190 On the Cultivation of the Vine, 
on them by the coolness of the nights : this precept^ 
though generally true, cannot be universally applied ; for 
in Champagne the vintagers collect the grapes before 
sunrise, and suspend their labours towards nine in the 
morning, unless the fogs occasion humidity throughout 
the whole day ; it is only by this care that they obtain 
white and brisk wines. It is well known in Champagne, 
that twenty-five casks of wine are obtained instead of 
twenty-four, when the vintagers labour during the conti- 
nuance of the dew ; and twenty- six during the fog. This 
process is every where useful when wines exceedingly 
white and brisk are required. Except in the above cases 
the grapes ought not to be cut until the sun has dispersed 
all the moisture from their surface. 
But some precautions are necessary to ascertain the 
period most proper for the vintage, and some must be ob- 
served in regard to the mode of operation. An intelli- 
gent agriculturist will not commit the care of cutting the 
grapes to inexpert mercenaries : as this part of the la- 
bour is not the least important, we shall here give a few 
observations on it. 
1st, A sufficient number of vintagers ought to be en- 
gaged that the vat may be filled in one day : this is the 
only method of obtaining an equal fermentation. 
£d, Women on the spot should be preferred; and 
none ought to be employed but those who have become 
expert in this kind of labour. 
3d, The labourers ought to be under the superintend- 
ance of a strict and intelligent overseer. 
4th, They ought to be prohibited from eating the 
grapes, both to prevent crusts of bread and other food 
from being mixed with the juice, and to preserve for the 
press the ripest and most saccharine grapes. 
5th, The tails of the grapes ought to be cut very short, 
and the operation ought to be performed with a pair of 
