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THE ROSE GARDEN. 
rule, training his young wood exclusively on the upper side. We have ourselves also departed from 
the rule, but on the contrary obtain all our bearing wood from the under or lower side of them ; and 
we venture to recommend this, because in our opinion the tree is balanced better, and produces wood 
of more moderate growth, the sap always flowing with a vigour proportionate to the vertical direction 
of the branches. 
All who would have good Peach trees must pay groat attention to the disbudding process : this, 
with timely stopping and occasional curtailment of gross feeding roots, will nearly supersede the 
ordinary amputation practice. If the inquiry which we so often hear made — How should I cut my 
trees ? — were changed into, " How shall I prevent my trees from requiring so much pruning ?" cutting 
and maiming would be at a discount, and success more frequent both with amateurs and professional 
men. 
♦ 
THE EOSE GARDEN. 
By Ma. G. GLENNY, F.H.S. 
MAYING selected the best sorts of Roses for our purpose, whether that be for exhibition or as 
permanent ornaments to the garden, we will presume they are, as is usually the case, of one or 
two seasons' growth from the budding, and the roots more or less bruised and damaged at talcing up. 
Our first aim must be to cut off, with a sharp knife, all damaged ends and bruised portions; for, if we 
do not, the chances are that the damaged portions will decay and affect the whole plant. And now 
we come to the planting. Ordinary garden soil will produce the Rose large enough for garden 
ornament; but for exhibition, where the size of the blooms is more the object than number, two good 
spade-loads of rotten dung should be forked into the ground for each plant, and mixed with the soil a 
foot deep, and two feet in diameter ; the plant to be placed in the centre. As we will first speak 
of Standards, we ought to caution all young planters not to bury the roots too much ; let the collar of 
the plant, that is, that part which is immediately above the root, be even with the surface ; spread the 
fibres out all round, and tread the ground as you fill it in very solid ; drive a stake into the ground near 
enough to the stem to support it by tying, or by other fastenings,* and firmly enough to withstand 
winds. 
As to the season for planting, as soon as the leaf falls will do well, and, weather permitting, 
any time is good until the buds begin to swell ; after which every day makes it worse, or rather 
increases the risk — because it cannot be denied that plantations have been made very late and have 
yet succeeded well ; but there are many chances against them. Those who have to plant in poor 
ground should invariably dang it as recommended for show roses, and the most simple way of doing 
this is to dig out a hole a foot deep and two feet across, mix one or two spade-loads of rotten dung 
with the soil taken out, and return the mixture to the hole, where, as it will have been increased, it 
will form a mound. If this be done before the season of planting a few weeks, it will be so much the 
better. Look then to the root, for which you are to make room ; dig no deeper than is necessary to 
allow of just covering the top of the roots or collar, pressing all the well-bruised earth among the 
fibres perfectly solid. The ground that will grow a good Cabbage will not fail to grow a good Rose ; 
but the more rich the soil, the stronger the growth and the larger the flowers. It should, however, 
be remembered that the Briers on which most standard Roses are budded grow very strong in the 
midst of thorns and brambles, on banks and in places impoverished by other plants and weeds, which 
would choke every thing else, and that, when budded in their original locality, they will make large 
heads the first season. We remember to have heard a man accused of budding Briers in the woods 
and wastes, and taking them up at the end of the season, by which they sustained all the check after 
the head had grown, instead of before budding ; and, so far from denying it, he maintained it was the 
best plan. Now the Rose stock, or Brier, sustains so great a shock in consequence of the mutilation 
of the roots when first torn out of the ground where it had grown perhaps for years, that notwith- 
standing every pains may be taken, and the head taken off to reduce it to a single rod, it may die. It 
stands to reason, then, that if this mutilation takes place when there is no opportunity of compensating 
more than by the mere pruning of the worked growth, bad health, weakly growth, or death must 
inevitably follow. 
In pruning the Roses when newly planted, we are to take away as much as we can without 
injuring the form of the intended head. If there be only the one shoot from the bud, cut it down to 
• The Rose Girdle, a registered invention by an amateur Rose-grower, is the most complete thing yet attempted. A zinc hand 
goes round the stake and the Hose, and fastens with a nut and screw. The name of the Hose can be written on the band. 
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