1 
THE G.WRDENEKS' AND NATURALISTS' CALENDAH FOE JUNE. 
d 
and not yet in a bearing state, are in progress, pay par- I 
ticular attention to theii' leaves, and allow them for the 
present to make all the growth they can. "Water inside 
borders. Vines training in pots for next season's fruiting 
will want daily attention; stop them when they are 
two or three feet longer than the length you require for 
fi-uiting, stop the laterals, and allow the principal leaves 
full exposm-o to the light. If the pots are full of roots 
allow them manure water once or twice a week. 
J. S. 
Fii/s. — As soon as the first crop of ft-uit is cleared 
off, pay particular attention to the second crop, which 
may be lost at this stage by neglect. Give the borders 
a good watering, and to those in pots give plenty of 
licjuid manure. Syringe the foliage freely to keep 
doAvn the red spider, and maintain a moist atmosphere. 
Give plenty of air dm-ing the eaiiy part of the day, 
always shutting up early in the afternoon, and well 
wetting the borders, floors, &c. See that too many 
fruit are not left on for a second crop, and that the 
branches are not too crowded. 
Fcachcs. — When the frait is all taken off, the prin- 
cipal point to be attended to is the ripening of the wood 
— a very important one, as on it depends, in a great 
measm-e, the success or failui-e of the next season's crop 
of fruit. Not a single shoot more than will be required 
at the winter training should be retained ; and the 
trees should be well washed with a syi'inge or engine 
to cleanse ihe leaves from any filth, that may have 
collected on them during the ripening of the fruit. 
The ripening of the wood will entirely depend on the 
healthiness of the leaves, and on their duly and pro- 
perly performing theii- functions. "Whatever, there- 
fore, tends to impede the free action of leaves, tends 
also to diminish the ripening of the wood. It thus 
becomes of the utmost importance to keep the leaves 
in a healthy condition up to the time of their natural 
decay. Keep a moist atmosphere in houses where fruit 
is swelling ; water freely ; give air early, and abim- 
dantly in the forenoon ; shut up early in the afternoon, 
syringing the trees at the same time, and well wetting 
the borders. 
Strmvherries. — I have sometimes got a good crop of 
very late fruit, by planting out in a south border those 
plants which were forced very early. Those who wish 
for good plants for early forcing next season, should lay, 
in smaU pots, the fii'st runners that can be had. M. S. 
Cucumhi- Souse. — As the weather contiuues cold 
and unkind, you must not relax in due attention to 
the heat, air, and moisture. This is likely to prove an 
expensive spring in the forcing department. I am 
consuming as much firing at the present time, and have 
been, for the last fortnight, as I did in February, and it 
is difficult, with such continued fire-heat, to keep free 
from insects. Abundance of water sprinkled in eveiy 
part of the ho\ise frequently, and a rather low night 
temperatm-e, is the only preventive, coupled with 
healthy development of the plants. If any new kinds 
of Cucumbers are to be tried, with a view to the saving 
of seed, they must now be attended to, or there wUl 
not be time to give them a fair trial. Pay strict atten- 
tion, at least twice a week, to regulating the plants, 
and whenever there is a leaf that shows signs of bad 
health, remove it, as decaying leaves form the best har- 
bour for vermin. 
Dmiff Beds. — All previous directions must be attend- 
ed to ; keep the linings well made up, to keep a sweet 
growing heat. Earth up, and peg out the shoots of 
grooving plants. Surface old beds with fi-esh soil, for 
the double pui-pose of cleanliness, and to imigorate the 
old plants that have long been bearing fi-uit. In old 
beds that have been worked for some time with hot 
linings of dung, a good soaking with tepid water round 
269 W" 
i 
the back and front of the frame, wiU be a means of 
preventing the soil and dimg becoming di-y and burnt. 
Avoid over cropping, and keep the plants thin of foliage. 
The plants on the ridges will not require much atten- 
tion at present, except for air and water. If the nights 
are cold, a covering of mats will be of service. 
Melons. — Previous directions must be attended to. 
Keep the plants thin, give abundance of aii' on fine 
days, earth up growing crops as they advance, do not 
stop the plants, until they reach the sides of the pit or 
frame, for the less the plants are mutilated in their first 
stage of growth, the better, as they are at all times 
liable to canker. "When the fruit is set, and swelling, 
give liberal waterings with tepid water, but at all times 
avoid, as much as possible, wettmg that part of the stem 
near the seed leaves, where the shoots branch from, and 
if any canker appears, carefully scrape the loose part 
off with a knife, and apply hot lime to the wound, which 
wUl assist ia drying it up. If the plants are in a 
healthy condition, after the fruit is cut, by applying 
fresh linings, and soaking the beds with water they will 
start afresh into growth, and soon set another crop of 
fruit ; although not so fine as the first, it wiU be 
very serviceable when ripe. There is yet plenty of 
time to seeiure a fine crop of any of the most esteemed 
varieties of Melons, by sowing at the present time, 
where there is materials and convenience. I have cut 
excellent Melons in a hot water pit in October and 
November, by sowing in the middle of Jiuie, and grow- 
ing them upon brush-wood, such as old pea stakes &c., 
so as to keep the stems dry. W. T. 
FRUIT-GARDEN.— OUT-DOOR DEPART- 
MENT. 
Feach and Nectarine. — Continue to pay attention to 
stopping and laying in the shoots. Shoiild any of 
the leading shoots appear to be growing too -vigorously, 
stop them as soon as you perceive it, they wUl then 
throw out laterals. If this operation is not performed 
early in the season, the shoots do not get properly 
ripened. Partially thin the fruit if set too thickly, 
before stoning ; the final thinning should be left until 
after this process has taken place. "Water and mulch 
newly planted trees if not done before, and all the ti'ees 
should occasionally have a good washing with the 
engine, using only clear soft water ; unless red spider 
or green fly makes its appearance, when a little sulphur 
may be used with the water to destroy the former, and 
a little tobacco-water for the latter, In watering the 
roots of the trees let it be done liberally, so that it does 
not require doing frequently, and at the same time lay 
litter of some land, or lawn grass will do, to prevent 
evaporation, for when this takes place to any extent, it 
produces a degree of cold to the roots, which is prejudi- 
cial to them. 
Apricots. — Finally thin the fruit when the process 
of stoning has taken place. Stop vigorous shoots to 
cause them to throw out laterals, which wiU be of more 
moderate gro^vth. See that the trees do not want for 
water when the fruit is swelling off. The observations 
made above as regards watering, hold good in aU cases, 
whether for fruit-trees or vegetables. 
Cherry. — Net the trees as the fruit progresses to- 
wards ripening ; but before doing so, it is necessary to 
go carefully over them, and stop and lay in all the 
shoots that require it. Shoidd the trees be attacked by 
black fly, either cut off the ends of the shoots if very 
bad, or dip them in tobacco-water. It is generally only 
the ends of the shoots that are attacked. 
Tig. — Stop the shoots as recommended last month. 
Lay in the leaders, and those shoots that are required for 
fining up. Watering the roots with soap-suds will 
be found to greatly benefit the tree and fruit. 
h. 
