1884.: 
Analyses of Books. 
229 
upon German researches, and everyone knows that the infusion 
known in Germany as “ Thee-wasser ” is exceedingly feeble. 
We find here due mention of tannic acid as one of the dangers 
of tea, especially for the poorer class of consumers. Anxious to 
extract anything of value from a modicum of tea, they allow it 
to “ simmer on the hob for an indefinite period, with the result 
that a highly astringent and unwholesome beverage is obtained. 
There can be no doubt that the habit of drinking excessive 
quantities of strong astringent tea is a not uncommon cause of 
that atonic dyspepsia which seems to be the rule rather than the 
exception among poor women of the class of sempstresses.” It 
is evident that the use of a solution of tannin along with albu- 
minous or gelatinous matters is a royal road to indigestion. 
The “ tea-dinner,” or “ high tea,” is a grievous mistake. 
Coffee, however, is the author’s main subject, being of the 
two articles the less understood in this country. He points out 
that it should never come in contadt with metal at all. It should 
be bought not merely unground, but raw, kept for use in a stop- 
pered glass bottle, roasted in an earthenware pipkin, pounded in 
a mortar with wooden pestles, and prepared in a stoneware pot. 
With the exception of the pounding in place of grinding — a pro- 
cess peculiar to Turkey — these are the rules followed on the 
Continent. Brillat-Saverin is here quoted as having made a 
careful experiment to test the comparative virtues of grinding 
and pounding. He carefully roasted a pound of good Mocha, 
and divided it into two halves, grinding the one and pounding 
the other. A jury of gourmets decided that the decoction made 
from the pounded portion was superior in flavour and aroma. 
We thoroughly agree with Dr. Poore in his repudiation of 
chicory. It was an evil hour when, at the instance of one of 
whom it has been said that he was, “ as touching the righteous- 
ness that is in red tape, blameless,” the sale of coffee mixed with 
chicory was officially sanctioned. But into this subjedt we can- 
not enter. It may be well to glance at the scandalous falsehood 
of “ Coffee as in France, a luxury unknown in England.” In 
France people buy their coffee unground, very generally un- 
roasted, and roast and grind every morning for the day’s con- 
sumption. Those who use chicory add it themselves in known 
proportions, and are not simple enough to buy chicory worth 
(say) 3 \d. per lb. at the price of coffee. 
This ledture contains instruction greatly needed by the British 
public, and we hope it will lead some of its readers at least to 
desist from the stupid practice of buying ground coffee. 
