VI i 
There mu ft alfo be a veflel called gueulebee to empty 
thefe veiTels in as they fill, and it Ihould be covered 
with a thick double linen cloth, and doled or fattened 
all round about with a hoop to hinder the wine from 
growing flat. 
The lee defcends by little and little to the bottom of 
the calks, where it is joined with the lcuni which 
there falls together, and is incorporated with it. 
Some days after, the wine being grown clear, they 
empty the veflel, and the lee remains at the bottom. 
This wine may be put into a veflel by itfelf, without 
mixing with the wine, which is in the calks out of 
which it came. Some fay this collected wine is the 
more fine and ftrong, and others fay to the contrary ; 
but they may fay what they will, for it is always true 
that this wine is very good, provided it has been kept 
very clofe in the veflel where it was collected. 
And I believe that one might, without any fcruple, 
make ufe of it for filling the wine; but as to this, you 
need not conlult either the merchants or the vigne- 
rons, fince the one has not judgment or fincerity 
enough, and the other are too much interefted ; and 
I fpeak with a knowledge of the matter, founded on 
the experience I have had many times, and without 
any intereft but that of the public. 
Thofe who, from a covetous temper, will not be at 
the charge of procuring thefe gutters and veflels to 
receive the wine of the calks while they are boiling, 
have no flcill in it •, for the wine, which they would 
fave by this means, would make amends entirely the 
firft year for the expence they would be at in procur- 
ing them. 
Others, that are afraid that they fhall not fell their 
wine, fay that the merchants have always an opinion 
in favour of that wine, of which the two Aides of the 
bung of each calk are filled with fcum as far as the 
firft bands or circles, and that they have a quite con- 
trary opinion of thofe where it does not appear. 
It is true that formerly they did mind this, and their 
opinion might be well grounded, becaufe they never 
made ufe of thefe gutters ; but at this time their opi- 
nion is altered, for they are perfuaded that thefe gut- 
ters being in ufe, a calk may have call: out all the fcum, 
without its appearing at the Aides of the bung, be- 
caufe it falls into thefe veflels that are fet to receive 
it, and likewife that all the wine that is there is well 
mixed. 
Befides, it is an eafy matter for a merchant to know 
if there be much lee in the calk, for he needs only to 
pierce it into the lee, that is to fay, at the bottom, 
about two fingers of the notch of the calk where the 
head pieces come in. 
The wine having call: out all its fcum, it will be pro- 
per to tafte all the calks into which it has been put ; 
to the end that, if any one be found that has a bad 
relifh, thofe who have purchafed them may be apprifed 
of it, that they may put all the bad ones to their own 
account. 
Some fay, that St. Martin’s day being pafied, you 
cannot oblige the merchant?, who have purchafed the 
wine, to take that again which has been fpoiled in the 
calks, becaufe they fay it is the more difficult to re- 
medy it. Others pretend that the merchants are an- 
fwerable three months after the calks have been filled, 
provided they have not been removed from olf the 
ft il lings. 
When the wine has done boiling, it muft be covered 
with the largeft fide of the bung to hinder it from 
evaporating ; and eight or ten days afterwards it muft 
be filled full, and bunged up. 
Some make ufe of bungs about half a foot long, be- 
caufe they can take them out without daubing the 
calks with the fcum; but I am of opinion that broad 
bungs are better, and to make two holes on the fide, 
the one about the bignefs of a little faucet, the other 
about the bignefs of one’s little finger, that a pewter 
funnel may be put in, having in it a piece of pewter 
foldered about two inches frotn the end, the holes 
of which may be as big again as thofe of a tobacco 
grater ; to the end that, when one ufes it to fill the 
V I T 
calks, neither ftone, nor fkin, nor kernels, nor lee, 
may pafs. The great hole ferves for the putting in 
of a funnel, and the other to give vent for the calks 
during the time the wine is pouring in them. 
The little hole ought to be made at the time that the 
calks are bored, to put in the wine with the great 
wooden funnel; for if the locket exa&ly fills the bung 
hole, the calk would fill very fiowly* if it had not 
vent given it by the little hole. 
When it is done after this manner, the tuns are not 
daubed with the fcum. It is not difturbed, as is done 
in ftriking to beat in the bung, and the wine will have 
lets vent. 
You muft be fure to fill the wine every fifteen day af- 
ter it has been bunged, until towards St. Andrew’s 
day •, you are not to meddle with it any longer, till 
after the leverity of the winter is over, which com- 
monly happens towards the middle of February, be- 
caufe the froft may make it fwell. 
The Auvernat is not the only red wine that we have in 
this vineyard plot ; there are alfo other wines made, 
that have the fame colour, but are of a different 
quality. 
There is, for example, the Bon Lignage, or the 
good wine, and that which is made of all forts of 
Grapes. As to the firft, , it is made of the red Au- 
vernat, theTeint, the Gray, the White, the tender 
Samoireau, the Melier* and all the bell forts of red 
Grapes. 
The feeond is compofed of all forts of Grapes, good 
and bad, but more of the latter than the former ; 
whence it is eafy to be comprehended, why the one 
has lefs of the quality than the other. And as this 
feeond is generally fpent in the country, they make it 
all manner of ways, either fit for prefent drinking 
or firm, or hard, according to the occafion they have 
for it, and the quantity they are to provide. As to 
the other, they do not fail to make it, and often fend 
it to Paris. 
All thefe forts of Grapes are not gathered with the 
fame care as the red Auvernat, which cannot bear 
the water, neverthelefs the wine is the better, when 
the Grapes, with which it is made, are cut in a fea- 
fon that is rather hot and dry than cold and moift. 
We have, in fame places of this vineyard plot, three 
forts of red wines, bearing the fame name, which, ne- 
verthelefs, they diftinguiffi the one from the other. 
There is the tender Samoireau, the hard, and the 
Fourchu, which have all three different qualities. 
The tender Samoireau does very well in the lands of 
the Olivet, St. Meftnin, and Clery, where it is more 
plentiful than any where cife. They make of it a par- 
ticular wine which will keep a long time, provided it 
have no mixture, and that they give it but little of 
the vat ; this renders it firm, and prevents it from 
growing ropy. 
This Grape may be mixed with the red Amrornat, be- 
caufe they both ripen at the fame time. The Sarnoi- 
reau gives the colour to the Auvernat ; it fuftains it, 
and cattles it to keep a long time ; but you muft put 
but a fmall quantity, for fear of altering or entirely 
■ abforbing the quality of the Auvernat, which after it 
has loft, it alfo lofes its name, and is no more regard- 
ed, but as a good Vin de Lignage, or one compofed 
of all forts of Grapes, which is vulgarly calledVip-- 
neron Auvernat, very different from that of the citi- 
zens, which is in a manner pure Auvernat. When 
one would render this Vin de Lignage yet better, he 
may put to it a fourth part of good Melier. 
The hard Samoireau is a little higher coloured than 
the tender. When it has but its proper degree of the 
vat, they may mix one or two puncheons of white 
and a little lefs, when they tun it ; they fhoukl alfo* 
when it may be done, take a Melier of a better kind* 
for this wine has not much fire. When it is pure* 
and it has pafied the year, that quality diminifheth \ 
it is then proper to make ufe of rapes, nor of chips 
or fhavings, but Qi ^_oin, without putting Grapes to 
it, as forne do, aQF that renders it hard and difasreea- 
ble to drink, 
It 
