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COOKERY. 
Cum labor extuderit fastidia, siccus, inams? 
Spenie cibum vilem : nisi Hymettia niella Falcrno 
Ne biberis diluta. Foris est Promus; et atrum 
Defendens pisces hiemat mare ; cum sale panis 
Latrantem stomachum beneleniet. Unde putas aut 
Qiii partum ? Non in caro nidore voluptas 
Summa, sed in te ipso est, Tu pulmentaria quaere 
Sudando. Pinguem vitiis, albumque, nec ostrea 
Nec scarus, aut poterit peregrina juvare Lagois. 
Hor» St at, 2. 
THE art of cookery, is or ought to be employed for the pur- 
pose of rendering human food, 1st, more digestible. 2dly, more 
palatable. 3dly, to extract the greatest quantity of nutriment 
from a given quantity of food. 4thly, to ascertain what articles 
of food best combine the qualities of cheapness, pleasantness, 
wholesomeness, nutrition, and easy cookery. Under this view 
of the subject I shall offer to your consideration, my good 
friend, in the first place, what occurs to me on the Economy of 
cookery, and the principles that belong to the Culina Pauperum^ 
and perhaps we may strike out something that even the rich may 
not despise. Something like this has been done by the Pharma- 
copseia Pauperum* of the Pritish medical school, which under 
the notion of killing or curing the poor at a trifling expence, has 
introduced many valuable remedies. The use of the cold bath 
so much more extensively than heretofore, the use of PowleFs 
ague drop, and the substitution of oak bark and gentian for the 
Jesuit’s bark, are among the truly valuable improvements. 
You will say the poor do not read the Emporium : neither do 
they read Horace or Count Rumford : though I do almost think 
they would be almost as well employed in studying Rumford’s 
essays on cookery, or Barlow’s poem on hasty pudding, as Bar- 
low’s advice to the privileged orders, or his Conspiracy of Kings. 
But improvements in the condition of the poor, must be derived 
from knowledge communicated by those who are not poor. The 
poor have no time to think for themselves ; unluckily the course 
human affairs requires (less indeed in this country than else<» 
* I do not know of any regular Pharmacopoeia under that na3ne ; but tbere 
ts such a system in practice. 
