,^, e^^i 
306 THE CULTHKE AND PKOPERTIES OF THE TULIl'. 
I 
are the most valued ; nevertheless, Tulips propagate fast, and a flower worth twenty guineas while there 
are but half a-dozen in the world, becomes naturally cheaper as it becomes more plentiful. Florists, 
however, have, for many years previously to 1832, been sadly at a loss to know what constituted a good 
Tulip. Those who pretended to lay down the criterion of a good flower, went into very silly details, 
without any fixed principle to guide them, and this naturally led astray those who selected new 
varieties fi-om their seedlings ; they placed an artificial value on tilings scarcely worth cultivating, and 
they passed over, as useless, others with good general points. 
The properties of the Tulip, as explained by the old florists, were a mere tissue of contradictions 
and conflicting opinions, as we have shown before ; and if we are told we were not first to lay down 
" the properties of the Tulip," we were, at all events, the first to lay them down in such a manner that 
people could understand them — the fii'st to found them on distinct principles. We begin with form 
which we take to be the most essential in all improvements of flowers ; we have not had two or thi'ee 
favourite flowers before us, and endeavoured to mix up different qualities ; we know that a certain model 
would be perfect, if it could be attained, and we set up our standard fi-om that, simply contending 
that those which can come nearest, are the best. We say the form of the Tulip should be from one- 
third to one-half of a hollow ball, with the edge level, the petals setting close to look like one ; that 
the markings of all six petals should be alike. Strange as it may seem, other florists took the hint, 
and could write on the beauties of a spherical cup, some wanting a Httle more than half, others want- 
ing the ends of the petals rounding, " because it is the natm-e of the flowers ;" but until we set down 
the form at one-third to one-half of a hollow ball, people had to guess as to the proper form of a cup. 
However, as we shall conclude with the properties as we laid them down in 1832, and defended them 
at public meetings against the fanciful old florists, we shall here proceed to the cidtm-e. 
The perfection of soil for the culture of Tulips, would be the top three inches of a rich loamy pas- 
ture, with the turf in it laid up to rot, and cleared of the wire-worm, grub, and other insects, by 
repeated turnings and picking. The vegetable matter in it will bo sufiioient nourishment, without 
any other dressing. Select a spot for the bed, which should run north and south ; complete drainage 
is essential, but no quantity of rubbish, stones, or other matei'ial at the bottom, is of itself of the 
slightest advantage. It has been the practice with many florists to dig out a bed three or four feet 
deep, put ten or twelve inches of brick rubbish at the bottom, and to fancy that this drained the bed 
effectually, whereas, if the di'ainage water be not got rid of from the garden altogether, this open stufi' 
forms a receptacle for water that drains into it, and does more harm than good. We once saw this 
operation going on in a spirited florist's garden, and as his men were about throwing in the stuff' in 
which the bulbs were to be planted, we prevailed upon them to leave the filling till the morning, for 
we fancied we knew the nature of the soil ; the next morning exhibited the water over the brick 
rubbish, and the owner for the first time in his life saw that draining of this kind was not quite the 
same as draining in a pot, because there was no hole for the water to run away through. He did then 
what every body ought to do before attempting the cultivation of florist's flowers — drain the whole 
ground effectually. The bed may be dug out four feet wide, and two feet six inches deep, and be filled 
up with the soil intended for their growth. This may settle a few days, and be raked level to three 
inches above the path ; on this level the Tulips should be placed, and pressed in a little, then put soil on 
to three inches above the crowns of the bulbs, and, by raising the bed a little in the centre, the middle 
row will be covered four or five inches. Tidips arc planted six inches apart, seven reaching across the 
the bed, and any length required. The habit of growth settles the plan for planting ; those which 
grow fifteen to eighteen inches high occupy the outside rows, and the second fi-om both sides ; those 
which grow two feet to two feet six inches should be in the third and centre rows. When the bed is 
planted and covered, they may be left to the weather until they peep through the ground. Frost 
will not kUl a Tulip, but it will often check and partly blight a bloom, cause the colours to flush, the 
edges to be notched, and to be otherwise damaged, so that they should be covered at night and 
against frost, but not longer than is necessary, because covering draws them up weakly. The 
more air they have, the better they are. In February they will be through the ground, which 
should be stirred, and have the lumps broken, and laid close round all the stems. When the spikes 
begin to open, they form a receptacle for the wet, and nmst not, on any account, be reached by frost. 
When they show their colcm-s, a top-cloth must be provided, to be let down, that the sun may not 
reach them, but even this must be watched, that no more air may be kept off' than necessary. The 
cloth must only be let down enough to shade them, and a portion of one side is generally enough for this, 
and when there is no sun, on no account deprive them of light or au'. They would all be stronger and 
%j better coloui-ed if they were not shaded at all, but the bloom would be soon over, and sometimes a 
0S day's hot sun would totally spoil them ; whereas, by shadiag, a bed may be kept interesting for three 
