356 
Overland Journey to India. 
[Nor. 
nearly a month’s detention by the Prince 19 , who pretended that he would recover 
our property, we took a second leave of the town, and travelled across the 
Elborz mountains to Shahrud Bostan, where the pilgrims for Meshid assemble. 
We joined a party of 600 pilgrims, (Persians, from all parts of Iran, and Arabs,) 
and by the route of Subzawar and Neshapore travelled in great fear of the luik 
mans who infest the road, to the holy city. The whole distance is about 27.) miles, 
160 of which to the large town of Subzawar are through a barren country, 
and the three first marches are 40, 45, and 22 miles, with no water between them. 
The country gradually improves to Neshapore, which is a very flout isliinjj 
city in an extensive closely cultivated valley. Hence, tor 28 miles the roa 
goes through a plain well-cultivated country, to the foot of theElboiz moun 
tains, which you cross by a tremendous cOtul, and travel 25 miles to the city of 
the sacred Imam Reza 20 , chiefly through fine gardens, which supply the cit\ with 
every kind of fruit, amid which a re* built small villages, and the countiy seats of 
the rich. 
The holy city of Meshid is large, irregular, and dirty, yet it is a city worth seein-, 
for in the centre of it are some splendid edifices raised in honor of the s,ul >* 
Imdm Reza, and pilgrims from every part of the eastern world assemble ther e, 1(^0, 00 
souls yearly. The fixed population may amount to that number, and the gi eater 
part of these are rogues, who only take thought how to make the most of t it 
pilgrims who visit the shrine ; from the high priest to the seller of bread, ah h-i' e 
the same end, and not content with the stranger’s money, those in office about t r 
saint appropriate to themselves the very dues for keeping his temple in good re 
pair. Thus a fine stone canal which ran through the city and the great squate, 
was drv, because the motwali had turned the water off upon his own melon 
grounds. Meshid, from the time of Nadir Shah, has seen strange vicissitudes, 
descendants of that monarch are still there, though unnoticed and in poverty. 1"° 
years before we visited it, Mohamed Khan Karat of Turbat, bad expelled Hosse^ 
Khan, the Shah’s sirdar, by stratagem ; and nominating himself Lord of Mesldd, ‘ 
a heavy contribution upon the inhabitants. Shortly before our arrival the c no ^ 
Keldt, in concert with the Tfirkmdns, had the city in close blockade till he wash ^ 
and though a son of the Shah is nominally governor there, he finds it nece • ^ 
be allied with some of the chiefs against the others. These chiefs are a tiubulen^^ 
and preserve pretty equally the balance of power; one who shews a wish to m*> 1 ^ 
self much stronger than his neighbours, is sure to be assailed by them * n c ^ ^ 
We were at Meshid from 28th June to 13th September. During that \ierw ^ 
average heat of the thermometer in the shade at the hottest time of the 1 
89° ; once the thermometer rose to 98°, and was never below 76°. In 
the nights began to be very cold. Every necessary of lde is cheap an 1 
here ; the bazars are filled with the choicest fruits ot every desci iptio > ^ ^ 
are within the means of the poorest. During the whole time of our - 
received no letter from our friends, nor could we get money for bills-- Ar 
sent from IlerAt by King Ivamran 21 to co-operate with the troops of 
chief against the Turkmans, was on its return from Meshid; and we bemg^ ^ {m 
of travelling so dangerous a road in safe company, the Sved redoubled » s 
19 We learned that this youth was concerned in the outrage practised iipoi 
had ordered all «ur books, instruments, &c. to be brought to him. ^ ^[dd. 
20 Fraser has written minute, and very accurate accounts of the city o * ^ eC p 
21 Son of Shah Mahmud, and heir to the Aftghan monarchy, though ie 
him from his throne. 
