THE gardeners' AND NATURALISTS' CALENDAR TOR FEBRUARY. 
prune, and ti-ain creepers on rafters and trellises ; and 
where the plants in borders require it, remove the old, 
and replenish with new soU. 
Mower Forcwg-honse. — As fast as the blooming 
plants are removed to the conservatory, introduce fi-esh 
ones from the reserve-pits, such as Indian and American 
Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Lilacs, Roses, &o,, placing 
them at the cool end of the house, and removing them 
forward as space can be had. Introduce also, for suc- 
cession, Hyacinths, Narcissus, Tidips, and other bulbs ; 
water them freely when they begin to gi-ow, and take 
care more especially of the bulbs that they never know 
the want of water. Maintain a temperatm-e of from 
55 to 65 degrees, rising 10 or 15 degrees with sun- 
heat; but, on very cold nights, a temperature of SO 
degrees will be sufficient. Syringe morning and even- 
ing with tepid water, and keep a sharp look out for, 
and destroy, insects of every kind. 
Reserve-pit. — All plants intended for early forcing 
should be under cover somewhere, and must be pro- , 
tected from frost as much as possible. American plants, 
Roses, &c., may he placed under the greenhouse stage, 
or even an open shed will be preferable to full exposure. 
If part of the pit can he spared, fill it with leaves, tan, 
or hot dung, and introduce Moss, and some of the finer 
kinds of Bom-bon, Tea, and Hybrid China Roses ; also 
a few plants of Smith's forcing and Anna Boleyn Pink. 
A few pots of LUy of the Valley may also be started 
very gradually ; and Cyclamens will also bear a little 
forcing. The temperature of this pit should not exceed 
40 to 45 degrees, by artificial means ; but it may rise 
to 55 or 60 degrees, in bright simshine. Syringe daily 
in the morning. Keep a sharp look out for insects. 
A. 
Orchid Souse. — The most important point to attend 
to in this bouse, at this season, is, to avoid all excite- 
ment ; and, to this end, keep the atmosphere by day 
from 60 to 65 degrees, and by night from 50 to 55 de- 
grees. Where there is a second house, it mightrange from 
7 to 10 degrees lower, providing the plants have been 
properly selected, are chiefly of the Mexican species, 
and are in a dormant state. For the purpose of retard- 
ing the blooming of some of the finer kinds of Dendro- 
hiums, and many other fine OrchideiE, such a house is 
indispensable ; and, if their growth is thoroughly ma- 
tm-ed, no fear need be entertained of their sustaining any 
inim-y. What can be more desii'able than to retard, or, 
where there are a number of plants, prolong the season 
of blooming of such magnificent things as the Dendro- 
biums ? Let such plants enjoy as strong light as 
possible, but no sudden or bright sunshine. Give 
neither water nor steam ; avoid cold draughts of air ; 
and keep the plants in as torpid a state as possible. 
Plants which are making growth, must he placed in good 
quarters where they can be duly attended to. Water 
such only as are growing, but give no moistm-o overhead 
at present, neither raise moisture from any heated sur- 
face. Endeavour to keep the atmosphere fresh, agreeable, 
and healthy, by spi'inlding the floor, wall, tables, &c., 
once or twice a day. Concentrate the floral beauty of 
the house, by arranging the blooming plants in groups, 
where they can be readily examined and enjoyed. Wash 
the plants carefully mth a sponge, and, if' necessary 
(before they expand), the flowers also. Should insects 
obtrude themselves, wage a war of extermination against 
them at every point, and never rest until the enemy is 
completely routed, and the field is clear to yourself. 
Plant Stove. — Let the temperature of this house 
range from 50 to 60 degi'ees, by fire-heat, rising a 
few degrees with air when the sun shines. Give air 
with care daily, if possible, but avoid cold currents near 
growing plants. Avoid imdue excitement for the pre- 
sent, but keep a healthy growing atmosphere, as, towards fe 
the end of the month, most plants wiU begin to move a 
little. Plants of Stephanotis, Allamanda, Dipladenia, 
Rondeletia, Clerodendi'on, Manettia, and others of simi- 
lar habit may be pruned and repotted, removing a part 
of the old soil from the roots, and replacing it with a 
compost of good turfy loam and peat, mixed with a little 
leaf-mould, broken charcoal, and some silver sand. 
Start a few Gloxineas, Gcsneras, and Achimenes, es- 
pecially such as may show signs of early growth, using 
the same compost, and some thoroughly decomposed 
horse-dung. Water spai'ingly rmtil the plants begin to 
grow freely. Avail yom-self of every leisure moment to 
destroy insects and clean the plants. 
Routine. — Prepare pots, crocks, charcoal, soil, sand, 
&c., preparatory to the busy season, which is at hand ; 
and, for the Orchids, plenty of tm-fy peat and loam, leaf- 
mould, sphagmmi moss, potsherds broken small, and 
lumps of charcoal of various sizes. These should al- 
ways he ready ; as should also blocks and baskets of 
various sizes, made from the most durable kinds of 
wood, such as the various kinds of Cratasgus, Quercus, 
Robinia, Ilex, Taxus, Gleditschia, and Cedrus, all of 
which the plants like, and which should be ready at all 
times, so that the plants, when they reqiure it, can be 
shifted without delay. Next month we shall have 
something to say about potting Orchid, &c, 
J. G. 
GREENHOUSE HARD-WOODED PLANTS. 
At the beginning of this month, no time should be 
lost in forwarding the diSerent operations as much as 
possible, for in a short time there ^vill be so much to do 
that we shall hardly know what to set about first. Peat 
being the soil chiefly used for gi'eenbouse plants, should 
he prepared for use in large quantities ; also some of the 
best loam. Attend regularly to watering, and, if pos- 
sible, use the water of the same temperature as the 
house. Air should be admitted fi-eely when the weather 
is mild, but he careful to exclude cold drying winds. A 
night temperatiu-e of about 40 degrees — not more — in 
frosty weather, is quite sufficient, and always damp the 
floors and shelves after fires. 
Croxoea saligna, if stopped in, and shifted into some 
good peat and sand, and put into the stove or forcing- 
house, will commence blooming about June, when, if 
placed in the greenhouse, it will continue to flower 
finely all the autumn. 
Boronias of all sorts will make fine plants with the 
same treatment, only move them into the greenhouse 
about the end of April, and stop them occasionally dur- 
ing the season of gTOwth. 
Solhja linearis^ (the best variety,) should be shifted 
in this month. Allow the shoots to grow as they will 
till April, when you can train them into any form you 
Ijlease. 
Kalosantlics. — The difiFerent varieties should now be 
shifted, using a light rich soil ; let it be rather rough 
for large plants. Those not wanted to flower this season 
may be stopped in, and wUl make excellent specimens 
for another year. 
Astclma eximia generally requires a shift at this 
season ; it should be potted in peat and sand, and placed 
in a dry part of the house, in order to preserve the 
foliage from damp. 
Amicus, of the best sorts, will grow rapidly if shifted 
liberally, and placed in a warm and moist part of the 
stove or forcing-house. These plants delight in good 
strong fibrous peat, with a little loam and plenty of 
sand. Tender-rooted varieties, such as Lateritia, Ex- 
quisita, and a few others, do best gxafted, using Phoe- 
G 
