306 Cookery . 
political economy, and even in tactics, are connected with and de- 
pendent upon the science of cookery ; so that I shall gratify you i 
greatly some time -or other, by the depth of my researches on this 
subject; and you will not have to tax me with converting your 
Emporium into an Almanac des Gourmands-. I would not say it 
for the world unless to yourself, but I greatly fear, my good friend, 
you will not make the Emporium either so pleasant or so popular^ 
as that very lively publication. Some of your grave sober people 
may be shocked at such an attempt, and think it beneath the dignity 
of a serious work to entertain such disquisitions ; but that man 
has lived to little purpose in the world, who does not know, that, 
•for the most part, the high road to the heart is through the sto- 
mach. Look at the practice of the old country— Where is the 
business of the nation transacted ? In the house of Lords, or of 
Commons? No: but at Cabinet-dinners. Can any patriotic mea- 
sure be adopted that is not ushered in by a public entertainment ? 
Does not the tide of public virtue flow strong in proportion to the 
oceans of port the company pour down? And with us, how quick- 
ly do we swallow the sober 16 th bumper to the American fair, 
that we may shine out in patriotic volunteers ? Look at all your 
charitable corporations— do the governors and directors of your 
hospitals and infirmaries in and about London, ever attempt a pub- 
lic subscription but at a dinner-meeting of the subscribers and 
their friends ? It is true, the dinner is usually ushered in with a 
charity sermon by some dignified church -man, and voluntary with 
a presto movement, by some noted organist, but the contemplation 
of what is to come, the picture of the table in the mind’s eye for 
an hour before hand, is an excellent stimulus, not only to the appe- 
tite for food, but the disposition for charity : nor does the reverend 
Dignitary ever refuse to grace the good things provided on such 
a laudable occasion. And this is right. 
For my own part, I profess myself in direct opposition to all the 
principles and practices of anchorites and ascetics. I hold, that 
all wilful contempt and neglect of the bounties of nature — all ob- 
stinate refusal of gratifications that can be safely, conveniently, 
and innocently enjoyed, has in it something approaching to a sin of 
omission : it is a proud rejection of the means of happiness offered 
to us by the Creator of the universe ; especially as the chearful 
use without abuse, even of convivial pleasure, has been repeatedly 
sanctioned by authority, which it suffices barely to hint at with be- 
coming reverence. 
