Cookery . 323 
purpose, abound there. In England their use is comparatively 
confined to coin, 
1 Ithly. Why are the English book-binders better than the 
French ? 
The English consume more meat, or rather waste more meat 
than the French. They kill more calves and sheep in propor- 
tion. Hence the materials of binding are cheaper. Also, because 
England is superior as a grazing country. 
12thly. Why do the French print books cheaper? or rather 
sell them cheaper ? 
Because the use and wear and tear of linen is much greater 
in France than in England; particularly at dinner. In the latter 
country, they use much more cotton and woollen. Our napkins 
and doyleys are generally, and our table cloths frequently of cot- 
ton, in America, I believe, as well as in England. 
I promised to assign my reasons for not dwelling upon autho- 
rities in support of the importance of eating and drinking and the 
science which puts them under the guidance of health and pru- 
dence, as well as pleasure. In truth I found the materials so ac- 
cumulated on my hands, that I am obliged to give up my design 
in compassion to my readers. After turning over Horace and 
Juvenal,* and the lives of Vetellius and Helio (or Ela) gabulus, 
* In looking through Horace and Juvenal, I find the following articles 
introduced at a Roman table. 
Gobeo the Gudgeon, came in the first course. 
Murcenci : the Lamprey, served up with Shrimp sauce, The Lamprey is 
not uncommon in Philadelphia, and is excellent, though neglected. 
Anguilla : the Eel : a fish not much thought of: but if Elagabalus who 
first introduced the oyster pie, had tried an eel-pie, well seasoned, he would 
have found it eatable. 
Rhombus : the Turbot : the first of all fish : certainly superior to the 
Sheep’s head ; when served up with lobster or shrimp sa'toce after the main 
ner of the ancients. It is eaten, I understand, at Boston ; which I shall note 
in my Gastronomic chart. I am not well acquainted with John Dory. Next 
to this, is 
Solea : the Sole, not common here. 
Passer .* the Fluke or Flounder. 
Mulhis - the Barbel : concerning the Barbel, and the observations there- 
on of Plutarch and Gesner and Gasius, see Hawkin’ s Complete Angler, one of 
the most entertaining books in the language. 
Silurus the Shad. The salted Shad are peculiar to the middle states of 
America. I have eaten Shad in England, but not good. They do not under- 
stand relishes in England. 
Scams , the Sear. 
Accipemer , the Sturgeon : the pickled Roe is the Caveat 
