VI T 
at leaft three weeks, when the bulks muft be fepa- J 
raced from the muft. 
It ought to be noied, that the proportion which fiiould 
be kept between the quantityof thefe kinds is different, 
according to the dcfign which every one has of keep- 
ing thefe wines. 
The black Grapes, and above all the Catalan, and 
the Boutellan, fhould make more than half the quan- 
tity of all the reft. 
Thofe that defire' to have a wine of a deeper red, 
fhould take a greater quantity of black Grapes, and 
ought to let them ftand a longer time in the vat, if 
they have occafion to change the wine from time to 
time. 
They make white wine of the Grapes they call Au- 
bier, Uni, Roudeillat, Aragnan, Pignolet. If they 
would have wine proper to keep in the heat of fum- 
mer, they ought to ufe none but Uni, Aubier, and 
Aragnan. 
Nobody is ignorant, that we have wines made of but 
one fpecies of Grapes •, as that of Mufcat wine, and 
claret: for the firft they make ufe of Muicats, as well 
white as red ; for the fecond, of the Grapes they call 
Clareto. 
They keep thefe Grapes with us, during the whole 
winter, and fome part of the fpring, hanging upon 
a beam in a room. All forts of Grapes are not fit 
for keeping •, thofe kinds that are called Pendoulans, 
or Rin de panfe, le Land de Poiierre, le Verdau, are 
the beft for this purpofe •, the Aragnan and Eftrani 
are fo likewife •, alfo the Clareto, Mufcat, and red 
Uni ; the Barbaroux, and the Efpaguin, the Taulier, 
and the Roudeillat, will not keep fo long. They 
ought to be gathered full ripe, and before the rains, 
and none to be chofen but thofe that grow upon old 
ftocks. 
They alfo preferve thofe Grapes to make what the 
Latins call UvrePalfe; not becaufe dried in the 
fun, but becaufe they are expofed to the fun hang- 
ing; they call them in French dried Grapes-, the 
provincials call them Panfes. They make ufe of 
none but Grapes called Rin de Panfe or Pendulem, 
or of Rin Panfe Mufcat, to make the beft Panfe. 
They alfo make ufe of the Grapes which are called 
Aragnans, which is the moft common Panfe in the 
hotteft places. 
They alfo make ufe of the Grapes called Roudeillats, 
and the Plan Eftrani. The Grape which we call the 
Land de Pouerre, is not made ufe of with us for this 
purpofe, although I have been informed, that they 
are ufed in hot countries near the lea coafts. They 
make their Panfes with us, after the following man- 
ner ; they tie the Grapes in a firing, and put them 
upon another firing at both ends then they plunge 
them into a boiling lye, in which they mingle a little 
oil, until the Grapes fhrivel, and afterwards expofe 
them to the fun for fix or feven days ; and then they 
lay them in rows in cafes, prefling them gently. 
Wine is different in virtue and delicacy of tafle. 
The difference proceeds, for the moft part, from the 
different natures of the Grapes with which it is made, 
the different degree of their maturity, and the diver 
fity of the foil where the vineyards are planted ; and 
alfo the different culture of the vineyards, and the pre- 
paration of the wine -, to which may be added, the 
difference of the climates, according to the greater or 
lefifer degree of heat. 
The Romans, as we learn from Pliny, were very cu- 
rious in fearching after the moft excellent wines : all 
their differences confifted in the places where they 
were made ; as the Setinum, Caecubum, Falernum, 
Gauranum, Fauftianum, Albanum, Surrentinum, and 
Maflicum, which were the moft delicate wines of 
Italy in the time of Pliny. Among thewines of Greece, 
they efteemed the Maronean, Thafian, Cretan, Coan, 
Chian, Lefbian, Icarian, Sinyrean, &c. Their luxu- 
rious tafte carried them in fearch of the wines of Alia, 
as that of Mount Libanus, and others, as may be feen 
in Pliny. 
It is to be noted,, that the Romans had their moft ex- 
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cellent wines from Campania, which is now called 
Terre de Labour, a province of the kingdom of Na- 
ples. Thofe of the other parts of Italy did not come 
near thefe laft in point of excellency. The Faleriiian, 
Gauranian, and Maffic, were made from vineyards 
planted on the hill round about Mondragon, at the 
foot of which paffes the river Garigliano, antiendy 
called the Iris. The Cascuban, which differs nothing 
from the Falernian but in age ; (this is that which the 
Latins call the length of time which the wines are 
able to preferve their ftrength,) was produced in the 
Terre de Labour, as the Fundanum and Amyclum 
were near Gaeta, the Sueffanum of Sueflfa Pometia, a 
maritime territory of the kingdom of Naples ; the 
Colenum about the town of the Terre de Labour ; 
and alfo many others, with which that province fur- 
nifhes the city of Rome. 
Thefe wines, which are very excellent in their na- 
ture, acquired rather by age than by art, a degree of 
perfedtion to which none of the other common wines 
of Italy can attain. 
The laft, which the Greeks call Oligophora, and the 
Latins Tenuia and Paucifera, are very eafily p refer ved 
by the cold, or rather by a freflh air, and grow eager 
by heat. Alio thofe which the Greeks call Polypho- 
ra, Multifera, and Vinofa, become more vigorous 
and fnirituous by the heat. 
The Grapes of which the firft are made, abound in 
crude phlegm ; the fuiphureous parts of the muft are 
more dilated. The laft, on the contrary, are drawn 
from Grapes chat are more ripe-, of which the muft 
or the fuiphureous parts which compofe it, are con- 
centred, and fixed by the evaporation of the humid 
parts which dilate it. To this may be added, the 
abundance of the fulphur of thefe laft, which is the 
caufe of the true ftrength of thefe wines ; and it is by 
being opened that they acquire this fpirimoufnefs. It 
was only to procure this opening, that the ancients 
invented the preparing thefe wines in the manner I am 
going to exprefs. 
Pliny informs us, that in the year 633, from the foun- 
dation of Rome, they lodged their tuns full of wine 
in places covered, which were expofed to the north, 
fuch as we now call cellars. 
On the contrary, thofe calks which w r ere filled with 
vigorous and fpirituous wine, fuch as Polyphorum, 
were fet in an open place, and expofed to the rain and 
fun, and all the injuries of the weather. Thofe 
which contained wines of lefs ftrength, were kept 
under cover. Thofe which were full of a weak wine, 
were put into a hollow place and covered with earth. 
Galen, in his book de Antidot. chap. nr. and in 
the Treadle of Vines, that is afcribed to him, re- 
marks very much to the purpofe, That the wines of 
the firft order, or Polyphora, were preferved two or 
three years in thefe cold places ; but if they let them 
lie there too long, they grew eager, if they did not 
remove them to warmer places, as they uled to prac- 
‘ tife in Afia, before the Romans had any knowledge of 
it ; and it was by this means that the people of Afia, 
as well as the Romans and Greeks, attained to the arc 
of making wine keep fo long. 
The moft ancient epocha of the preparation of thefe 
wines among the Romans (as Pliny lays) was about 
the year of Rome 633. This author who lived along 
time after in Vefpafian’s time, allures us, that thefe 
wines had been kept for the ipace of a hundred years, 
andth at they grew thick to the confiftence of honey, 
fo that they could not be drank without mixing them 
wfth water. 
He alfo adds, Quo generofius eft vinum, eo majus 
vetuftate cra'ffefcit, i. e. by how much more generous 
the wine is, by fo much the more it grows thick by 
age. The fame that is feen in our days in the Spa- 
n fh wines. 
This thicknefs of the wines, of which I amfpeaking, 
is lefs extraordinary than that of the wines of Afia, 
of which Galen fpeaks in his book of Refpirarion 
which being inclofed in large flalks, and fufpended 
near the fire of their chimnies, acquire by the evapo- 
ration 
