THE GAEDENEES' AND KAXUBALISTS' CALE^^)AE. FOE MAECH. 
other things of a Uke nature. Matu'andyas, Lophos- 
pennums, Calampelises, SoDyas, and Tropasolums may 
also be rooted as the others, with the addition of a bell- 
glass over them. TigTidias, Bouvardias, and the large 
sorts of Lobelias should be forced on, to get the roots of 
the two latter divided in time. 
Annuals. — Brachycome, Schizanthus, Schizopeta- 
lon, Scyphanthuse, Coboeas, Loasas, and Tropajolums, 
should be got forward in a hot-bed, where the heat 
is not powerful. CoUinsia, Nemophila, SiLene, Go- 
detia, and numerous hardy annuals may be sown out 
of doors at once. 
The following plants have been proved, and can bo 
highly recommended for the flower-garden ; — 
Verbena Anna, flesh-colour, green eye. 
Verbena Apollo, dark violet purple. 
Verbena Chauvieii, crimson and scarlet. 
Verbena Duchesse d'Aumale, pale blue. 
Verbena Emperor of China, velvety crimson. 
Verbena General Brea, dark crimson. 
Verbena Iphigenie, pale lilac, rosy centre. 
Verbena John Salter, scarlet orange, fine flower. 
Verbena Louis Napoleon Buonapaite, crimson. 
Verbena Gabrielle de Vandeava, carmine and rose. 
Verbena Magnificent, salmon-red. 
Verbena Morphee, blue, with a white centre. 
Verbena Kubens, red carmine. 
Petunia Alba Magna, large white. 
Petunia Semiduplex, rich crimson. 
Petunia Julia, rose, and striped with crimson. 
Petunia Elegantissima, dai-k rose pencilled. 
Tropasolum Smithii, orange yellow. 
Fuchsia Elegantissima, crimson and purple. 
Fuchsia Gem of the West, white and violet. 
Calceolaria Shankleyana, light brown. 
Pentstemon azureus, bluish purple. 
Scutellaria macrantha, bluish purple. 
Gaillardia splendidissima, yellow and brown. 
Lobelia grandiflora, marine blue, and white centre. 
ffinothera prostrata, golden yellow. J. C. 
Sose Garden. — Proceed with planting all hardy kinds 
as quickly as possible, and should there be no appcai'- 
auce of severe weather, the worked half-hardy kinds 
that have been taken up and protected during winter, 
may be planted out by the second week at the latest, as 
a few degrees of fi-ost will do them no harm. The 
spring beds, intended to be planted with Tea scented, 
and other half-hardy varieties, on their own roots, should 
have the soU frequently turned over; or, if the beds are 
now filled with bulbs, &c., that are to be taken up, 
some fresh soil should be prepared for the roses, by fre- 
quently turning it. If the hardy roses are not pruned, 
they should be done as early in the month as possible. 
"WTiere strong shoots are cut over, the covering of the 
surface with grafting-was prevents a veiy destruc- 
tive insect from laying its eggs in the pith, and, by ex- 
cluding the air, causes the wound to heal over much 
sooner ; for weak-growing roses this cannot be too 
highly recommended. Towards the end of this month, 
should the weather be open and sunny, a beetle will be 
very likely to be eating the buds; and, should the 
weather continue s unn y, it will feed on the bark after 
it has eaten the eyes. As it feeds chiefly at night, during 
dry weather, it is difficult to catch it while feeding ; for, 
upon the least unusual noise, it drops, as though dead, 
to the groimd. By carefully moving the soil aroimd the 
stem of the trees that are attacked, it may be found just 
\mder the surface, or, by laying some dry lumps of mould 
round the stem, with some pieces of tile on the top, the 
insects are sure to burrow among them. Plants that 
were budded last season, should now have their wild 
shoots cut back, leaving two eyes clear above where 
the buds were inserted. Cut off all wild buds about the 
stem, except the two above the bud, close enough to pre- 
vent others forming at the sides of those cut off; and 
examine the top of every stock to see if the pith has a 
little hole bored in it ; if it has, the top must be cut off, 
and a grub will be found a few inches from the top ; or 
the top of the stock may be covered with was. 
As the pruning is finished, take advantage of a dry 
day to stir up the ground between the plants ; a broad 
tined digging-spud or fork is the best implement for this 
purpose. Leave the surface rough, and let the frost and 
sun pulverize it. Take off the shoots of any sorts that 
are wanted for grafting, and lay them imder a north 
hedge, out of doors, to keep them as dormant as possible, 
for it may be the middle or end of Aprilbefore the stocks 
are ready. Grafting in-doors may be clone at any time. 
Proceed with potting as early in the month as the 
weather wiU permit, for next season's forcing, and get 
them plunged as soon as they are done, as it injures 
them very much if they stand about exposed to the 
weather. Li plunging, if no better provision is made 
for them, the plants would be benefited by being set on a 
half brick, or a flower-pot turned upside down ; as soon 
as they are plunged, some sticks should be bent over 
them, so as to cover them from heavy rains and unkind 
weather. The best varieties for very early forcing, are 
the Common and Prolific Moss, Lee's Crimson Perpetual, 
Common Cabbage, and Crested Provence, for flowering 
in March, the above sorts, with Spong's, and Unique 
Provence, any of the Hybrid Perpetuals, such as Bobin 
Hood, Louis Buonaparte, and Comtesse DuchateU ; in 
fact, any of this class that have firm petals, bright 
colours, and the most double flowers. 
Forcing House. — Continue to introduce fresh plants 
into the forcing house or pit, taking care to begin with 
a low temperature and plenty of air, at all favourable 
opportunities, and they must be set in a part of the 
house where they get the full beneflt of the sun when 
it shines. H. !M'M. 
Arloretum. — It is presumed that the planting of 
deciduous ti'ces in this department has been brought to 
a close; it only remains, therefore, to observe, that 
those operations, the object of which is an appearance 
of neatness, should be prosecuted. In planting the trees, 
and previous to laying down the turf, care must be 
taken to allow for the sinking of the soil ; indeed, it is 
better for the trees to be planted shallow enough to 
allow of sufficient soil being placed around the stems of 
single specimens, so as to leave a pei-manent gentie 
swell, which looks infinitely better than seeing them 
rising up, as it were, out of a hole, and is far better for 
the weU-doing of the trees. As in many, or, indeed, 
most cases, the planting of groups, or single specimens, 
of Coniferoiis plants, wOl be appropriately introduced 
into this department ; and as these kinds of plants are 
generally turned out of pots, when the season is a littie 
more advanced is a good time to plant them ; and the 
present is as good a time as any to prepare the places 
for their reception ; I do not hesitate to say, that 
in the well or ill performance of this operation will 
depend the futui-e welfare of the trees. However fa- 
vom'able the soil may be for the growth of Conifers, it 
is necessary that it be well broken up to a good depth 
by trenching ; and, whether for groups or single speci- 
mens, the spaces broken up shoidd be large. For a 
single plant, however small at the time of planting, I 
recommend a space of not less than eight feet diameter. 
Draining, where necessary, is veiy important ; and, if 
the sub-soil is bad, a portion of it should be removed, 
and fresh compost brought ; and every hole should have 
a couple or three cart-loads of compost more than is 
necessary to fill it to a level, so that the tree, when 
planted, may stand on a gentle eminence. These trees 
flourish best in a deep, rich loam ; but it is desii-able to 
mis some decayed leaves with that part of the compost 
immediately in contact with the roots. AVhen the time 
serves for planting, shake the whole of the soil from 
the roots, and gently disengage the fibres from each 
