TO NICHOLAEF. 
313 
found here, to guard the passage of the Isthmus: chap. 
yet nothing can be imagined more wretched > — v — 
these accomplishments were not extraordinary. Both mountaineers 
and shepherds are amiable, gentle, and hospitable, except where they 
have been soured by their Russian masters. We never approached a 
village at night-fall, where we were not requested to lodge ; or in the 
day-time, without being inviteil to eat and drink : and, while they 
were thus attentive, they uniformly seemed careless about payment, 
even for the horses they furnished; never counting the money, and 
often offering to go away without it. They are steady in refusing 
Russian money; and it is necessary to procure a sufficient stock of 
usluks, paras, and sequins. This is not their only way of shewing 
their dislike to their new masters : at one village we were surprised at 
our scanty fare, and the reluctance with which every thing was fur- 
nished, till we learnt they had mistahen us fur Russian officers. On 
finding that we were foreigners, the eggs, melted butter, nardek, and 
bekmess, came in profusion. General Bardakof told us they were 
fond of talking politics : when we addressed them on this subject, they 
were reserved, and affected an ignorance greater than 1 thought likely 
or natural. Pallas complained of them as disaffected, and spoke much 
of their idleness. Yet their vineyards arc very neatly kept, and 
carefully watered ; and, what is hardly a sign of indolence, their 
houses, clothes, and persons, arc uniformly clean. But his account 
seemed to me hy no means sufficiently favourable. They are, I appre- 
hend, a healthy race; but we met one instance where a slight wound 
had, by neglect, become very painful and dangerous. On asking what 
remedies they had for diseases, they returned a remarkable answer : 
* tVe lay down the sick man on a bed; and, if it please God, he recovers. 
Allah Kerim /’ Their women are concealed, even more (the Duke of 
Richelieu said) than the wives of Turkish peasants ; and are greatly 
agitated and distressed if seen, for a moment, without a veil. Like 
the men, they have very fair and clear complexions, with dark eyes and 
hair, and aquiline noses. Among the men were some figures which 
Wight have served for models of a Hercules ; and the mountaineers 
have a very strong and nimble step in walking. An Imaum, who 
wears a green turban, and who is also generally the schoolmaster, is 
in every village. Not many, however, of the peasants could read or 
write ; and they seemed to pay but little attention to the regular hours 
of prayer.” Haber’s MS. Journal. 
