312 
RY THE ISTHMUS OF PEUECOP, 
CHAP. 
VIII. 
in all the maps of this country, it might be 
expected that a tolerable fortress would be 
It appears, even on the best tables, with the greater part of its impu- 
rities adhering, and consequently quite brown. Kibitkas, laden with 
this commodity, form a kind of caravau. They seldom go out of their 
way for a town or village, but perform long journeys ; the drivers only 
sheltered at night on the lee-side of their carriages, and stretched on 
the grass During the independence of the Crimea, (an old officer told 
me), these people were always armed, and travelled without fear of the 
Tahtars, drawing up their waggons every night in a circle, and keeping 
regular sentries. We here, with great regret, quitted the Crimea and 
its pleasi ug inhabitants: it was really like being turned out of Paradise, 
when we abandoned those beautiful mountains, and aga^n found our- 
selves in the vast green desert, which had before tired us so thoroughly; 
where we changed olives and cypresses, elcar water and fresh milk, for 
reeds, long grass, and the draiuings of marshes, only made not poisonous 
by being mixed with brandy; and when, instead of a clean carpet at 
night, and a supper of eggs, butter, honey, and sweetmeats, we returned 
to the seat of our carriage, and the remainder of our old cheese. 
* e Pallas has properly distinguished the two distinct races of Tahtars, 
the Nogavs and the mountaineers. These last, however, appeared to 
me to resemble in their persons the Turks and the Tahtars of Kostroma 
and Yaroslaf. They are a fair and handsome people, like the Tahtars 
in the north of Russ ; a, given to agriculture and commerce, and here, as 
well as there, decidedly different from the Nogays, or other Mongul 
tribes. The Nogays, however, in the Crimea, appear to have greatly 
improved their breed by intermarriages with the original iuhabitants, 
being much handsomer and taller than those to the north of the Golden 
Gate. The mountaineers have large bushy beards when old; the 
Tahtars of the Plain seldom possess more than a few thin hairs. The 
mountaineers are clumsy horsemen, in which they resemble the north- 
ern Tahtars. Their neighbours ride very boldly, and well. 1 bad an 
opportunity of seeing two Nogay shepherd-boys, w ho were galloping 
their horses near Koslof, and who shewed an agility and dexterity 
which were really surprising. While the horse was in lull speed, they 
sprung from their seats, stood upright on the saddle, leapt on the 
ground, aud again into the saddle; and threw their whips to some 
distance, and caught them up from the ground. What was more 
remarkable, we ascertained that they were merely shepherds, and that 
these 
