>40 VALLEY OF BAIDAR. 
chap, manuscript, and they are generally written in 
j very beautiful characters. The children are 
early taught, not only to read, but to copy 
them. The size of the cap, or bonnet, is all 
that distinguishes the priests of the different 
villages from the rest of the community ; being 
made much larger for them, and rising to a 
greater height from the head. The horses of 
the country, although not equal to those of 
Circassia, are remarkable for their high breed, 
as well as for their beauty and swiftness : they 
are small and very sure footed, but rather 
stouter than Circassian horses, considered the 
fleetest and most beautiful race of coursers in 
the world. If travellers be provided with an 
order from the Governor of the district, fhe 
Tahlars are compelled to provide horses, lodging, 
and even provisions, gratis. We had this order; 
but we took no advantage of the privilege 
annexed to its possession ; a mode of conduct 
consistent with English customs and English 
opinions ; but diametrically opposite to those 
of Russia, where it is considered degrading to 
bestow a thought upon making any remunera- 
tion, unless it be a matter of compulsion. 
To avoid the intense heat of the middle of the 
day, we began our journey towards the coast 
on Tuesday the fifth of August, at five o’clock in 
