ihould be add relied to, 
to draw it out into bottles, and to fend it in cafes to 
England. Thefe cafes being filled, need not be car- 
ried by land above ninety miles to Auxerre, where they 
may be embarked on the river Tone, which palfes in- 
to the river Seine, and from thence to Paris, and af- 
terwards to Rouen, where are velfels which pals very 
often to London. 
The agents of Beaune would alfo be very well pleafed 
to bottle the wine that they were ordered to buy, 
provided their correlpondents would give orders for 
enough to make a carriage. As for example ; if 
two or three perfons would join to give orders for a 
thoufand bottles, this would be a complete carriage •, 
and as thofe of Volnet draw their wines into bottles 
at the end of December, a perfon that would have 
five hundred bottles of Chafiagne or Nuis, ought to 
join with another that would have the like quantity. 
The agent might bottle up thefe wines a year after 
the vintage, either more or lefs, and the purchafers 
might receive the wines of Burgundy exquifite and 
delicious ; and in like manner, all other wines that 
they have a mind to have. As to the price of the 
wines of Beaune, Volnet, Pomard, Chafiagne, and 
Nuis, it is pretty near equal, or at moll the difference 
is not very great. A queue of Volnet wine contains 
four hundred eighty Paris pints, which will make 
five hundred bottles, and will colt in the country, 
fome years ten, twelve, fourteen, or eighteen, and 
at moft twenty pounds fterling. The carriage may 
coft to Calais twelve or thirteen livres, and after- 
ward from Calais to London a very fmall matter •, fo 
that taking the years one with another, the deareft 
wines of Burgundy, except that of Chambertin, which 
is the deareft, would fcarce, in London, ftand in 
fourteen or fifteen fols a bottle, the cuftoms not being 
reckoned in. 
The method of making wine in Provence. 
The delicatenefs of the tafte of Grapes is not always 
a certain proof of their goodncfs for making wine ; 
it is not always with thefe Grapes, fo agreeable to the 
tafte, that the beft wines are made : we Ihould not be 
furprifed, that our wines are not the moft exquifite, 
fince we do not obferve any rule in the choice of the 
Grapes, which ought to be done. 
It is certain, that the juice of Grapes of different 
kinds, cannot but produce a confufed mixture, which 
fuffers _ divers alterations in the calks, by the different 
fermentations, which the fulphureous particles of the 
Grapes excite there ; by which they fuffer themfelves 
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to bfe very eaffiy opened at the approach- of head 
This is what happens to wines which have been made 
of a mixture of many kinds of wild Grapes. Expe- 
rience informs us, that wine drawn from fuch Grapes 
is very lubjedt to ferment and grow foul, as. foon as 
the heats of the fpring begin to approach \ which 
does not happen in the winter, when the cokinefs of 
the air holds it, as it were, bound and em bar raffed 
by the fulphureous particles ot the wine. It is the 
fame thing in the juice of the Grapes called Cfaretos, 
Plans, Ellrans, Pignalets, &c. when they are ming- 
led in too great a quantity with the others. The com- 
mon fault of our wine is, that they cannot be kept 
the year throughout ; they are apt to grow foul, or 
turn, as it is called, upon the leaft tranfport. 
The greateft part of our citizens believe it to be the 
fault of the foil, principally the vineyards planted in 
the places where the bottom of the foil is plafter or 
transparent ftone, which is the cafe of all that ex- 
tent of ground, which begins- from R. P. Capucins, 
as far as Aguilles, which they commonly call Pay- 
blank, i. e. white country. But how many vineyards 
have we planted in different foils, that are fubject to 
the fame vice ? It is generally agreed, that the foil 
which they call gris [gray,] is the beft for vineyards ; 
neverthelefs it is found, that the quarter of Molieres, 
of Repentance de Barret, and of Montaguez, are not 
exempt from this vice. I am of opinion, that it pro- 
ceeds from the mixture of too great a quantity of dif- 
ferent forts of Grapes ; I cannot deny, after experi- 
ence, but the nature of the foil, the culture, and the 
dung they ufe, contributes very much to this vice, 
which is what I {hall hereafter examine into. 
Therefore it is neceflary to know, what Grapes are 
fit to make good wine, that may be in a condition 
to be kept without being foul or turning, and how' to 
make it. 
It is very true, that a perfon cannot make from one 
vineyard a great quantity of wine, that Shall be at the 
fame time good in quality. A vineyard ought to be 
planted on thofe high grounds or hills, which are ex- 
pofed either to the louth or fouth weft. 
And the foil ought to be a fort of brown, or approach- 
ing to it. Thofe which we call Arpielo, Malaufene, 
and Saveon, are foils which are fcarce proper to nou- 
rish ftocks that wili produce Grapes for making good 
wine. The vineyards which are round about the 
Peres Auguftins Reformez, commonly called Saint 
Pierre, are planted in a foil of Saveon aforefaid, very 
unfit for producing Grapes of a delicate reliih, or for 
making good wine. 
The entrance into the territory of Tholonet is, for 
the moft part, a foil which our country people call 
Malaufene ; and alfo the wines that they produce are 
none of the beft. 
Thofe Grapes ought to be chofen, which grow upon 
ftocks that are planted in a foil fomewhat rocky. 
As to the culture it is certain, that good wine cannot 
be drawn from Grapes that have too much nouriSh- 
ment, and of which the fap has not attained the leaft 
degree of conco&ion or ripenefs. 
Thofe which we call Ollieros, which are commonly 
dunged, and which they cultivate with pains, give a 
great quantity of Grapes , but their great nourishment 
is an obftacle to their making good wine. Thofe 
which we call open vineyards, are to be preferred to 
them. 
We ought to prefer the Grapes of old vineyards to 
thofe of young ones. The proper vineyards for mak- 
ing good wine, are thofe which have been planted 
twenty-five or thirty years ; the older they are, the 
more proper they are for making good wine ; and 
till the vineyard has been made feven or eight years, 
good wine ought not to be expected from it. 
As to the choice of Grapes, we ought to mix fome 
of the beft forts that we have. Thefe kinds are., of 
the white Grapes, the Aragnan, Roudeillat, Pafeau 
Blanc, Eftrani, Yni, and Aubre. Of the black, the 
Catalan, Bouteillan, Uni Negre. The mull that is 
drawn from thefe Grapes ought to ferment in the vat 
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