On the Cultivation of the Vine , 
this operation is performed every day for the first month? 
every four days during the second, and every eight till it 
is drawn off. This is the method practised in regard to 
the delicious wines of the Hermitage. 
In Champagne, the gray wines are suffered to ferment 
in the ca^ks ten or twelve days; and when they cease 
working up, the casks are closed by means of the bung, 
leaving a small vent-hole at one side of it. This vent- 
hole is closed eight or ten days after with a wooden peg, 
which may be taken out at pleasure. When the casks 
have been closed, fresh wine must be poured in through 
the vent-hole, every week for twenty-five days ; then 
every two months as long as the wine remains in the cel- 
lar. When the wines have not sufficient body, and are 
too green, which is the case when the season has been 
damp and cold ; or if they are too luscious, which is the 
case when the season has been too dry and warm, the 
casks are rolled five or six times twenty-five days after 
the wine has been made, to mix well the lees ; and this 
operation is repeated every eight days during a month : 
by these means the wine is improved. 
The fermentation of the wines of Champagne destined 
to be brisk is continued very long : it is believed that 
wine can constantly be brisk, provided it be put into 
bottles between the time of the vintage till the month of 
May ; and that, the nearer to the time of the vintage, the 
better it foams. We are assured also that it always foams 
if put into bottles between the 10th and 14th of March. 
Wine never begins to foam till six weeks after it has been 
put into bottles. Mountain wine foams better than Cham- 
pagne : when wine is put into flasks between June and 
July it foams little, and not at all if bottled in October or 
November, after the vintage. 
In Burgundy, w hen the fermentation in the cask has 
slackened, the casks are closed, and a small hole is made, 
