always been accuftomed to have colour enough by 
being tunned but a little. 
Some pretend that one quart, or thereabouts of the 
wine [De Teint] of the tincture, or of [GrosNoir] the 
large black, to a vat of fifteen puncheons of red Au- 
vernat, will have a good effieft. 
I own that it will give it a fine colour, without ren- 
dering it harfh, provided it be not tunned too. long j 
but as this Teint, or this Gros Noir, have no quality 
but that of giving it the colour, I am of opinion that 
the Auvernat Teint, which is very red, fubftantial, 
and vinous, produces a better e fie ft ; but it requires 
only to put more of that of the Teint, than of the Gros 
Noir; becaufe this Auvernat colours a great deal lefs 
than thofe of the two other kinds of Grapes. 
The riper both the one and the other are, the more 
wine they yield, and the more colour they have ; and 
for this reafon they ought never to be gathered, but 
when they are in their perfect maturity. 
The Auvernat Teint ought not to be planted indiffe- 
rently in ail forts of land, becaufe it will not do well 
in all ; and for this reafon, thofe vho would have 
them, ought at firft to plant but a few, to fee if they 
will fucceed in their lands. Alfo care muft be taken 
not to mix them with other in planting, that one may 
the better know what quantity we fhould put into eve- 
ry vat ; which will be difficult to do, if they were 
planted confufedly with ocher Auvernats, or red 
plants, to make thence good mixed wine. 
Although the Auvernat Teint is a very good Grape 
of itfelf, yet it muft be owned, that if too much of 
it be put into the red Auvernat, it will alter the qua- 
lity of it ; for the laid wine is never better, than when 
it is made without any mixture of other Grapes ; and 
it has ordinarily as much colour and ftrength as it 
fhould have, not only to maintain itfelf by itfelf, but 
alfo to put oft' other wines of an inferior quality. 
But then I fuppofe, that this red Auvernat grew up- 
on good lands, for there are fome which of them- 
felves do not give enough to the wines that they pro- 
duce ; in this cafe it is good to plant the Auvernat 
Teint. 
It is true, that this wine being mixed, will not be fo 
fine, as if it were only the pure red Auvernat •, but 
then again, it will maintain itfelf better •, and when 
one would make an Auvernat, which has a ftrong tart- 
nefs and a good flavour, without having any colour, 
you muft put to the red Auvernat, about the feventh 
part of the Melier, or of good white Auvernat, fuch 
as now grows in the vineyard of Blois •, but that one 
may be able to make this mixture, it is neceffary that 
this Melier, or white Auvernat, be ripe at the fame 
time as the red Auvernat. 
A wine made after this manner, is fo excellent, and fo 
difguifed, that is is made to pafs for pure Burgundy 
wine ; and is fold at Paris and other places as fuch, in 
wickered bottles. The belt wine conners are there 
deceived every day. 
The Auvernat, without diftin&ion, is red ; they alfo 
name it from its lkin, which is brown, becaufe its 
colour is not of fo deep a red as that of the Auvernat 
Teint, and becaufe it is deeper than the gray Auver- 
nat, which is alrn oft quite white, and that too when 
it has been tunned very much. This kind of red Au- 
vernat is the moil common among the black Auver- 
nats, and is one of the belt wines that grow in this plot 
of vineyards. 
The [AuvernatNoir] black Auvernat is very uncom- 
mon in this country, and known by few perfons ; its 
berry is rounder than the other Auvernats ; its lkin 
is as black as jet, and that is the only thing that it is 
known by. There is alfo another fpecies of it, svhich 
fome vignerons call the Auvernats of Tours •, it differs 
nothing from the red, but in that its wood is very big 
as well as its fruit. The Grape is long and well filled; 
and it were to be wifhed, that this kind was not fo 
fcarce in this country ; for it is the fineft, and one of 
the beft that we have. 
The gray Auvernat is neither white, black, nor red, 
but of a gray or pearl colour, when at the greateft 
maturity. But fome have made this obfervation* that 
in certain lands this colour becomes black in about 
twelve or fifteen years after the planting of thefe 
Vines, but neverthelefs without lofing their quality. 
The change of the colour does not come univerfally. 
I have feen vineyards very old, that did produce the 
Auvernat of this quality. 
When this gray Auvernat "has been made off hand, 
or when it has been tunned but a very little while, 
* * 
and it is once gone from this vineyard plot, and is 
denominated by a borrowed name, it is an eafy mat- 
ter to make it pafs for fuch a wine as is defired, whe- 
ther it be fold as it is, or whether it be mingled with 
others of a higher colour. But this mixture muft be 
made in fuch a manner, that the quantity of the gray 
Auvernat be not abforbed by the red that is mixed 
with it. 
Of mah ing wines in Orleans. 
The Grapes being cut, and carried from the vine- 
yard to the prefs, they tread them either in a fcuttle, 
which they place there, or in a vat, when the gather- 
ing of the vintage is finffhed ; or, in fine, they caft 
them into a trough of a wine prefs to be bruifed. 
Alfo fometimes they carry them direflly to the prefs - s 
but this is when they would make wine fit for pre- 
fent drinking, and that it is not fermented in the vat 
at all. 
Thofe who make ufe of a fcuttle to bruife their Grapes, 
cannot pofiibly tread the Grapes well, or at leaft they 
will be a long time in doing it, and have a great deal 
more trouble, in that they are obliged to raife up, with 
all their ftrength, the puncheons in which they tread 
the Grapes, to caft them into the vat with the marc, 
in order to work it all together. 
The manner of bruifing the Grapes in the vat when 
it is filled, is much worfe than the firft ; in that, 
notwithftanding all the precaution that can be taken, 
and whatever time is allowed to endeavour to do 
this work well, it is abfolutely impofllble it fhould 
fucceed ; for when the wine has been tunned as much 
as it ought, and they have put it.on the prefs with 
its marc, there will be a part of the Grapes that 
have not been half bruifed, and this caufes the marc 
to yield lefs wine, and there is not all the colour that 
it might have ; and therefore the Grapes ought never 
to be bruifed this way, when it can bedone ptherwife. 
But if this is a lols to the citizens, not to draw from 
the marc all the wine which it ought to yield, if all 
the Grapes had been well bruifed, yet it affords an 
advantage to the vigneron, in that his drink will be 
fo much the better. 
As there is an inconvenience in treading the Grapes, 
either in a fcuttle, or a vat, as I (hall make it appear, 
it will be better to make ufe of a wine prefs ; that is, 
without contradiflion, the beft way to bruife the 
Grapes. 
And befides, a wine prefs will ferve for four bafkets, 
when the other will not ferve for two, if they make 
ufe of a fcuttle ; for according to the meafure that 
the Grapes are bruifed in the wine prefs, the wine 
falling into the vat, does not rife above the Grape ; 
by which it may be more eafily known, when the 
Grapes have been well or ill trod before the marc is 
turned into the vat ; or it is a great deal more eafy to 
pufh it with the foot, when the trap door of the trough 
is lifted up, than to lift up the whole with bodily 
ftrength, as they are obliged to do when they tread 
in a fcuttle. 
The trough of the prefs ought to be fet in a kind of 
litter, and placed upon, or over the vat ; but when 
the covering of the ftrudure, where the prefs is, is 
low, it muft be placed over the middle of the prefs 
without a litter ; then there will be a little more trou- 
ble, becaufe it muft be emptied into the vat with a 
bucket or fcuttle ; but this is no great matter, there 
are hands enough to do this work. 
The Grapes having been trodden as before, the marc 
may be thrown into the vat, either with the Grape 
and 
